TD5toV8110 Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 21 hours ago, Stellaghost said: Oi...............lol Regards Stephen Oops! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 A peen in the butt…. The chassis suffered some weld distortion (or I didn’t check my measurements correctly, but it’s looking like the former). The rear of chassis has lifted a good 5-7mm. I have the feeling this was in two areas. Firstly, where the rear chassis cross member ties meet the top of chassis rail, and secondly where I’ve welded in a reinforcement angle on the top outside corners of the chassis rail between damper mounts and rear body outriggers. The reinforcement angles were to counteract some structural loss due to crevice corrosion where the original A Frame cross member end plates overlapped the outside of chassis rails. Those cross members are a notorious moisture trap at the chassis points and have unsealed areas which will absolutely lead to failure. Since mine was not terrible, still good form in the corners etc and the fact the factory internal reinforcement is spot welded in this area, I did not want to start cutting it up and patching it. These angles were also to take part of the battery trays, but I’ve had to can those due to physical limitations. Crevice corrosion cleaned up prior to zinc rich paint under the to be installed angle. Angle formed and welded in. Angle was also painted with zinc rich paint, and the divots in the chassis had polyurethane sealant blobbed in them to reduce atmosphere which leads to corrosion. Seal out the air (and moisture) and you’ll have no problems (even untreated steel will survive well) Even though these are longitudinal welds, they still shrink. And being on the top side of the chassis, making it a little shorter on the top only will curve the end up. So I figured I’d give peening a go. Traditionally, it’s done very quickly after welding while the weld is still hot. When the weld cools it shrinks and is left with tensile forces or stresses in it. Peening changes those to compressive and can balance it back out. Though, with multiple weld passes (2 on top of each other) and doing it cold, I think this is an exercise in a sore right forearm… I turned the end of a centre punch into a nice little 2mm radius on my belt linisher. And then it’s a matter of hammer hammer hammer (and hope no one reports me for noise ) Peening under way A little better perspective I don’t have enough information, either from LR documents or factory 110s measured, but from what I can figure it seems the body line front to back is the same angle as the flat section of chassis rail under the front of cab. If my chassis is 1.2° at this section it will mean my body line be 1.4°. Now 0.2° doesn’t sound much, especially by LR standards, but over the length from front bulkhead to rear tailgate, that’s a height change of about 9mm. And it means the front of front guards/wings have to drop 4mm. Again, it’s not much but I did have it right prior to these components. oh well, live and learn I guess… 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 Amazing work as usual! Have you considered an air hammer for the peening? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 (edited) No I hadn’t. An air hammer would be a reasonable addition to the shed as you can hammer, chisel and even set solid rivets with them. but for control and simplicity a hammer and punch is cheap and easy. Just need to have my weet-bix (no, not weetabix 😆) Edited June 29 by uninformed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Did the peening achieve the desired outcome? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 9 hours ago, bishbosh said: Did the peening achieve the desired outcome? I haven’t finished yet, I figured I’d give the neighbours ears a reprieve for Sunday 😆 All I managed was this boring video 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 Well I found it really interesting, I like the thought that goes into the detail. I don't watch many hour long videos, I was just giving it a quick look and got completely drawn in. Will continue to follow with interest. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 9 hours ago, Blanco said: Well I found it really interesting, I like the thought that goes into the detail. I don't watch many hour long videos, I was just giving it a quick look and got completely drawn in. Will continue to follow with interest. Thanks mate , much appreciated 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post uninformed Posted July 6 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 6 Not much to report here. I got the A frame cross member link mounts capped in, and the damper mounts to chassis web transfer plates installed. The later because I’d retained the factory tub load bearing mount at that location. I’m not using those, have removed them and continued the web transfer plating full width of damper mount. Weather has been horrible here cold (by our standards)and wet, and I’m blaming my average welding on the web transfer plates on that 😆 I honestly don’t know how you blokes cope over there. It’s driving me mental 👎🏼 Currently inside fettling on the rear axle housing. I’ve removed the damper mounts as they are no longer needed ( I’d taken a guesstimate on their location but the geometry turned out poor, and due to packaging restraints, mounting them on the lower trailing arms was the best compromise) . Little bits to do like cap the trailing arm mounts in and just clean up etc. Next on the chassis will be more of the tub load bearing mounts Oh, and I still haven’t finished peening those chassis welds 🤦🏻♂️😆 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 “Well sometimes you just have to take it on the chin …. “ Linda Lovelace It was pointed out to me that my load supports on my chassis ties and the ones I started making for the chassis were of poor design. The flared hole in the top flange was a bad idea for fatigue failure. It reduces cross sectional area AND is a stress riser in the section under higher stress. So off they came… That gave me the opportunity to revise my load support spacing layout. One landed right on axle centreline which I didn’t think a good idea as far as stresses in chassis rails, and I wanted to move the rear most, rearward. I also came across the WSM diagram with the chassis datum to rear cross member (height) reference. And now I’m as confused as Cal Norten Jr It turns out my cross member is exactly on height in relation to chassis datum line. As the load supports in that diameter appear parallel, then it should not matter what length the rear cross member is at. The confusing part is my datum line is not parallel with the mid section top of chassis rail…. At this point I’m going to stop asking the universe questions and just roll with datum line as my guide. Mounting the rear tub angle at about the usual height above cross member and striking a line through to the front bulkhead has the bodywork parallel with datum line. So that’s going to be it for now…. or until something changes. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post uninformed Posted August 25 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 25 Just the usual “not much to report “….. As is my wont , I have gone down another rabbit hole, that being the tub bulkhead. Since I had it off to check the body line and chassis datum, I figure to finish the main mounting angle and some other related bits The two intermediate brackets are to transfer seat belt retainer loads in a direct path to the chassis rails. There will be stays on the rear side of tub bulkhead similar to what LR do. The two outer gussets are to transfer the in cab stays (vertical loads) down to the chassis mounts. LR only installed steel in cab stays on Cab Chassis AFAIK, but I’ll be adding them in my 2 door pick up. I assume they felt the tub bulkhead ridged enough with the full tub whereas the Cab Chassis variant as nothing to stiffen the rear of cab. These brackets are bolt in because keeping the mounting angle straight was an absolute bear even with just welding the profiled bottom flange and the two seatbelt retainer mounts. The hollow section next to the main mounting angle I fabricated. LR had very little strength at the top of the tub bulkheads IMO. This consisted of the simple fold at the top of the aluminium panel, the top body capping with a few rivets and two short formed C sections either side. The in cab stays come hard up under these short sections. I wasn’t happy with how little was tying the two stays together laterally and horizontal resistance to say a load shifting forward in the tub… So I got the same section folded, welded it in between the two ends (the short sections have the very ends Jogged to suit the profile of the stepped aluminium of the bulkhead) . I also plated in the bottom to form a hollow section and make it stiffer. Here are LR efforts (they are cut shorter here to remove the “peppered” holes The 3rd piece in the first photo is just the bulkhead body capping. It’s been paint stripped then acid dipped to remove gal. I also added more formed recesses for extra rivets I still have to make the in cab stays, and I’ll be redoing the B pillar reinforcement….. no surprises there 🤦🏻♂️ All this as I’d like to get these bits off to the galvanisers. There isn’t many options here so I want to see how they go with the various pieces and the finish quality. The only really visual item with be the body capping, but better this piece than the sides or rear of tub. Not sure whether I’ve mentioned but my 110 will be Series style as far as paint etc. Marine blue for the body, Limestone for the wheels, roof and cab turret, and all body cappings will be raw gal. I’ll also be getting as many bolt on steel parts galvanised as well. I really hate rust! cheers 🍺 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 On 8/25/2024 at 9:43 AM, uninformed said: Not sure whether I’ve mentioned but my 110 will be Series style as far as paint etc. Marine blue for the body, Limestone for the wheels, roof and cab turret, and all body cappings will be raw gal. Ah, a man of taste! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted August 28 Author Share Posted August 28 21 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: Ah, a man of taste! I’d like to point out I decided this nearly 5 years ago before the influx of Series colours Defrs lol. My caveat were, had to be an original Series colour and scheme and it WASNT going to be either of the greens. It came down to Marine Blue and Mid Grey, and while I’ve seen a few cool looking grey Defrs, the blue won me over. Now every man and his dog are painting them Marine Blue 😆 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted August 28 Author Share Posted August 28 As I’m still working on the tub bulkhead and some associated bits, is there any reason not to use Series tub side cappings? is there any difference that will affect body fitment or structure? I don’t have anything Def’r to compare… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 28 Share Posted August 28 8 hours ago, uninformed said: My caveat were, had to be an original Series colour and scheme I quite like the early series RAF blue, which is just that bit different, .... not sure if that applied to RAAF though?. ... As I get older I do quite like the light green, hated it when we owned one but nostalgia plays tricks after a few years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 28 Share Posted August 28 8 hours ago, uninformed said: I’d like to point out I decided this nearly 5 years ago before the influx of Series colours Defrs lol. My caveat were, had to be an original Series colour and scheme and it WASNT going to be either of the greens. It came down to Marine Blue and Mid Grey, and while I’ve seen a few cool looking grey Defrs, the blue won me over. Now every man and his dog are painting them Marine Blue 😆 Similar thoughts here.... I love grasmere green and keswick green but they've just been so over done by the tarted up 'heritage' versions various people and companies are churning out. I think marine blue will look great. Also like @Blanco's suggestion of RAF blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted August 28 Share Posted August 28 9 hours ago, uninformed said: Is there any difference that will affect body fitment or structure? I don't think so. Both my 90 and my 110stw features cut down 109 cappings. The only difference I could find was the small part that extends over the doorseal. If memory serves me right, it isn't there on the newer ones. /mads 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted August 28 Share Posted August 28 12 hours ago, uninformed said: Now every man and his dog are painting them Marine Blue 😆 you could change it to stratos bleu LRC327 , not many around , so it stays a bit special 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post uninformed Posted September 8 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 8 I started some bodywork because why not get yet another job going before finishing all the others started 🤣🤣 I had some aluminium folded to emulate the stiffening piece at the top of the rear 1/4 panels that Series have but I’m assuming Defenders don’t as they weren’t on my panels? Bonded with Sika 252 panel bond. They will get rivets later with cappings etc. And I started the rear mounting angle, attaching the transition angle to it. It got Sika 252 panel bond and CherryMax structural rivets in CSK head. The plan is for all aluminium bodywork to be joined with the Sika 252 and CherryMax structural rivets used throughout. All joined surfaces are sanded with 120 on a DA sander, wiped with metho to remove bulk grime, then wiped with plumbers PVC solvent ( MEK a cheaper alternative to specialist primers) then the Sika 252 bead spread out flat for total joint coverage on one surface. Either clamp with stiffeners or rivet. I can say I’m already over drilling aluminium and I can’t wait to do the floor stiffeners with about a zillion CSK holes 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤣 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted September 21 Author Share Posted September 21 And the fun continues…. I’ve been tinkering away on the various rear bulkhead bracketry and did a quick bolt in to check alignment and fitment in position. This so I can get my first lot of bits off to the galvanisers The in cab stays will affect the vertical angle of bulkhead (importantly the B pillars) so making sure that’s right is critical before sending them off. Unfortunately, in true LR “coach building” fashion, *cough (ruff as guts) cough* ….. I found the returns each end were not square to the back of bulkhead This affected the B pillars and when they were aligned plumb each side (looking from the front ) they were 10mm wider overall when compared to the back of the bulkhead…. Only 200mm away!! This is the body width and has to match (well as close as possible to the front bulkhead) , not only would it have been 10mm wider , it would put a big kick/bow in the guards. So a few spot welds and rivets drilled out and I can realign them square, which surprise surprise, puts the overall width on point with the rear… the old 1 step forward 487 steps back 🤦🏻♂️ 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Impressive. Hat off to you Sir. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 This is going to be the most perfect Land Rover ever!🤩 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted Saturday at 11:27 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 11:27 PM 3 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said: This is going to be the most perfect Land Rover ever!🤩 Hardly! But if you squint it will be good enough 👍 I was thinking last night (as we do), and I wonder if the cab chassis variants got the worst of the rear bulkheads. If they had QC for that it would make sense as the effect to the body line is pretty much nil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted Sunday at 06:21 AM Share Posted Sunday at 06:21 AM It’s amazing the dimensional errors that they have, not only poor tolerances, but mismatched design that is never rectified. Every Defender built has a 7mm difference in the width of the rad slam planes compared to the chassis brackets for the front wing lower corners, which is why they all have sagging front wings, and they all suffer from the sidelight and indicator holes in the headlamp trim plastic squares being in the wrong location, putting them out of square with the wing fronts and exacerbating the drooping look, always worse on the right wing than the left.. From 1984 to 2016, they never bothered to fix it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted Sunday at 03:02 PM Share Posted Sunday at 03:02 PM 18 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said: This is going to be the most perfect Land Rover ever!🤩 Then it absolutely will not be a Landrover Sergrover has a nice ring to it though....... Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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