Jump to content

Series 3 diesel stop cable replacement


Recommended Posts

I own (recent purchase) a 1983 Series 3 88.  Last week  the diesel stop pull knob broke off from the cable.....it was very difficult to pull to begin with.   I have a new cable assembly but am having difficulty trying to figure out how to remove the old cable and then route the new cable.  I have removed the steering column cowling and removed the screws holding the speedo/instrument panel and moved it out a little so I can see behind it....and the bundles of wire.  I have tried to remove the lower dash but I cannot get it lose ( yes, I have removed all the visible screws).  I also cannot find the little screw that the repair manual says to remove from the ignition lock assembly to allow the cable to be pulled completely out.  Has anyone replaced their stop cable and how did you do it?   I am really reluctant to remove all the wiring to the speedo/instrument panel in order to have access to route the new cable.   The repair manual makes it sound so easy but in reality the manual skips some detail that I seem to need.  Thanks,  Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum Jim

I've just had a look in my factory parts book and it's less than clear but from memory I think the screw is underneath ? once you do find it the cable assy. should just pull out complete . 

cheers

Steve b

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Steve,   Thanks for your input.  I have discovered that the screw you speak of is missing on my Series lock assembly.   I have not tried to pull out the old cable assembly because I have not figured out how to route the new cable assembly without taking the speedo/instrument panel out ( disconnecting all the wires and the speedo cable is a bit intimidating) so I can get access to properly route the cable thru the bulkhead.  Is there a way to do that without removing the instrument panel?   I have considered removing the lower facia but that too looks like a lot of issue.   Any recommendations on how to route the new cable is welcomed.....if  I really have to remove things to do it properly I will reluctantly.

Jim

Edited by 83county88
Link to post
Share on other sites

Attach a strong twine/string to the engine end of the old cable , pull through and then attach the twine to the new cable and pull back through . 

The speedo cable clip ring on the back of the speedo is a right pita to release - the outer ring has to be pushed across to release the tag but using the above method should avoid needing to remove it 

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Steve.   I did as you suggested.  Used very thin bailing wire and dental floss.   Worked well enough.   Overlapped the cable and the bailing wire a couple of inches and then tightly wrapped the two with the dental floss to make sure it didn't come apart when pulling it thru.   There was one tight spot pulling the cables thru......probably at the back of the ignition lock assembly.  Thanks again.

Jim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I figured it out.  So for anyone in the same situation here is what I did to install a new fuel cutoff cable.  The repair manual generally describes what to do so let me fill in the gaps.   1.  use a long piece of  very thin wire - thinner the better.  I used thin bailing wire.  2.  use dental floss to secure this wire to the end of the cable ( assuming you have removed the cable housing as instructed in the repair manual).   I  wrapped the bailing wire around the cable end by a couple of inches - not tight wrap as you want  to keep the combined cable/wire as thin as possible.  Use the dental floss to wrap the entire length.   3.  pull the cable from from inside the cab making sure that the cable/wire gets thru the grommet and keep pulling....at one point I met resistance (like there was a narrow port to go thru).  I pulled a little harder and got thru this restriction/port.   4.  disconnect the old/broken cable from the wire and using the same technique secure the end ( that attaches to the pump) of the new cable to the wire.  5 carefully pull the wire/cable thru the lock assembly - again a tug may be needed to get it thru some port.   6.  Once thru pull it all the way and get the knob end all the way into the lock assembly ( as if starting the engine position). this will allow you to slide the cable housing in until the end of the cable comes out the end of the housing.  7.  follow the repair manual to complete the installation. 

   I was anxious to try this but it worked for me.

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad you are sorted , how about a few pic's of your truck ? Everyone loves Series Land Rovers :)

If you feel like having a vehicle thread there is always Members vehicles forum 

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Steve,   I will post a couple of photos.   But first back to the fuel cutoff cable issue.  After I ran the new cable and hooked it to the lever at the fuel pump and before attaching the spring I check to see if the cable pulled smoothly....it did and without a lot of force required.   Then I attached the spring.....what a difference.....the cable was difficult to pull and I worried about pulling the knob off the cable I just installed.   Took the spring off  and the cable pulled easily.  So the cable pulls against the tension of the spring.....perhaps the spring is just too strong.....the fuel shut off lever seems to move easily so I have gone to the local auto parts store and purchased a box of generic springs.....will try to find one that has less tension and that I can adjust the length... and that is strong enough to allow the shut off lever to open as the ignition is turned on.     Will let you know how it goes.  If it works with a new spring with less tension then this might be the solution for everyone that is having the same issue of a difficult to pull fuel shut off cable.  

  Photos attached - taken by the guy I purchased it from in the UK.

Series 3 County 1983 front1 (3).jpg

Series 3 drivers side interior.jpg

Series 3 drivers side.jpg

Series 3 engine.jpg

Series 3 rear.jpg

Series 3 front and side.jpg

Edited by 83county88
photo problem
Link to post
Share on other sites

Very tidy 88 Jim , is it on a galv. chassis ? It does look like it had a full nut and bolt rebuild and repaint to original condition/spec.

I bet you were happy to see that when it rolled out of the shipping container .

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,  Yes, galvanized frame! And lots of other new stuff.  It is beautiful!  And everything works.  The seller did a lot of work which I am grateful for.    It does have some other maintenance issues -  new tires now on;  parabolic springs, new shocks ordered; working on a complete rebuild of front brakes, then the rears;  also had to replace the alternator pully as I found the original one was damaged ( cannot figure how that happened someone must have dropped it) and shredding the fan belt.   Also waiting on a new headliner and the side panels - the seller had the door panels which are not in the photos so those have been put on.

  What do you think of my spring idea for the fuel shutoff cable?   

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

The strong spring may be related to the routing of the cable - it should be a single wire inner . This needs smooth , large as possible curves to move smoothly , any tight curves will bind it up . Once you know this side of operation  is ok then the spring only needs to be enough to pull the stop knob shut when the ignition is turned on .

You can test freedom of movement by manually pulling the inner at the pump with the outer clamped to the bracket and the inner disconnected from the lever.

You got yourself a good one there , enjoy :)

Steve  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very Nice !

The stop knob should be pulled in by the spring when you turn the ignition key.

Pulling the knob to stop the engine should not be overly difficult.

Have a good look, put some oil in the cable and make sure there is nothing that stops it from easily moving.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,  Yes, galvanized frame! And lots of other new stuff.  It is beautiful!  And everything works.  The seller did a lot of work which I am grateful for.    It does have some other maintenance issues -  new tires now on;  parabolic springs, new shocks ordered; working on a complete rebuild of front brakes, then the rears;  also had to replace the alternator pully as I found the original one was damaged ( cannot figure how that happened someone must have dropped it) and shredding the fan belt.   Also waiting on a new headliner and the side panels - the seller had the door panels which are not in the photos so those have been put on.

  What do you think of my spring idea for the fuel shutoff cable?   

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank all.   I have checked the movement of the inner cable and made sure that the cable housing is not kinked and has large curvy bend --  between the bulkhead and the key lock mechanism is should be good although I cannot inspect it.  The spring that I had was a real beast and I suspect that it may not be the original spring but one that some previous owner put on.   I have tried to find the part number of the original spring and a source in the US but no luck.  I cannot find it in the parts manual nor can the guys at Rovers North.  Would appreciate if anyone knows the part number and where I can get one.   It just seems that the spring that was installed made it a two hand job to pull out the stop cable - thus the knob broke off.   I am experimenting with springs I bought at the local hardware store but it would be better if I had a factory original spring - cannot believe that the engineers at LR would make it difficult to pull the stop cable out.

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank all.   I have checked the movement of the inner cable and made sure that the cable housing is not kinked and has large curvy bend --  between the bulkhead and the key lock mechanism is should be good although I cannot inspect it.  The spring that I had was a real beast and I suspect that it may not be the original spring but one that some previous owner put on.   I have tried to find the part number of the original spring and a source in the US but no luck.  I cannot find it in the parts manual nor can the guys at Rovers North.  Would appreciate if anyone knows the part number and where I can get one.   It just seems that the spring that was installed made it a two hand job to pull out the stop cable - thus the knob broke off.   I am experimenting with springs I bought at the local hardware store but it would be better if I had a factory original spring - cannot believe that the engineers at LR would make it difficult to pull the stop cable out.

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have compared the accelerator spring Steve said is also used for the fuel shut off  with the spring that was on  the fuel shutoff  - they are not the same -  that spring is much stiffer so it must be the incorrect spring.   Now to find a source for the correct spring in the US.    

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have compared the accelerator spring Steve said is also used for the fuel shut off  with the spring that was on  the fuel shutoff  - they are not the same -  that spring is much stiffer so it must be the incorrect spring.   Now to find a source for the correct spring in the US.    

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,

   I ordered a new spring  from Craddock.   Might get to me by the end of the week.....paid extra for express shipping.   Thanks for your advise.

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve - This post is an update.  First I received the spring from Craddock yesterday.  It will not work as it is too wide, too short and too stiff.  Don't think I could even get it on.   It does look like the accelerator return spring but not like the spring that I found on my Series originally.   See attached photo.   I tried springs I bought at a local hardware store and they too were too wide.   When the cable was pulled out the spring would hit the underside of the plate securing the pump and not allow the cable to pull the lever to a position to cause the cable at the ignition switch to click into the out (shutoff) position.  The narrow spring did not have this issue.   So I am back to where I started - an old stiff spring that might cause the knob to break off the cable at the ignition switch and not know the correct part number to purchase a new one.  I suspect that all the 2,25 diesels had the same configuration so there must be a "boneyard vehicle" or hanger queen somewhere that could supple me  with the correct spring.  Are there any Series dismantlers in the UK that supply used parts? 

IMG_3366.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

You may need to have 20 posts to do that , advice mods ? 

Regarding the spring , I did check a 2.25 5MB engine I have in the store and it has two short light springs in line to the stop lever .

If you can find a decent spring supplier/manufacturer the tension required could be measured using a fishing spring balance to give just enough to pull the stop cable through to running position . 

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,   Interesting solution  - two springs.   That  might make it easier to attach the springs at the ends and then attach the ends in the middle.....easier to get ones hands there.   As far as the scale goes I will see if I can find one and measure the pull required to pull the cable to the run position and then work on finding the right springs or springs. That's a very clever idea.    It's also interesting that there is nothing in the LR manuals about any of this.    Sure would like to find an original spring from a dismantler.   Found one in the UK and sent an email but got no reply.  Can you recommend a dismantler?   Thanks

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy