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I bought a new pintle , found some safety chain clevis pin and blocks from a Perenti and have done a little more design work on my rear cross member. I also picked up the parts from the electroplaters. 
 

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15 hours ago, Steeee said:

Do you have any pictures of your bed?

also how is it mounted to the chassis

If you go back to page 2, you will see my rear tub is picked apart, waiting to be modified to suit my application. It is just a standard Series11a LWB tub. I will have to reposition/reprofile the wheel openings first, then shorten front and rear to suit. It will be assembled the same way LR have done it, though my wheel wells may be a touch higher, the lower floor may be a touch narrower.... And it will be mounted the same way LR mount their tubs, that is, to the rear cross member, rear bulkhead outriggers and load bear on the chassis points. I might be using the Defender rear Bulkhead with all the other series bits? Floor and wheel wells will be new aluminium as they are simple flat/folded sections. I will be buying some new bits and pieces out of the UK from YRM (unless someone has a better source). Not sure if I will use solid rivets, but all "pop" style rivets will be structural "CherryMax" style rivets.

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8 minutes ago, Steeee said:

Sorry I meant the flat bed in the first picture 

ahhh ok. It started as a standard fittment aluminium tray. These are made up of side extrusions that take tray planks that interlock with each other. Strong and light. They come with drop down side and rear gates about 200-250mm high (not shown in my pic) It was mounted to the rear cross member and to some of the load bearing points, but that is not the correct way to do it. There is an offical LR service bulletin/mounting document floating around the internet. Do what LR do! mount to rear cross member, and only load bare on the LB points. 

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13 hours ago, uninformed said:

ahhh ok. It started as a standard fittment aluminium tray. These are made up of side extrusions that take tray planks that interlock with each other. Strong and light. They come with drop down side and rear gates about 200-250mm high (not shown in my pic) It was mounted to the rear cross member and to some of the load bearing points, but that is not the correct way to do it. There is an offical LR service bulletin/mounting document floating around the internet. Do what LR do! mount to rear cross member, and only load bare on the LB points. 

thanks for that

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Well I was going to mark out the rear tub (Series) wheel arch and cut it to form the Defender shape. But after asking a few of the local 110 guys with bigger tyres and negative offset rims if and where their tyres rub on the body work, it seems I will have to wait until im a roing chassis and can cross articulate my set up. With my wide track and 130 rims (+20.6mm offset) it puts me at the equivilant of -56.4mm offset (from +33). Even though ill only be running 255/85R16 as daily tyres, the arc the axles swing may well have them fowling before tucking inside. Also looking at the Series vs Defender, it seems their wheel wells are pretty much the same height but the Defender arch is much higher, only ~15mm below the wells at peak of arch. Given I will be making new wells, at least I can make them higher if need be. 

On to other things I guess

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  • 1 month later...
9 hours ago, landroversforever said:

That's looking great! What's the plan for the chassis end? Pin? Joint? D2 type bush?

Just the standard pin type. The eye/bush is fine but I prefer the rotation the pin gives. 
 

 

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On 4/25/2021 at 8:53 AM, uninformed said:

Still not finished and still not safe from the scrap pile...

Please don't scrap it........... in this house that would go on the wall as a work of art! 😲

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3 hours ago, Blanco said:

Please don't scrap it........... in this house that would go on the wall as a work of art! 😲

Thanks.

 

im not concerned whether it looks good or bad, my concern is getting the eye bosses true and square, on centre measurement, on “caster” within the arm itself and then make the second one identical. Even with a thought out procedure, pre heating and jigging, there was always going to be distortion. I have “heat straightened” this one into alignment. But it still has a little more welding to go and of course the second one has to be exactly the same...

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58 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Certainly looks better engineered than most of the fabricated arms you see sold on the aftermarket.

Thanks, and I hope so. With limited budget , equipment and materials you can only have strong OR light, not both. 
 

32x10 top and bottom flanges. 2x 4mm plate webs with 20mm separation. 4mm plate laminations (I still have to do them at axle end).

 

All flanges to eye bosses are full penetration welds

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Pretty picture but would you not fill that gap to avoid a stress riser?

That is the root run, just showing full penetration of the flange. They were welded out (multiple passes)

 

 

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33 minutes ago, uninformed said:

That is the root run, just showing full penetration of the flange. They were welded out (multiple passes)

I assumed they would be, just had to ask though!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Some great fabrication, very tidy - going by the cleanliness of al those welds you're TIG-ing the whole lot? x-ray is quite the extreme NDT for this kind of fabrication, it should certainly insure your welds are clean of any anomalies. 

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16 hours ago, Maverik said:

Some great fabrication, very tidy - going by the cleanliness of al those welds you're TIG-ing the whole lot? x-ray is quite the extreme NDT for this kind of fabrication, it should certainly insure your welds are clean of any anomalies. 

Yes all TIG ( or GTAW ). The engineer is looking for two main things with X-ray, the quality of weld and penetration. 

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I have both Radius arms to pretty much the same point and am just waiting on some more laser cuttings. These are coming with the rear cross member pieces. In the meantime I started fabricating a new transmission cross member. On the 300Tdi the cross member and the lower mounting brackets hang below the chassis rail. It looks like the original 4 bolt mounting points from the earlier 110 has been kept and then they added the 3x M8 holes further back. There is room for the RHS to move upward, flush with the bottom of main chassis rails. I removed the lower bracketry that was already buckled from mild off roading. Unfortunately there is rust in the main chassis rails due to crevice corrosion....

 

less than ideal, but better to find it now. 

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