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Fellas

bit of a problem. So I went to grease me nipples. Went for a drive to warm things up, but on return i noticed me rear diff filler was dripping. Got me spanner’s out to see if it just needed nipping up and guess where the filler plug is now 🤬🤬🤬🤬

so question is.. is it just a case of purchasing a new cover and plug, take off old re fit new then fill up again ??

And if so, what diff do I have? Can anyone tell from pic or is there numerous different types ??

thanks in advance you bunch of life savers 👍 

6416F0B9-C2DB-43AC-93A9-7D7FD921C1A5.jpeg

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Salisbury diff on a 110, drain it, there is a plug on under side, remove the rear cover, retrieve the fill/level plug, clean of any old gasket materials refit the cover with a new gasket/sealant, would be a good move to obtain one of the magnetic plug from Xcess 4x4 before fitting the drain plug & filling with fresh oil, the drain plug IIRC is the same as the fill/level plug. LR part 608246

Cover gasket is LR part RTC1139. 

Cover is RTC844, no idea of price or availability  looks to be easily available, this one on ebay now https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-110-130-SALISBURY-NEW-REAR-AXLE-DIFF-PAN-COVER-RTC844-/121904364776&ved=2ahUKEwiesZW9lfbuAhVJURUIHb61BT8QjjgwCHoECAsQCg&usg=AOvVaw0c0Y_Dvf2RjOieJtlM6gQO

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You'll be wanting to add your A frame balljoint to the list as well soon. Gaiter/ Shield is split. Buy the whole assembly with new unf bolts, less hassle than trying to badger the old balljoint out.

Pete

Edited by pete3000
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39 minutes ago, Chambo110 said:

Jesus!!
You 2 are doing a good job of spending my money

 

note to self .. crop picture riiiight down next time 

better than spending my money :rolleyes:

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38 minutes ago, Chambo110 said:

Better sooner than later I guess ? What’s that bit do ?

assuming it’s just a case of undo castellated nut plus the 2 bolts and swap over ?

 

Yes, no need to jack up the vehicle, just chock rear wheels so axle can't move.

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22 minutes ago, western said:

Yes, no need to jack up the vehicle, just chock rear wheels so axle can't move.

And the same if i do bushes at opposite end of arms ??

I won’t ask polybush or gen rubber 😂

I’ve also just been reading Les post about changing. This place is great. 👍

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Well that’s that

diff ordered  

a frame ball joint  

superpro bushes  

dont hate me for the superpro ☺️
 

expensive nipple greasing day that turned out to be 😢

Edited by Chambo110
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Mine has superpro also, obviously chock the vehicle and put into difflock, only do 1 component at a a time, i.e either end of the axle 1 at a time then the A frame after or vice versa. Otherwise the only things holding the axle from wandering off are the shocks and the brake pipe. 🙂

From memory the castellated nut is a 30mm, which should come undone with a decent 1/2 inch T bar or good sized ratchet handle.

Pete

Edited by pete3000
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pete3000, you're forgetting the essential oweeeeey of skinned knuckles and accompanying swear words.  Nothing with a 30mm nut moves without them!  Best of luck with it, Chambo110.

Mike

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2 hours ago, western said:

My 110 has Superpro bushes all round, the ride & handling are fine. They are not affected by engine, gearbox or pas fluid. 

Good to hear Ralph thanks

1 hour ago, pete3000 said:

Mine has superpro also, obviously chock the vehicle and put into difflock, only do 1 component at a a time, i.e either end of the axle 1 at a time then the A frame after or vice versa. Otherwise the only things holding the axle from wandering off are the shocks and the brake pipe. 🙂

From memory the castellated nut is a 30mm, which should come undone with a decent 1/2 inch T bar or good sized ratchet handle.

Pete

just the A frame for now Pete but I will be doing others when the floor gets a little warmer. So appreciate the heads up 👍

1 hour ago, Troll Hunter said:

pete3000, you're forgetting the essential oweeeeey of skinned knuckles and accompanying swear words.  Nothing with a 30mm nut moves without them!  Best of luck with it, Chambo110.

Mike

Cheers Mike, my hands already look like I’ve been shark feeding and the neighbours are well aware of my choice language.. I’m sure they think when I’m working under the truck i have an imaginary friend.

 

just been googling the job.. as I’m doing the opposite end of A frame bushes aswell as the ball joint, can the whole thing be removed and work be done on bench? Seems to be a little discrepancy? Personally I cant see why not but I’d always refer back here first.

I think I’m going to start a daily soaking of plusgas while waiting on delivery of parts.

 

appreciate all the info as usual chaps 👍👍

Edited by Chambo110
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Yes you could remove the whole thing and do it on a bench but as others have said chock wheels both axles and prop front off diff nose in position to stop it dropping regards Stephen 

Edited by Stellaghost
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3 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Yes you could remove the whole thing and do it on a bench but as others have said chock wheels both axles and prop front off diff nose in position to stop it dropping regards Stephen 

Cracking info 

thanks Stephen 

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If you are doing the other ends as well you may need to borrow Mike's "special dictionary". The bolts will likely be seized in the bushes and the arms, ask me how i know. It's easier to undo the three nuts/bolts on the plate to chassis for each side once you've split the ball joint end apart then do each side on the bench. New nuts and bolts required in all positions, use 8.8 for the 4x M10x45mm and 2x M10x55mm (M10 nylocs and form c washers) and the 2x suspension bolts are UNF?

2x NY612042 and 2x BH612321 (nut and bolt) Make sure the head of the bolt goes in  from the centre of the chassis, with the nut in the small space on the outside of the chassis. It sounds obvious but if you assemble on the bench and bolt it up you won't be able to draw the pivot bolt out.

 

Pete

 

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On 2/20/2021 at 6:58 AM, western said:

My 110 has Superpro bushes all round, the ride & handling are fine. They are not affected by engine, gearbox or pas fluid. 

Good to hear Ralph thanks

On 2/20/2021 at 7:31 AM, pete3000 said:

Mine has superpro also, obviously chock the vehicle and put into difflock, only do 1 component at a a time, i.e either end of the axle 1 at a time then the A frame after or vice versa. Otherwise the only things holding the axle from wandering off are the shocks and the brake pipe. 🙂

From memory the castellated nut is a 30mm, which should come undone with a decent 1/2 inch T bar or good sized ratchet handle.

Pete

just the A frame for now Pete but I will be doing others when the floor gets a little warmer. So appreciate the heads up 👍

On 2/20/2021 at 7:52 AM, Troll Hunter said:

pete3000, you're forgetting the essential oweeeeey of skinned knuckles and accompanying swear words.  Nothing with a 30mm nut moves without them!  Best of luck with it, Chambo110.

Mike

Cheers Mike, my hands already look like I’ve been shark feeding and the neighbours are well aware of my choice language.. I’m sure they think when I’m working under the truck i have an imaginary friend 

 

appreciate all the info as usual chaps 👍👍

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Ok chaps

cover turned up today so I took the old one off..

anyone see anything from the pics below of anything I need to worry about. Can I do any checks of any sort while I have it open 

BD196C61-3DC0-4E8B-A813-2C1491A34996.jpeg

16049837-4FFC-4472-911F-BE276371908A.jpeg

F1337CB7-BB75-4855-B4C9-C5A68DE98567.jpeg

5FB42464-1550-4D01-BEE7-461ED9703AD2.jpeg

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If that rust, might be good to clean it off, looks to be OK otherwise, fresh oil & it should be fine for many more miles. 

Pretty sure my rear Salisbury diff cover has never been off & that's done in excess of 500,000 miles. 

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45 minutes ago, western said:

If that rust, might be good to clean it off, looks to be OK otherwise, fresh oil & it should be fine for many more miles. 

Pretty sure my rear Salisbury diff cover has never been off & that's done in excess of 500,000 miles. 

Wow .. 500k. Hope mine carries on that long 

very light surface rust. Came off very easy. Only on that bit you can see aswell ??

still, at least your reply this time didn’t cost me more money 😂

is it just any ep90 to refill? .. I think I read 2.3L .. does that sound right ?

thanks Ralph 

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