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Mudguard Mounting Holes (and alternative mounting options)


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I am looking at drilling my chassis to accept the standard mudguard brackets. On my Richards chassis, there is no indication where these holes should go. Can anyone take measurements to show exactly where the holes are drilled? I am not too pleased to be drilling a galvanised chassis at all, so being as exact as possible would really help me out. I need front and rear bolt holes, please.

While Googling this, one repeated answer to the question on forums was "why?" (no answer to the original question, though). Yes they get hooked up off road but the car isn't going to spend more than 5% of its life off road and there are benefits to not spraying mud/grit at your own bodywork or other vehicles. I also happen to like the factory look of a 90 with the full set of mudguards.

So, are there any options for quick dismount guards that are secure enough to ensure they don't dismount at 70mph? I was thinking of a simple cotter pin/R clip arrangement (pins pointing down through chassis holes, clips on the bottom end supporting the mounts). For this to work, I will need to find pins the right length tol hold the mountings tight against the outriggers as I don't want flappy flaps but I suspect there aren't many pins that will take a stout-enough clip in the M6-size, so would need to enlarge the holes in everything to fit bigger pins.

Before I go making decisions I have to live with, are there any other options people have gone with?

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https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/mud-shields-flaps/

I fitted a full set of Gywn Lewis mudflaps and mudshields to my 110 hardtop last year.

The rear mudflaps dismount in seconds when you want to remove them, and as far as unintended dismounting goes, I'm sure I hit 70mph once and they didn't fall off 😁 

The front mudflaps aren't quick release, and it would be a bit of a faff to remove them but then I'm not sure why you'd need to take them off regularly anyway. 

The rear flaps attach to a redesigned rear tub brace (you just swap the original one for the Gywn Lewis one) and the fronts attach to a new bracket that attaches to existing holes in the front wing and body to chassis mounting bracket.

No need to drill the chassis at all.

You can download the fitting instructions off the GL website so you can see what you need to do before you decide if that's the right option for you.

Hope that helps 👍

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Check my build thread out for quick release mud guard mounting.

In your case you could weld a pin to a strip of steel which you could bolt to your cross member for a quick release option.

Just found a quote by yourself in my build thread dated 2012!

 

Steve

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So what you're saying is that I haven't invented some new way of fixing mudguards but just seen yours and then forgotten. Yours are exactly what I had pictured, but will require much bigger holes being drilled than I am comfortable with!

Filbee - thank you, I'm going to fit the Gywn Lewis front and rear mudhsield kits in the next few months but I still want to leave the mudguards in their original factory locations. I think that should hit the right balance between not having to clean every inch of the chassis at the first sight of mud, while retaining a factory look that I am trying to retain.

I would be grateful if anyone can supply the chassis bolt hole locations for the factory mudguards.

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I have draw a quick sketch of what I thought you could do. It would still involve you drilling some holes, but only M8 and you may get away with 2 holes (I've drawn 3).

The pins for the mud flap brackets could them be drilled and tap and bolted in from the underside using countersunk cap head bolts.

Hope this helps.

DSC_5333.JPG

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