sgo70 Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 I'm trying to get my headlights to switch back and forth from high to low beam (dim/dip I think you guys call it haha). The catch is I only have a momentary ground switch on my control column so I figured a latching relay like the Durite 0-728-02 would work: https://www.arc-components.com/0-728-02-durite-12v-25a-latching-changeover-relay-with-resistor-2147.html You can't find these in North America as far as I could see so I ordered one from the UK and figuring out how to wire it is even harder. I was thinking the momentary button on the column would go to S, 12volt+ to 30, constant ground to 56, 56a blank, and 56b would go to my terminal 85 on the high beam relay. Does this sound right? I attached my CAD drawing haha. Thanks in advance, Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 Dim dip is a seperate system, not related to normal high/ main or dip beam as we in UK know them, Dim dip was bought in years ago to prevent vehicles driving in built up areas on front marker (side lights) only, it illuminated the dip beam element to about 10% of normal dip power so the vehicle was more visible, the law was repealed back in 2006 IIRC, eventually superseded by daytime running lights at the front, Dim dip was a unreliable system, my 110 had a early version operated by a transformer, in about 6 years I had 6 or 7 failures, when I found that it was no longer required, I disconnected the unit & didn't bother replacing it. You already have a main to dip wiring system fitted controlled by the left hand column stalk. I wouldn't bother adding a dim dip system, if you want lights on in day time either use the normal dip headlights or fit some daytime running lights, I hate these as only the front of the vehicle is lit, the rear red lights are not connected to the daytime light system, so vehicles can & do drive in the dark with no rear light ts showing a very dangerous situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 I had no idea that's what it was, I didn't mean to be offensive, hope I didn't come across that way. I forgot to mention I have done a complete rewire of the entire truck from front to rear as well as a Gen 5 GM engine/transmission swap and added a ton of other stuff. I have my lights running off relays and a custom Ididit steering column with only a momentary switch for high beam that just gives a ground signal when pressed. They don't have an on/off switch so I would have to add a foot switch or something which I don't want to do. The latch relay allows me to use the momentary switch and keep things cleaner and if I can get it to give a ground signal then I won't have to tear apart all my wiring. My DRL's run off a relay when switched ignition comes on, then my headlight switch powers up the headlight relay and in turn shuts off the DRL's. When the high beams come on I have it so I get full brightness via yet another relay. I really want to figure this out cause it cost me about $65 by the time it was shipped. I hate wiring, lol. Sean 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 I'd be ecstatic with your version of " I hate wiring" lol nice job regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeD Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 That is the sort of wiring job you don't want to cover up, mine are best hidden in all the dark places, fortunately there are plenty of dark places I presume the christmas tree symbol on pin 56 is intended to be a permanent 12v feed From reading the spec on that linked page it isn't particularly clear whether you need to momentary connect the +12v to 30 and have a permanent earth on S or have a permanent 12v on 30 and momentary earth on S I would try per your diagram and see if it works you should be able to use it the way you are doing but the original design intention would have been to have dip beam on say 56a and high beam on 56b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 Quote I had no idea that's what it was, I didn't mean to be offensive, hope I didn't come across that way. Your post wasn't offensive at all, it's good to ask if you don't know, that's why we are all here to help each other. other than dim dip, the other thought I had was were you referring to alternating headlights as fitted to emergency vehicles [not for private vehicles] this use a alternating control unit that swaps between left & right main beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 (edited) i would try the following: 56 - feed for your headlight system 56a - to your dim headlight system (relay or direct to lights) 56b - to your hig beam system (relay or direct to lights) 30 - feed from ignition to power the relay (or if you want to use the high/low beam option use a direct 12v from battery) s - to your push button (to ground) Edited March 3, 2021 by hurbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 Thanks for the comments, this has been going on for about 2 months now, I keep losing interest. I have to draw up a schematic from my pages of notes still. Hurbie-I think yours makes sense to me. I'll have to play with it when it shows up, they sent it regular post. I was going to try to have the wiring finished up so I can just plug it in but I'd better wait..........so close, yet so far lol. Thanks, Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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