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So thought it would be a good idea to change the brake fluid today as its all mucky.

Changed the rear left brake pipe at the same time as it was worn against a fixing on the back axle. That took ages as everything is seized. One spanner was all I should have needed but most tools were out in the end.... Anyway, got that done and proceeded to bleed everything. Last caliper and the bloody bleed screw has sheared in the caliper.

Two questions:

1. Its flush with the caliper - I presume the best way to get it out is to drill carefully, slowly increasing the bit size? Any other tips? There is nothing to weld onto and I am never keen welding on the caliper as I dont like the idea of the heat near those seals.

2. I need RTC1526 but will this be a standard fit on all calipers? I think these are originals that I rebuilt about 8 years ago with stainless pistons etc... I used to have a set of spare calipers and could have robbed a bleed screw off of them but I think I sold them.

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13 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:

You might be able to use a small chisel or flat blade screw driver and gently tap it round till you can get your fingers on it to get it out.

I will give it a go but i had a socket on it when it sheared so fear it is corroded in!

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I hate those things - it doesn’t seem to matter what I do putting them in, they are seized when I come to take them out. 
 

Only thing that seems to get them out for me is heat. So if you are going to tap with a chisel I’d put a torch on it first. 

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If it was that corroded, then it is unlikely any tapping will get it out -with heat, maybe an extractor will do it.

When drilling they are M10x1.0mm, so you have very, very little thread to play with, so being off centre at all is a complete no-no. Even then, will the threads in the caliper be any good, if they are that corroded?

I have successfully re-tapped a caliper, but honestly it played on my mind so much I decided to replace it after a very short time -at the end of the day, we only have one life.

 

There are nipple repair kits out there, but never used one, so can't comment.

 

 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, cackshifter said:

There is a hole down the middle. Maybe a torx bit sharpened a bit and tapped in might grip. 

Can give that a go. 

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14 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

If it was that corroded, then it is unlikely any tapping will get it out -with heat, maybe an extractor will do it.

When drilling they are M10x1.0mm, so you have very, very little thread to play with, so being off centre at all is a complete no-no. Even then, will the threads in the caliper be any good, if they are that corroded?

I have successfully re-tapped a caliper, but honestly it played on my mind so much I decided to replace it after a very short time -at the end of the day, we only have one life.

 

There are nipple repair kits out there, but never used one, so can't comment.

 

 

 

 

I have never got an extractor to work. They always snap!!

 

Knowing the size is handy

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32 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

I hate those things - it doesn’t seem to matter what I do putting them in, they are seized when I come to take them out. 
 

Only thing that seems to get them out for me is heat. So if you are going to tap with a chisel I’d put a torch on it first. 

I just worry about flames and that amount of heat near caliper seals??

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Wouldn't worry too much about the seals + heat, brakes do get hot after all, plus, localise it, and dunk the caliper in a bucket once you are done and probably be fine.

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Heat is your friend to get things un seized.

The seals will be fine, there's an awful lot of heat generated by the brakes anyway.

You could always put a wet towel over the calliper to keep the heat local.

I'd be wary of drilling in case you hit the V at the bottom of the nipple bore and damage it.

I'm almost certain to have a spare nipple here if you need one ASAP, I'm only just up the A1.

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31 minutes ago, pat_pending said:

Heat is your friend to get things un seized.

The seals will be fine, there's an awful lot of heat generated by the brakes anyway.

You could always put a wet towel over the calliper to keep the heat local.

I'd be wary of drilling in case you hit the V at the bottom of the nipple bore and damage it.

I'm almost certain to have a spare nipple here if you need one ASAP, I'm only just up the A1.

Thanks for this. Normally I would have popped up to pick up a nipple (!) but the 110 is in Cornwall. I was going to use it to travel for work on Monday but will take the D3 instead now. I will get a nipple on order. I don't want to change these calipers if possible as I refurbed them with stainless pistons in about 2013 and the pistons are perfect.

I might heat it then and hammer in a torx bit and see where I get to with that. Failing that, once I have the new nipple I can at least get a depth on it so I can work out how far I can drill to avoid damaging the seat.

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Well that was a balls up. The torx bit has snapped and being hard wont drill. So a perfectly good caliper ruined really.

I think time wise I need to give up and will just put two new AP calipers on it. Then when they need a rebuild I can transfer the stainless pistons over from these ones.

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18 hours ago, western said:

I would try a screw extractor first and a good soaking in Plus gas. before drilling it, got my old but useable front calipers in garage if you can't get one easily. 

Thanks Ralph - i didnt see this yesterday. Dont worry. I think I am going to give up and just fit two new calipers. Any chance you could confirm part numbers for me please? 1989 110 unvented - they will be the same as yours (unvented though) - I think it is RTC5572 and RTC5573 but some of the sites (Britcar) suggest these are for a 90?

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20 minutes ago, reb78 said:

Thanks Ralph - i didnt see this yesterday. Dont worry. I think I am going to give up and just fit two new calipers. Any chance you could confirm part numbers for me please? 1989 110 unvented - they will be the same as yours (unvented though) - I think it is RTC5572 and RTC5573 but some of the sites (Britcar) suggest these are for a 90?

non vented calipers are the 2 numbers you posted above, But have changed to 

SEB500440 - BRAKE CALIPER RIGHT HAND FRONT - NON VENTED DEFENDER

SEB500450 - BRAKE CALIPER LEFT HAND FRONT - NON VENTED DEFENDER

my recently removed calipers are vented, which I fitted about 15 years ago. 

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28 minutes ago, pat_pending said:

Put a washer over it, then get some weld on it, once the weld blob is big enough you can drop a nut on and weld that.

It'll either get the broken bit out or take the nipple with it if you're lucky.

As here, you may have more chance of getting it out now.

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1 hour ago, pat_pending said:

Put a washer over it, then get some weld on it, once the weld blob is big enough you can drop a nut on and weld that.

It'll either get the broken bit out or take the nipple with it if you're lucky.

I was going to suggest this - it has not failed me yet.

However, my normal approach is to find a bit of tube slightly smaller than the bore of the hole, cut a short length and fill the interior with weld.  This works when the bolt has broken off below the surface, protecting the threads.  Then weld a nut over the tube.  The Washer + Nut method works well if flush with the surface.

One of my head bolts snapped 20mm inside the block.  The tube method got it out fine with no damage to the block. 

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44 minutes ago, cackshifter said:

Sorry the torx bit didn't work. It must be well seized

Oh, not your fault. It was a good idea and could have been quick if it had worked. 

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Well, this isnt shifting. Went out at about 2 and started faffing with the welder but I cant get the thing out and am just making a mess now!

 

Ralph, those superseded numbers... LRCAT suggests they are for VIN 6A onwards. Wasn't there a change from metric to imperial caliper bolts and would that make a difference to these?

 

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