gadget Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 With the restrictions slowly being lifted the need for a road legal car is nigh. I've finished off the necessary jobs and have a new MOT. Took it out for a shake down and all is well except things are not as warm as they should be. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the thermostat on our 2005 TD4, but want to run the symptoms past y'all before I commit. The temperature gauge barely reaches 1/4 travel, even after a decent run. Heater is blowing warm-ish air, but might as well not be doing anything. Coolant is new and has been bled. Running the engine from cold the top radiator hose is the first to show signs of heat. The reservoir starts to get warm via a small flow from the tiny feed pipe. VERY slowly the radiator starts to warm from top down. After 20 ish minutes I can detect heat in the lower radiator hose. During the warm up the heater matrix in and out pipes warm at roughly the same level. Switch on the blower with heat set to full drops the temperature gauge pretty quickly. Thermostat or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 TBH that sounds almost normal for a TD4, mine took about 15 minutes at motorway speed to start blowing warm out of the heater when the FBH wasn't working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 Did another 25 mile round trip with spirited driving and I'd estimate the top hose temperature to be around the 38-40C area. Temperature needle still reading about a quarter of it's range. The coolant system isn't hot enough to pressurise, pipes are still easily squashed. 8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: TBH that sounds almost normal for a TD4, mine took about 15 minutes at motorway speed to start blowing warm out of the heater when the FBH wasn't working. I didn't drive our other Freelander that often, but I don't recall being able to drop the engine temperature by turning cabin heat on full. This more than anything else makes me think it's broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 Finally got to replacing the thermostat on the TD4. Not the most fun job I've undertaken. Engine comes up to temp quickly now and the heater is toasty. Picked up the replacement from island-4x4.co.uk and paid for the "genuine" PEL100570LG part. The "genuine" part arrived in an allmakes pr2 box and has no markings other than the 88C. Make your own mind up as to genuineness if you're looking for one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 I'd be sorely tempted to send that back - if it doesn't have BMW stamped in it it's not genuine, even if it might be made by the same company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 (edited) I did consider sending it back, but... I'd already started taking things apart and didn't want to leave things drained for too long. There are no markings or part numbers stamped into the plastic housing either. I won't be paying extra for a "genuine" part next time if I can't identify the maker. Edited June 7, 2021 by gadget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 Just imagine what the non-genuine part would be like.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 Spot the difference? All makes PR2 = britpart standard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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