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ideal length of wheel stud? need measurements (Wolf rim/alloys)


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Good God! 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

so I just received my order from Shop4Autoparts

 

FRC6137 x25 aftermarket.

I open the pack and pull the first one out and think , hello, this looks a touch longer… yep, 50mm overall.

 

Then I open the pack more and bugger me , there are two different types, 5x the longer 50mm and 20x the standard 44.4 replacement. This is just too funny 😂 

 

I will say the standard 44.4 replacement look average at best but the longer 50mm look a nice finish and at least stamped with 10.9 and an identifier 

 

Pack as received 

5CB6229D-9FCA-41FF-9E64-5D952B9A518E.jpeg
 

The 2 different studs from the pack. 50mm left, 44.4mm right.

79D0B4DF-6D8B-4DDA-93C4-07159E8DCADF.jpeg

 

The 2 new and 2 genuine factory studs from my previous replies. 

575C5715-CC5A-4C94-A2F5-2723FB6DBCBE.jpeg
 

The heads of the 2 new studs. 50mm left, 44.4mm right.

279631DF-87AD-4AD9-92AE-73D5F5E3DC0D.jpeg

Edited by uninformed
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My god - just when it seemed so simple!

interestingly your shiny aftermarket one is threaded much closer to the base of the stud (the gap between the splines and start of the thread is less). That’s something I’m not 100% convinced with on the genuine ones I bought as going from your earlier pic of the stud in the rim - while it’ll be fine for thick wolf rims, I’m concerned about the bare section of shank causing problems if I ever switched back to 5.5j rims (really do want a universal stud if possible).

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11 hours ago, twodoorgaz said:

My god - just when it seemed so simple!

interestingly your shiny aftermarket one is threaded much closer to the base of the stud (the gap between the splines and start of the thread is less). That’s something I’m not 100% convinced with on the genuine ones I bought as going from your earlier pic of the stud in the rim - while it’ll be fine for thick wolf rims, I’m concerned about the bare section of shank causing problems if I ever switched back to 5.5j rims (really do want a universal stud if possible).

I don’t know why you would want to go back,  only 7.50/16 mount reasonably to the 5.5” rim. 235/85R16 crown too much on them. The 6.5” is stronger, has a better offset and gives you a wider tyre size range with good fitment.

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Ha ha - its because I spend too much time over on the S2Club forum obsessing over originality on my S2As and viewing my 90 and a future collectors piece. Yeah - you're right. In the highly unlikely event I ever did want to fit 5.5j rims/750s then I could always pull the hubs and fit the old studs.

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5 hours ago, twodoorgaz said:

Ha ha - its because I spend too much time over on the S2Club forum obsessing over originality on my S2As and viewing my 90 and a future collectors piece. Yeah - you're right. In the highly unlikely event I ever did want to fit 5.5j rims/750s then I could always pull the hubs and fit the old studs.

Yes definitely keep the old studs. 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just got my order from shop4autospares. I emailed them telling the 2 different studs supplied and if they could supply 25 of the 50mm studs. They were able to. No different part number unfortunately. Looks like it’s just the old near enough is good enough these will do from their supplier. Well for once it’s a win. 
 

@landroversforever my guess is you were supplied a 50mm stud for the part number FRC6137. 

853B6E29-D610-425A-BFA4-3867197FD56A.jpeg

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I will add, the new replacement stud has a head that is 1mm smaller in outside diameter, and the factory studs have a chamfer or taper under the head that seats in the hub, the new replacement does not…

78F25BD1-2962-44B0-BA75-85FEE383AC89.jpeg

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Without the bevel, the sharp edge of the head could gradually wear itself to the seat of the hub hole, so the stud would become loose.  You could step the holes in the hub to match, but it’d be better to turn the heads a bit to fit - I wouldn’t want to render the hubs incompatible with genuine studs.

Given the apparent quality issues, I’d want to have a new stud tested for tensile load; they’re a bit important.

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On 7/15/2021 at 12:39 AM, Snagger said:

Without the bevel, the sharp edge of the head could gradually wear itself to the seat of the hub hole, so the stud would become loose.  You could step the holes in the hub to match, but it’d be better to turn the heads a bit to fit - I wouldn’t want to render the hubs incompatible with genuine studs.

Given the apparent quality issues, I’d want to have a new stud tested for tensile load; they’re a bit important.

Yep. Not a fan of them without the taper. I wouldn’t machine one on them either, head is already smaller in OD and thickness. 

 

Here is a comparison of the AM 50mm FRC6137, a AM FRC7577 (Wolf/HD) and genuine factory FRC6137

 

the longer FRC7577 has the taper and an even thicker and larger head than the genuine. It will be a bit of a pain to cut 25 of them shorter but that’s life. 

C84C81F0-5388-4A5D-ABFC-C458CBAD3DA5.jpeg

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2 hours ago, uninformed said:

It will be a bit of a pain to cut 25 of them shorter but that’s life.

I might have missed this but why bother cutting them shorter?

If anything, throw a set of closed-end wheel nuts on to prevent damage/corrosion and call it good.

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13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I might have missed this but why bother cutting them shorter?

If anything, throw a set of closed-end wheel nuts on to prevent damage/corrosion and call it good.

Apart from looking like a lipstick on a pig, just something else sticking out more and a little more prone to damage. Cutting them will only be a pain once.

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5 hours ago, hurbie said:

or fit a very thin (6mm)  custom spacer between the hub and rim , so the studs are flat with the rim.

I’m trying to apply good engineering practice not bodge it up, hence why I swapped out the later hubs and stub axles for earlier versions. As above, cutting will only be painful once. 

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8 hours ago, uninformed said:

Apart from looking like a lipstick on a pig, just something else sticking out more and a little more prone to damage. Cutting them will only be a pain once.

Damage-wise, are they likely to stick out beyond your sidewalls? A few mm of extra thread protruding is hardly ruining the look.

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20 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Damage-wise, are they likely to stick out beyond your sidewalls? A few mm of extra thread protruding is hardly ruining the look.

They are at least 10mm if not more protruding through the factory nuts. (Have a look at landroversforever pic on page 1 or 2) 

Sidewalls definitely don’t stop foreign objects striking wheel nuts, wheel face etc. 

As for the look, I was more referring to the wheel nuts you suggested to cover the stud. 
 

but let’s just put it down to reducing unnecessary unsprung mass 😂😂

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Posted (edited)

@uninformed

 

You asked at the top of the thread about the thickness of the HD steel rims as fitted to pre-TDi defender 130s (127s). I have a set of genuine ANR1534 6.5J rims off such a vehicle in the storage unit. If you let me know what you want measured I'll take some verniers and will do it next time I'm up there.

 

Could I ask a favour? Looking back through your photos, I think you have access to a genuine FRC6137 (39mm stud), a genuine factory FRC6137 (46mm stud) and a genuine factory FRC7577 (56mm stud). Is there any chance you could post a photo of the three of them together?

 

I'd be really keen to know the measurement from the back of the head (or end of the taper - i.e. the bit that jams up tight on the back of the hub) to the start of the thread on the base of the stud. Its that gap I'm worried about in fitting my genuine FRC6137s to my Puma studs - I don't want to find that the steel wheelnuts bottom out on the thread before they reach full torque on the Wolf rims.

Edited by twodoorgaz
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@twodoorgaz

 

The FRC7577 is not Genuine, but the other two are.

From L-R

FRC5926 ~39mm overall length - 11.5mm

FRC6137 ~44.4mm overall length - 15.5mm

FRC7577 ~59.6mm overall length - 18mm

 

My 130 rims are stamped ANR5593, though I do have 14 of them so may have different types lol. 

2889B076-901B-4661-821A-FD70E3D157BB.jpeg

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