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New Project


kevin50

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Starting a new build, 1970 Series Pickup. Got this one in first pic, Chassis is knackered but got another really good one in second and third  pic.

The good chassis has a 6 cylinder petrol engine on it but this does not come with it, I have a really good 300Tdi but cant really be faffed with all the alterations it will need to fit.

I might have the chance of another Petrol not sure if its 2.25, or 2,5   Question is will it go straight on to Mounts where the 6 cylinder was ??

 

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7 hours ago, paime said:

That chassis looks to be in remarkably good health for its age! Looking forward to seeing the progress.

it does ned a couple of tiny patches welding, but Im thinking of getting it shot blasted first to make sure there is nothing esle there, then repainting it Black also Axles which I will be rebuilding, ive done Defender axles so hoping these Series are similar.

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11 hours ago, kevin50 said:

it does ned a couple of tiny patches welding, but Im thinking of getting it shot blasted first to make sure there is nothing esle there, then repainting it Black also Axles which I will be rebuilding, ive done Defender axles so hoping these Series are similar.

If you've got one nearby I'd be considering splashing out and getting it galvanised after that, I don't think it costs a huge amount and it's the ultimate "do it once" solution.

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Series axles aren't much different to rebuild than Defender ones, different bearings, seals etc but the basic idea is the same. Major differences would be universal joint in the front hub rather than CV joints.

Don't think there are any compatible components between the two but they all fit in pretty much the same way, if you have done one you should have any issues with the other.

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Engine Ooot Axles off next then when Ive got the funds it will eventually get shot blasted then decide whether to send off to Galvanise . Definitely needs rear cross member. but one on other chassis is ok so will cut that one off.
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

If the chassis is in good enough order after the repairs and new cross member, it has to be worth getting galvanised.  The bulkhead would be worth having hot sink sprayed, if not galvanised, too.  These vehicles are only fett8ng rarer and more desirable,

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  • 10 months later...

Just an update on project. A lot done since last post on this thread.

Chassis welded and Galvanised , Bulkhead welded and fitted loosely,  rear tub needs work, the mounting holes front and rear are gone, got one of these for the rear Rear Body Mounting - LR Defender & Series - YRM Metal Solutions (yrmit.co.uk) but not sure what to do at the front, Any Ideas.

 

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The front tub mounts were similar on my 109.  Some on this forum have cut the area away and TIG welded in new aluminium.  I just cut the rot out and bonded 3mm marine grade aluminium (off cut from replacing the floor and covering the wheel arch tops) with PU adhesive and bolted through at each corner.   It is at least as strong as the joint between those plates and the chassis, so is well up to the task.  Drill the bolt holes through the plate once the tub is aligned with the bulkhead, using the chassis tabs as a guide.

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9 hours ago, Snagger said:

The front tub mounts were similar on my 109.  Some on this forum have cut the area away and TIG welded in new aluminium.  I just cut the rot out and bonded 3mm marine grade aluminium (off cut from replacing the floor and covering the wheel arch tops) with PU adhesive and bolted through at each corner.   It is at least as strong as the joint between those plates and the chassis, so is well up to the task.  Drill the bolt holes through the plate once the tub is aligned with the bulkhead, using the chassis tabs as a guide.

Thanks do you have any pics of  when  you done it ?

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20 hours ago, kevin50 said:

Thanks do you have any pics of  when  you done it ?

http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/tub-mountings/
 

You can see the plates on the rear side of the original flange, and the Defender seat belt inertia reel bracket lower halves on the front.  The outboard brackets have the upper half inside the tub with inertia reel belts, while the inboard brackets just have large washers and nuts and were purely for mounting reinforcement.

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On 3/11/2022 at 12:16 PM, Snagger said:

http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/tub-mountings/
 

You can see the plates on the rear side of the original flange, and the Defender seat belt inertia reel bracket lower halves on the front.  The outboard brackets have the upper half inside the tub with inertia reel belts, while the inboard brackets just have large washers and nuts and were purely for mounting reinforcement.

Thanks .

Had a go today, I had one of these what I got with some Defender parts a couple of years ago 2nd Row Footwell to Rear Floor Upstand - LR Defender 4 or 5 Door - YRM Metal Solutions (yrmit.co.uk) it is the exact width, cut it in half and cut one out for one corner. I think it will do the job once it is fixed in place, not sure weather to stick, rivet or bolt ?

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