Oily exhaust manifold

[Peaklander 353]

Hello peeps. Forgive me for little activity on here recently but I am still spending excessive time on the Honda CR-V, about which I posted some time ago.

I'd like to ask some advice on this forum as I trust the feedback.

I won't talk too much about the work I've had to do since doing the timing chain and cleaning the VN turbo, except to say this:

Pinholes appeared in a power steering pipe that needed to be replaced - easy.

This led to a co-incidental fail of the starter motor solenoid as I was bleeding the new fluid. On this car (Mk3 2008 2.2 i-CTDi with 262K miles), removing the starter is not easy. The EGR pipework, EGR cooler valve and main EGR valve, are all in the way.

However I replaced the solenoid and checked and cleaned the motor. Re-fitted it (but hadn't pushed the solenoid connector fully home - cough).

The EGR pipework was blocked. I had to dig it out with a knife, a vacuum cleaner and copious carb spray.

 

Got it all back together and then the starter wouldn't start still. So removed EGR again, pushed the connector home on the solenoid and then assembled and started only to have the EM light come on. An EGR related valve, (intake manifold runner control valve) was open. I have no idea why this suddenly happened but the cause was a blocked air filter in the vacuum pipework where it is controlled.

 

Then I ran the engine and saw fumes from the rear of the exhaust manifold. I had seen this after the original reassembly (after chains and turbo clean). Eventually I decided to remove the turbo so that I could look at the exhaust manifold. This was today's job and whilst I haven't got a cracked manifold, I can see a lot of oil (I think) in it. That's what I'd like to ask about.

Oil in exhaust manifold - how much is too much? It can't come back into the manifold from the turbo can it? I assume the positive pressure would keep it out.

Where else could be a source - I have no 'operating' knowledge of this engine. Should I look for a leakdown test maybe to verify valves and rings?

How much is excessive? Should I just put it back with a new manifold gasket? I honestly can't face head and sump off. It is an engine-out job to do both ends - I know that from the experience I've already had.

Any advice will be appreciated, as always. Thanks

 

 

[Peaklander 353]

I have taken the turbo to a local rebuilder and they are going to check the balance and see what they can do without replacing the cartridge, which they say probably won't be necessary. Hopefully they will confirm the seals or replace those and then I can be confident that it is OK.

I wouldn't have done this if I'd not had to remove the turbo a second time. I was happy with the vane cleaning that I did, to get the whole thing to move properly once again. Now though I just think that a second opinion after 262K miles, has been a wise thing to seek. It will cost about £150 and that is on top of a fairly hefty parts bill for the cam and oil chain kits, injectors, intercooler, power steering pipe, starter solenoid and all the service parts. A cheap car purchased with risk is no longer quite so cheap!