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DNB67

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Hi everyone..  I’ve just bought and got home a 1972 Series 3 88 V8 with a 3 speed Auto which the last owner started to restore.

I am the 12th owner of JDF 99L which the V5C lists as a 3528cc vehicle and the DVLA’s vehicle checker states it only as 29,783 miles which i struggle to believe.  (Although the last recorded test was 2007, so the mileage must have increased since then) 

The previous owner started with a Galvanized chassis which has had the front crossmember altered for Power Steering and i found Power Steering Parts when going through the parts that came with it. I do need to check the standard of welding here because it is structural and can only assume this has compromised the galvanizing coating..

The body parts look in reasonable condition.  Rear Tub, bulkhead and wings are all painted Green, and not that well.  I may look to do this again and would like to find out the original colour, to consider this as an option when repainting. 

I will soon be removing the rear tub and bulkhead which were loosely attached for transport purposes.  I have already admitted defeat and purchased a Haynes Manual, as i was not the person to strip it down so can only guess at some of the parts!!!  The previous owner clearly purchased a lot of replacement parts, but i think some are missing.  The obvious bits missing are 2 doors and rear tailgate, but I’m sure there will be more..  where is best for replacement parts (Old and new) whilst some new parts look good value, there appears to be suggestions the standard and quality aren’t always as good as they should be.

I would be very keen to find out any sites where you can determine the original spec of the vehicle when it left the factory.  The V5C shows it as black car!! Any suggestions would be appreciated..

i attach some photos of the current state of play.  I now just need my brother in law to clear his furniture from my garage so the fun can begin, putting it back together.

The main areas i am considering improvements on and need device are;

  1. the power steering conversion that has been started.  (See photos) are there any forums or articles detailing how this is completed.
  2. any advice on paint removal from ally panels.  (I suspect blasting is too abrasive, not sure about chemical dipping, resin discs in a grinder or is a DA Sander the best way forward). I do not yet know how many layers of paint there are.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts, tips or contacts i may need...

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Do you have a power steering box in amongst the parts that came with the vehicle? It would be interesting to see it.

It doesn’t look like a P38 setup so maybe the PO intended to use a box from a different model that mounts on the inside of the chassis rails.

That front crossmember modification doesn’t inspire confidence if I’m being honest.

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Welcome to the forum!
 

I’d try paint stripped before abrasives on the body, but if you need abrasives, then so be it.  Just don’t be too aggressive, as aluminium is very soft and will also distort and stretch if you get it hot.  Heat is the principle reason for not blasting it unless you really know what you’re doing and use softer media, too.

That cross member is not fit for purpose, having been hacked for an Adwest (RR, Discovery, Defender) type steering box.  I’d recommend replacing it and using a P38 steering box, which gives better feel and is much more reliable and robust, and will sit outboard, allowing the full cross member to be refitted, or you could just return to standard Series steering, which is ample on a typical 88 on standard wheel and tyre sizes.

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Bigj66 and Snagger.  Thanks for your comments.  I agree the crossmember alteration isn’t very inspiring, so i will be replacing the crossmember.   I might even then get it Hot Zinc Sprayed to reinstate the long term protection and at the same time i will prep and get the Bulkhead sprayed too.  I read that Galvanised Dipping can twist the bulkhead and there is a company close to me that does the spraying which looks a sensible solution.  I cant believe people do such shoddy work to a brand new galvanised chassis they have just bought at a significant price!! There is what i believe to be an Adwest Steering Box in the numerous parts and the aluminium engine/gearbox adapter too.  I like the idea of the P38 steering conversion.  Do most people get it from Steve Parkers or fabricate it themselves?  His kit looks good quality.  The engine has yet to be delivered but i will take some more photos as soon as i get the chance.  I think my first job is to get the bulkhead and rear tub off, clean the chassis and then check that the axle/suspension are refitted and tightened properly. 

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Another new V8 in Hampshire, welcome!

The Haynes manual is worth having but I find the factory parts book & green bible (workshop manual) are where it's at - they're out there as free downloads in PDF form if you search, or you can pick up printed copies to thumb through in the workshop. Often the exploded parts diagram is the most useful thing out of all of them.

Avoid Britpart parts, they're a lottery at best. The chaps at Keith Gott's parts department know everything - they're not the cheapest but they are open on a Saturday morning and that often counts for a lot!

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The Steve Parker kit is a rip off.  For £500 you get a few bits of cut steel to weld up a bracket, some unnecessary steering rods and little else.  You’ll still have to source the PAS box, pump, reservoir, pipes and hoses, and sort the steering column.  I think the way he describes it as a kit is very close to illegal, as it is clearly meant to to suggest that it has all you need for the job, and at that price you’d expect it to have decent used hydraulic parts.

From my experience of two Steve Parker exhausts, one for a 12J and one for a Tdi conversion, I’d recommend you keep away from that business. The quality was dire, but the service was worse - abusive and dishonest.  I see them as a classic rogue trader.

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I would check that the bolt holes for the PAS box have been sleeved through with steel tube rather than just drilled. I'd also be tempted to cut out that whole front X-member and put a single piece of box section all the way across further forward (where the short addition currently is) to make it look a lot less hacked about. Just be sure to brace the front legs of the chassis before cutting it out.

2006-09-14_001.jpg

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