Retroanaconda Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 I’ve got some repairs to do to my tub, a new wing skin and some YRM repair sections to fit. As I don’t have a spot welder my intention is to use adhesive to attach the panels where the factory spot welds would have been, on the understanding that it’s structurally at least as strong if not more so. Any recommendations for adhesives to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 The ibex panels are bonded on with tiger seal. They run a grinder with a sanding disc down the bond line, add sealant then clamp. I've done the same using sikaflex 291. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Then a suitably sized punch tapped in where the spot welds were, just to restore the appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 On my new YRM 3mm tub floor i used countersunk blind rivets, drill for 5mm and then a countersink bit, leaves it flush and neat. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 15 hours ago, miketomcat said: The ibex panels are bonded on with tiger seal. They run a grinder with a sanding disc down the bond line, add sealant then clamp. I've done the same using sikaflex 291. Mike Is Tiger seal any good? I keep seeing it mentioned on forums but I've been using RTV for most things and seems to do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 23 hours ago, ThreePointFive said: Is Tiger seal any good? I keep seeing it mentioned on forums but I've been using RTV for most things and seems to do the job. RTV is for sealing rather than bonding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 I used Sikaflex 252 and flush mount aircraft rivets. I used the 252 to hold the aluminum walls of my trailer on without any other mechanical fasteners so I know it's strong. Sanded the panel down and did a light skim coat. "Sikaflex®-252 is suitable for structural joints that will be subjected to dynamic stresses. Suitable substrate materials are timber, metals, particularly aluminium (including anodized components), sheet steel (including phosphated, chromated and zinc-plated components), metal primers and paint coatings (2-C systems), ceramic materials and plastics. Seek manufacturer’s advice before using on plastics that are prone to stress cracking. This product is suitable for professional experienced users only. Tests with actual substrates under real-life conditions are required to confirm adhesion and material compatibility." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 On 6/12/2021 at 2:19 PM, ThreePointFive said: Is Tiger seal any good? I keep seeing it mentioned on forums but I've been using RTV for most things and seems to do the job. I wouldn't use RTV for anything except sealing joints in an emergency I'm afraid. I've never used tigerseal but I know it's what foers have used but it is a polyurethane so much like sikaflex. I have used 252 as well and again it works well. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 4 hours ago, sgo70 said: I used Sikaflex 252 and flush mount aircraft rivets. what tools do you need to use these aircraft rivets ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 (edited) I use a $20 air hammer with a flat rivet mandrel and an autobody dolly as a bucking bar. If you google or youtube it there's a bunch of videos. Just gotta go slow and take your time cause it can do a lot of damage in a second or two haha. I practiced on some scraps cause I hadn't done this in years but it's not too hard. It did get a bit messy but it all just wipes up with acetone. Sean Edited June 14, 2021 by sgo70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 Thanks all - looks like the Sika 252 is a good option so I’ll get some of that and see how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I've used tiger seal and wurth bond and seal, the wurth stuff is slightly easier to apply a bit "softer" but both hold well. You can get a pre primer for the wurth stuff too like they use on the windscreens. When I did the rear quater side on my 90 I used tiger seal and some rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 (edited) Big caution - whatever material finish (if any) is already on either bonding surface apply some of your chosen 'stuff' well beforehand and leave for a while. I suggest this because I've had reactions between both sika and tiger seal products on other products they *should* be compatible with which meant the stuck-on thing fell off! Changing the surface finishes solved the issue. Bit of a PITA as I'd tried to ensure compatibility before commencing. Recent roof adaptations were stuck using Soudal Fixall crystal sealant which has proved really strong (so far). Edited July 15, 2021 by Jocklandjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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