Tom Grant Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Hello everyone I want to replace the old corroded bolts for all the rear suspension parts, bottom link, top link, a frame etc.. do these need to be a specific grade. Can they be stainless? I’ll be sourcing all the bolts from a local supplier. if anybody had any information it’s greatly appreciated. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Stainless is brittle, don't use it for suspension or anything load-bearing. Likewise higher grade steel bolts can also be strong but brittle. I'd be somewhat careful to use the right grade & material based on what's there from the factory - from memory a lot of it will be standard 8.8 grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Don't use stainless, stay with the High tensile 8.8 or 10.9 bolts. where in Cornwall are you ? there is LRP at Camborne Mid Cornwall 4x4 at Bugle Vanstones at Launceston all the part numbers in http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/5_axles_suspension_steering_p398-471.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Paddocks sell kits of suspension bolts. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 I am a great one for sourcing fixings from local specialists as I like to use SS (where applicable) plus there are some great savings to be made buying in bulk. That said, nut & bolt kits for suspension components (which are the correct grade) are cheap and readily available which makes them a no-brainer for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Clean up the heads, they have markings that will help you identify their grading/class, which in turn will also identify if they are metric or imperial. If they have numbers stamped on them (with a decimal place) these are the class and they are metric. If they have dashes radiating out these are the grade and they are imperial. From my memory, the A frame arms are 1/2" at the ball joint bracket and 3/4" at the chassis, the later being grade 5. The trailing arms are either 16mm or 5/8" at axle ( I can not remember which, again check head) The radius arms at axle again 16mm or 5/8 (check) Panhard varies and I cant remember at this point. trailing arm and radius arm at chassis should be M20 nut (metric 20mm) IF the factory bolts are grade 5, stay with that. Going to grade 8 will not be an improvement and may actually give problems. There were changes along the way of course. I already mentioned the Panhard (I think early types are 1/2" later are bigger) and I know the Tdci vehicles got some weird engineering practices regarding bolts for the suspenion (definitely different to the 300Tdi ) Early coil sprung Land Rovers had narrower radius arms and bushes at the axle end (shorter bolt). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Oh and a word of warning regarding aftermarket replacement bolts for our LRs. I recently bought some replacement bolts for the swivels, the double hex 12.9. These were stamped 12.9 and came with a larger head (17mm instead of 14mm) They also appeared to be galvanised. These bolts were DEFINITELY inferior to the original factory fitted Atlas brand, and well below the SHCS I had (probably only Brighton Best, if that!) I did some destructive tests with them all (snapping them) Where possible, I try and reuse the factory bolts, or buy the equivalent size etc in a known bolt brand. One thing that is hard to get, is the appropriate "grip" length (smooth shank) in the same overall length. I will usually buy the closest grip length and cut the overall length down to suit (Hacksaw is preferred) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 V2A is ridiculous. It's only advantage is not to oxidize in a lot of cases. Strength is worse than every mild steel. V4A equals 8.8 10.9 will never be reached Suspension, Chassis Connections and Steering are often 10.9 ! As there are a lot of kits and each single bolt available: No experiments please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 Just had a quick look at what I had laying around from my 98 300Tdi 110 A frame to chassis are 3/4” grade 5, A frame to ball joint connection are 1/2” but I don’t have original so won’t comment on grade. Radius arm to axle are M16 class 8.8. I no longer have the factory bush at axle for trailing arm so can’t say what that is. Grade 5 and class 8.8 are the same UTS - 120,000 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 On 3/31/2021 at 3:53 PM, western said: Don't use stainless, stay with the High tensile 8.8 or 10.9 bolts. where in Cornwall are you ? there is LRP at Camborne Mid Cornwall 4x4 at Bugle Vanstones at Launceston all the part numbers in http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/5_axles_suspension_steering_p398-471.pdf Truro Area was going to go to fwb at ThreeMilestone industrial estate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Yes FWB will be able to supply suitable bolts But they will not recognise Land Rover part numbers. if you get all the numbers from the parts book, then go on LRSeries website & enter each number in turn the results usually give the size & thread type in the info below the item photo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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