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galvanised cross members


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apologgies for bringing this up again.

i should like to procure a galvanised cross memeber, but searching through old posts i can't actualy find any suppliers of them mentioned. i'm perhaps being a bit thick and failing to find it.

the name brooklyn or brookwells rings a bell, but i'm not too sure. any pointers would be appreciated.

thanks

callum

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I remember seeing one advertised in the comics, but can't remember who made it.

I want one too so if anyone can remember?

Welding it on isn't too much of a problem if you grind the zinc off where you will be welding. Just make sure the fumes don't get you.

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I remember seeing one advertised in the comics, but can't remember who made it.

I want one too so if anyone can remember?

Welding it on isn't too much of a problem if you grind the zinc off where you will be welding. Just make sure the fumes don't get you.

that was the intention to remove the galv from outside and inside of bits being welded. then slap loads of paint then bitumin paint over the whole lot and forget about it for a long time.

anyone got any leads?

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apologgies for bringing this up again.

i should like to procure a galvanised cross memeber, but searching through old posts i can't actualy find any suppliers of them mentioned. i'm perhaps being a bit thick and failing to find it.

the name brooklyn or brookwells rings a bell, but i'm not too sure. any pointers would be appreciated.

thanks

callum

Callum,

Why not make a new xmember (I take it its the one just below the gearbox you're on about) and then get it galvanised..

Give me a bell if you want any more info.

Bob

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Callum,

Why not make a new xmember (I take it its the one just below the gearbox you're on about) and then get it galvanised..

Give me a bell if you want any more info.

Bob

hi bob,

unfortunately its the crossmember at the back ( think i should have been a bit more clear when i made the original post as to which crossmember i meant) which has become crusty. a while back i had to take a bumperette off to fit a wheel carrier and a large quantiy of brown flakes came off rather than the bolts undoing.

looking to get a galvanised one given that their design makes them something of a rust trap. i could get a replacement one galvanised, but it would be easier to get one that's already been done.

should i have to get it galvanised myself have you used anyone locally? my dad talked of a galvanisers in cumbernauld and i know crow engineering or whatever they go by nowadays send them to inverness or something, but a closer one might be helpful.

thanks for your help

callum

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unfortunately its the crossmember at the back ( think i should have been a bit more clear when i made the original post as to which crossmember i meant) which has become crusty. a while back i had to take a bumperette off to fit a wheel carrier and a large quantiy of brown flakes came off rather than the bolts undoing.

should i have to get it galvanised myself have you used anyone locally? my dad talked of a galvanisers in cumbernauld and i know crow engineering or whatever they go by nowadays send them to inverness or something, but a closer one might be helpful.

The inverness co. is Highland galvansers and they have a place in Cumbernauld now.

The problem with galv. a replacement xmember is that it will be a bitch to weld due to the fumes.

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The inverness co. is Highland galvansers and they have a place in Cumbernauld now.

The problem with galv. a replacement xmember is that it will be a bitch to weld due to the fumes.

indeed, not as if its going to be a terribly well ventilated place underneath the back of a rover. :( should be able to take the galv far enough back i think. main corrosion issue is the crossmember itself, most specifically seams facing conveniently towards the wheels. major issue i suppose would be the seams of the replacement crossmember legs. easy enough to strip both inside and out at the ends and the outside a bit further up, but it would be difficult to deal with the inside of those seams.

ideal would be some suitably sized rhs made into a crossmember, like i think you have on the lightweight (if i remember correctly). it solves the water trap issues so wouldn't need galved, but they take a lot of fab time to make and some careful measuring. unforuntaley i wont have any time until summer holidays for such things (much as i'd like to spend time tinkering in the garage).

thankfully a kind sould has offered to weld on a new crossmember for me whilst i'm busy with uni, so that's ok. perhaps not terribly fair to expose someone else to any risk of galv welding though.

hmm, maybe i ought just to settle for a normal replacement one like everyone else and see to lots of painting. old one lasted almost 20 years i suppose.

i shall see if anyone has any leads, although its not looking likely (maybe that should tell me something)

aaaanyway

thanks for your help, mot's not till end of july so its not crucial, however if i can get one now at least it can be welded on by an adult for me :D .

callum

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My mate phil (www.thegreenlandy.co.uk) does then inc extensions for about £190 IIRC i have another second hand galv x memebr on my 90 and its yop notch only problem i have is the paint is starting the come off in places even tho i used the correct etch primer but i can live with that knowing i'll never have to replace it (hopefully)

newxmember.jpg

old one wasnt too good mind :ph34r:

90001.jpg

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My mate phil (www.thegreenlandy.co.uk) does then inc extensions for about £190 IIRC i have another second hand galv x memebr on my 90 and its yop notch only problem i have is the paint is starting the come off in places even tho i used the correct etch primer but i can live with that knowing i'll never have to replace it (hopefully)

newxmember.jpg

old one wasnt too good mind :ph34r:

90001.jpg

dont see the pont in galvanizing my self/

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well , some decent paint and some wax oil will by far outlast galvanizing if its looked after.

ive seen galvanized parts turn to rusty old mush because the owner thought 'its galvanized , i can forget about it'.

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well , some decent paint and some wax oil will by far outlast galvanizing if its looked after.

ive seen galvanized parts turn to rusty old mush because the owner thought 'its galvanized , i can forget about it'.

Right......

I think you've just seen some poor galvanising.

Galvanising, done properly, will outlast painted protection by a factor of maybe 10, 20 times IMHO.

In short, there really is a point.

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well the sill rails on my 90 were galvanized by landrover and they crumbled when i removed them. the bits below the front doors that run from the rear outrigger/tub to the dash panel assembly (bulkhead) where as other bits that had been painted were fine.

the problem with galvanizing is that if it gets chipped , rust will take hold and the metal underneath will rot.

dont get me wrong , it does help but you cant just forget about it , you need to paint/waxoil over the top of it.

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Galvanising offers a more hardwearing finish than paint, that's why people go to the effort of having a big tank full of hot liquid zinc, why they go to the hassle of re-cutting threads and cleaning parts after galvansing, why people go to the effort of having components hot zinc dipped, rather than just whipping out the paint brush and slapping some paint on.

You seem to be basing your argument on a few components on your landrover, if you were to look into the widespread uses and applications of galvanising, you'll see how succesful it is.

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im not saying it isnt good at protecting metal , im just saying that in an application such as the underneath of a landrover it would probably also help if it were painted/waxoiled as well as galvanized.

it still needs to be looked after.

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OK, if that's your view.

The anchor, boat trailer and numerous other bits i've got say different, but each to their own.

Edit: An afterthought, are you sure the components you've seen trouble with are actually hot-dip zinc galvanised? this is completely different to galvanising/zinc oxide paint, which might well chip. In terms of durability and longevity, the two are completely different.

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My understanding is that hot dipped galvanising adheres to the steel in a similar way to solder or braze does, it doesn't just coat it. As Luke says the zinc forms a sacrificial anode and prevents the steel from rotting as quickly as it would if painted.

Because of the way the zinc adheres theres is no way water can get underneath it, unlike with underseal which can do more harm than good. The steel does have to be clinically clean though, parts to be galvanised should be pickled in hydrchloric acid immediately before dipping.

You can get discolouration, I have a galvanised chassis which hasn't seen any use yet and patches have turned yellowish, but nothing has corroded away.

I would strongly recommend something like waxoyl sprayed on the inside though as there is a possibilty that bits may have been missed during dipping. I also intend to waxoyl mine on the outside as I believe in belt & braces!

I too have rusty cappings, but they haven't corroded as such, and they are 33 years old. If they'd been painted they'd probably be non-existant by now.

the bits below the front doors that run from the rear outrigger/tub to the dash panel assembly (bulkhead) where as other bits that had been painted were fine. Isn't this aluminium?

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I have just bought a new Xmember with extension rails and will be getting it Hot Galv Dipped in the next week or so (Thanks to Graeme @ the SORC).

I intend to strip back the galv @ the end of the extension legs to allow easier welding...and save me getting 'heavy metal poisoning' when i weld it up.

I will then cold galv the welds.

Then paint

Than Waxoil the whole thing.

All inside & Out of course!

It a belt & Braces approach!

And in term of how effective Hot Galv is - look at the finisher rails on Series Landies - 45years on - still not rusted!

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