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Binding front axle


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I’ve had an inclination that the front running gear might not be doing it’s job well lately and after a run out yesterday I’m pretty sure it’s not.

 

I installed the aux tank not long ago and was looking for some decent returns on fuel, however the calculations are about 16mpg which is pretty dire.  The tune and exhaust/intercooler/air inlet shouldn’t affect anything that badly, however I noticed that even on pretty steep hills the landy is slowing down when momentum should be pushing it along at a steady speed, even accelerating. I know it’s even less aerodynamic than usual, but bear with me.

 

I lifted the front wheel to give it a whizz around and after a half  turn ( hand on top and turning it 180 degree around to 6 o’clock ) it just reaches 9 o’clock. There is a sound like the pads rubbing on the discs, but not overly loud.

 

I drained the diff as it’s due, black oil came out, smelt like oil, no lumps of metal as yet.

 

I’ve disconnected the prop shaft and spun it again, it gives me a little more distance, but it does feel like I have some resistance above and beyond what’s normal.  This is with one wheel in the air

 

The rear’s give a better result but I haven’t disconnected the prop or drained that one yet.

 

one other point which may be of interest, when turning to the right I get a double clunk sound, this doesn’t happen all the time and only when the steering is under load ( slow speed  or stationary).

 

The wheels themselves have no play side to side.

 

The diff is showing signs of oil leaks around the breather, fill plug and around the output shaft to the prop.

 

Is it worth removing the diff cover to take a look inside? This is the 2 pin variation front diff.

 

 

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Are your front hubs inner face touching the outer face of the calipers, I replaced my front calipers recently & had to grind off a bit of material from hub inner face stud bosses & caliper so the hub/disc could do a full rotation with some running clearance. 

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Jack each wheel up and check the caliper pistons aren't stuck - very common for them to get muddy/rusty and not withdraw after pushing out.  A clean up with a scraper, bit of brake fluid and wet/dry paper then pushing them back & forth helps.  You might also just have old worn injectors.  Check handbrake not binding too. 

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Worth noting at this time of year fuel consumption is at its worst, air is thickest, water to slosh through etc. And the above is good advice, pad drag is a good thing to check, as is tyre pressures.

But 16mpg? Might be worth lifting the bonnet and checking no-one has nicked your engine and left you a V8.

 

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I’ve removed the pads from the front, prop shaft still removed and it’s acting like it should do, half a turn gives me a full turn at least ( both wheels off the floor )

 

So the issue is with the brakes binding.

 

I’ve not touched anything and the pads & discs were replaced about 2 years ago ( still plenty of wear in the pads, discs have an even face )

 

It looks like a overhaul of the callipers then as it seems they’re not returning correctly, however being 10 years old, is it worth just replacing them? 
 

 

 

 

 

 

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If the pistons look ok - a few dots of surface rust or lots of silt/mud then a careful clean should be ok.  Lubricate them with a few drops of brake fluid and carefully lever them back squarely- I use a big inch spanner. You'll need to make sure the other pistons cant close up to the disk by wedging with something - I use another big spanner. When it's all the way back, press brake pedal, lube and repeat till it moves freely. 

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Since you're planning on removing the calipers for an on-bench overhaul go for new stainless pistons.  New seals come with them - mine did.  I replaced mine about ten years ago and haven't had any problems.  The old pistons were showing rusty patches on the sections that were permanently exposed, and since I was fitting new pads at the same time these rusted sections would be pushed back into the calipers and potentially be allowing leaks under the seals.

Mike

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32 minutes ago, western said:

Still think you need to look at the areas I mentioned, as removing the pads won't cure that fault of hub inner face touching the caliper outer faces.


After cleaning the surfaces up, the distances to the disc have become equal , I first thought they were touching :unsure:

 

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Ahh I see, I will check that once these are rebuilt, thanks for the heads up.

 

One or two pictures of the pistons

62C6AAD4-1F14-4FF3-BDF6-37202A333185.jpeg.a2695ce7d0a77d7587befce6dc5ecf1d.jpeg4100831D-CCF7-474C-A5ED-34C9664CE527.jpeg.0049b867898e4cee4879420ba6e2e208.jpeg

 

As you can see some of the seals are missing as well as this metal ring which I found squashed under one of the calipers

 

17419C06-FEEB-4676-B91D-6C520661623E.jpeg.10fc8167458d30009cbd2693b5b74d7f.jpeg

 

When I collected the truck from the dealer about 3 years ago now, there was a knock on the driver train.  The local Indy to me did an inspection as the dealer I bought it from was too far away and they found the discs were beyond the manufacturer’s thickness.  To cut a long story short, the dealer replaced the discs, pads and a few other bits but never touched the callipers.
If a disc is worn and the pads were low, would the pistons be beyond the seated position at rest, ie exposed?

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5 hours ago, cackshifter said:

Many folks swap to stainless pistons for this very reason.

I would absolutely a +1 on this, fairly easy to swap out and not overly expensive (check paddocks).

All the best

G

 

Edited by gruntus
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I replaced all my callipers pistons recently with item bought from Autopost on ebay These includes seals,wiper rings, metal retainers, bleed screw caps.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-CALIPER-PISTON-KIT-FRONT-46mm-STAINLESS-STEEL-STC1280ST/283197457430?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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