Stellaghost 685 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Yes ep 90 will be fine, it is a gear oil regards Stephen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 946 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Ep85w/90 or Ep90 is fine Oh sorry just cost you more money 🤔 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Snagger 941 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 EP90 is correct. Some use 75W where EP90 is unavailable, but it’s not as good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 946 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 4 hours ago, Chambo110 said: done some Googling and people are on about hypoid etc ?? What’s that mean https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiral_bevel_gear Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 1 hour ago, western said: Brilliant info Ralph i thought I had done all my learning. Then I got a defender 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 946 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Never stop learning, 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Appreciate everyone’s input. Lockdown spending is killing me. just ordered all new nuts n bolts, found the clutch pedal bushes in the shopping basket, so ordered those aswell what other problems will I find in that area ?? Lol 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Very last question .. maybe am I correct in assuming the silver lining thing in here has to come out. thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pete3000 46 Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 my before and after.... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 1 hour ago, pete3000 said: my before and after.... Pete Ooooh very nice. love a shiny bit. Had a bloody nightmare getting everything off even after soaking in plusgas for last 3 days. 1 leg was ok, I got the big bolt thru the bush out straight away and thought “result” ... I spoke to soon. Now everything is off including the 3 bolts and mounting plate each side. I just gotta take that last sleeve outta 1. The other 🤬 I’m struggling with, had to cut bolt. Couldn’t shift it at all, and still can’t. I got the 2 ends out of the bracket but I’m left with this arm piece with what’s left of the bolt stuck solid. I’ve clubbed the hell out of it but it’s not moving. next option is gonna be 🔥 cleaned up the rest of chassis in the area ready for refit. after all the work I’ve done so far I can honestly say I’m very impressed with the condition of chassis. Need to sort 1 front outrigger and a tiny 5p size hole on the main leg. not bad for 34 yrs old. I know I wasn’t in this good a condition when I was 34, which was a good few years back now. cheers again for everyone’s help. I love this place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Troll Hunter 127 Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 In case you're struggling, I've found the easiest way to get "the silver lining thing" out is to thread a hacksaw blade through it and to cut through it, being careful not to cut into the parent metal. Then use a sharp chisel, or even a screwdriver to prise "the silver lining thing" away from the parent metal, to which it will be virtually welded with rust. A quick clean up with some emery cloth and you can fit the new bits. Some grease may help. Best of luck with it, although you shouldn't need much luck since it's a fairly straight forward operation. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 5 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: In case you're struggling, I've found the easiest way to get "the silver lining thing" out is to thread a hacksaw blade through it and to cut through it, being careful not to cut into the parent metal. Then use a sharp chisel, or even a screwdriver to prise "the silver lining thing" away from the parent metal, to which it will be virtually welded with rust. A quick clean up with some emery cloth and you can fit the new bits. Some grease may help. Best of luck with it, although you shouldn't need much luck since it's a fairly straight forward operation. Mike Top man Mike I will give it a blast this afternoon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Snagger 941 Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 On 2/24/2021 at 8:41 PM, Chambo110 said: Very last question .. maybe am I correct in assuming the silver lining thing in here has to come out. thanks Yep, with Land Rovers, even the metaphorical silver lining is just another pain in the backside! 😉 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 Diff cover swapped over and re filled A frame ball joint replaced plus super pro bushes at other end. Pressed in by friendly chap at local tyre shop. Tried myself but bloody nightmare without correct kit. chassis cleaned, surface rust removed and treated thanks to everyone once again Pay day today might do hockey sticks next 😉 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mo Murphy 750 Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Go chambo ! 🙂 Mo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 946 Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 & you said it was us spending your hard earned dosh 😁 The Superpro bushes are good, got them all round on my 110CSW. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 (edited) 14 hours ago, western said: & you said it was us spending your hard earned dosh 😁 The Superpro bushes are good, got them all round on my 110CSW. 😂 can’t help myself. I love going out and taking things off and putting new stuff back on. I blame it on my parents buying me mechano sets when I was a kid. Been looking at hockey sticks bushes next.. what they on about wide and narrow? What would I have?? Edited February 28 by Chambo110 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 946 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Wide & narrow relates to the axle end of the front radius arms (hockey sticks) on pre 300tdi vehicles they were narrow from 300tdi on the width at axle end was increased = wide.So before you order/buy the bushes measure the width of your radius arms where the bushes fit, then you will know what bushes to buy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chambo110 48 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 1 hour ago, western said: Wide & narrow relates to the axle end of the front radius arms (hockey sticks) on pre 300tdi vehicles they were narrow from 300tdi on the width at axle end was increased = wide.So before you order/buy the bushes measure the width of your radius arms where the bushes fit, then you will know what bushes to buy. Ahh ok. So mines 1987 110csw. Changed to 200tfi by someone. So I would likely have narrow I guess then. Is there measurements to confirm ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 946 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Yes narrow bushes for you same as my '89 110, 38mm IIRC for 'narrow' arms just measure across the radius arm ends where the bushes fit that will confirm what you need. [if the axle has been changed to the later 300Tdi version then the axle brackets & radius arms are wider at axle end] These are the Superpro part numbers from GwynLewis4x4 website Front Radius Arm to Axle Bushes, SuperPro, Early Narrow Bush – SPF0126K Front Radius Arm to Chassis Bushes, SuperPro – SPF0206K 200tdi and Earlier, 90/110/130 Superpro kits 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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