DC_ Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 I hope you’re all doing well. I’ve not been on in a while due to one thing or another. So I’m looking to replace my 1987 110’s fuel tank. Doing some rust proofing and the tank popped a pin hole leak. For the time being I’ll try metal putty to repair as a temp but I’m looking to order a new tank, gaskets and sender. So I want a decent tank..... what’s your recommendations? 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 whatever brand your buying , paint it , paint some more , and then apply a coat of paint to be sure ... new tanks only have a very thin layer of primer/paint 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Think my current tank is a Allmakes [now Britpart] it got painted with a few coats Galvafriod primer & then vehicle chassis black gloss on top, I found a galvanised stone guard on ebay, painted it, it chassis black, put a layer of sealant between tank & guard to keep moisture out, been OK sofar 7 years on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 I was planning on giving it the extra, extra coats of protection but I wanted to know if there was a supplier that produced a better quality tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, DC_ said: . For the time being I’ll try metal putty to repair as a temp Use plastic padding metal putty, I used this to repair a hole in my lightweights tank before i made a stainless one, lasted for years, sure there is a one for petrol / diesel regards Stephen Edit There is its called leak fix regards Stephen Edited April 7, 2021 by Stellaghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 The POR15 fuel tank coating kit has a good reputation and should deal well with pin holes and porous seams. It won’t help a structurally deficient tank, though, so whether it’s worth trying depends on the strength of what you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 Managed to finally drain the tank without risking the actual drain plug as I fear that may have caused further problems. I’m just waiting now on JB steel putty to arrive. If it does a temp job for now great..... then new tank ordered as soon as I’m happy I’ve exhausted all options on one. 😊👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 45 minutes ago, DC_ said: Managed to finally drain the tank without risking the actual drain plug as I fear that may have caused further problems. I’m just waiting now on JB steel putty to arrive. If it does a temp job for now great..... then new tank ordered as soon as I’m happy I’ve exhausted all options on one. 😊👍 JB Weld - better than baler twine and gaffer tape... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, Junglie said: JB Weld - better than baler twine and gaffer tape... That’s the one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 So the tank arrived today and hopefully the sender unit will follow tomorrow. Question, the tank that’s on My 110 2.5 na has a nut type cap on the small pipe just along from the filler pipe. The tank that came today doesn’t have the cap as in the photo . Does anyone have a part number as I’m sure I’ll need it. I’m guessing it’s a compression fitment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 The blanking cap should be on the forward short pipe, the one above the fill pipe is for the fill pipe breather pipe from the filler neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 The nut, cap & olive is item 25, 26,27 on page 520 of the 110 parts book http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/02/land-rover-defender-110-parts-book/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 Thanks Ralph, yeh I knew where it should be,but It’s still just the pipe and no cap or olive or union fitting🙄 Managed to find them on John craddocks I just hope they post fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 its a nut/olive inside then a screw on cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 Aye roger that Ralph 😊👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 Wee update..... hopefully get it all back together tomorrow if the nice postman brings the cap etc to finish it off. . 🙏 The cradle has also been treated to a good rub down and many coats of galiv and stone chip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Done!! The cradle (genuine) didn’t like the new tank After some persuasion it went on. Wow are they all that tight to fit? ran it for half an hour with no sign of any problems... will test drive tomorrow. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Good to see its all fitted, yes it's not a easy job putting a tank & stone guard together. At a previous tank change I used 4 cable ties to hold the guard & tank together while getting it up in place, I found them again when I did my chassis change nearly 8 years ago, still tight & fitted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 I only swore twice Ralph!! Well maybe three times. 😎 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 20, 2021 Author Share Posted April 20, 2021 Well it couldn’t be simple could it 🙄 after putting in more fuel I spotted the sender unit seal is leaking. How disappointing this is. So.... the locking ring with the 3 tabs on it, how far round do you twist it into place? I didn’t turn it all that much. Also, do you bend the tabs in any way to lock the ring in tighter? What a pain 😢😢 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 20, 2021 Author Share Posted April 20, 2021 AHH HA !! Turns out it was the locking ring after all.... few chaps to twist it clockwise and all good.... bloody Landy’s 🙄😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 3 minutes ago, DC_ said: .. bloody Landy’s 🙄😂 Bloody mechanic !!!!!!!! lol pleased you got it sorted regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 20, 2021 Author Share Posted April 20, 2021 Haha thanks Stephen 👍 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 Your most welcome regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.