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End of a build. Looking for stainless wheel nuts


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New project build coming to an end. Finally. I'll be a softtop 90 on a new galvanised chassis with a rebuilt 300 tdi

 

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I am looking for stainless wheel bolts to finish it off. I'm told they're 5/8' UNF thread. 

 

Anyone know where to get some?

 

Many thanks

 

Hammers

 

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I am looking for stainless wheel bolts to finish it off

In your text you say the above but in the title you ask about wheel nuts, I would strongly recommend you stay with the normal wheel studs, as for stainless nuts then the 2 links mentioned by Maverik above would be the easiest choices.

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I've got some black ones from Britpart, they changed color after a few weeks to rust look.. Ordered the black ones from Wrington (link above), more expensive but look like they will stay black..

"CNC machined medium carbon steel wheel nuts with zinc nickel plating and black passivate finish. Tested to 720 hours plus neutral salt spray endurance to provide long life on the vehicle before replacement or re-coating is required."

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I’ll never understand the British obsession with stainless steel on LRs. Bloody horrible stuff

 

Poor choice for wheel nuts as above.

 

but just for your info they are M16 (metric) not unf on coil sprung LRs.

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Blanket comments like:

3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Steer clear of stainless, unless you like having to cut them off somewhere down the line.

and

13 minutes ago, uninformed said:

I’ll never understand the British obsession with stainless steel on LRs. Bloody horrible stuff

 

Poor choice for wheel nuts as above.

are not particularly helpful.

 

"Steer clear of land rovers if you want to keep money in your wallet"

:pir7:

 

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Just now, Maverik said:

 

Blanket comments

....

are not particularly helpful.

 

 

Speaking purely in the context of wheel nuts here.

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20 minutes ago, Maverik said:

In all your own opinions.

I've got a lot of stainless fixing on my truck and I have had zero problems.

Electrolysis is not an opinion. Different Steel make up and it’s attributes to a given task are not opinion.

If it makes you feel warm and fuzzy, go with it. I can not with good conscious recommend it. 

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Thanks for the advice. Asked about those ebay ones specifically. He said they're M16 not 5/8'. As an imperial newbie, as that nearly the same thing? 

 

As for the "Don't go stainless" advice, i'm listening. Don't want to have to grind off, or worse have something fall off.

To put the question a different way, I have gone to almost every length to make sure that everything new that goes on it, won't rust. Where can I get nuts that will match the stainless elsewhere that won't go orange and crusty. 

 

Thanks again

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51 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Steer clear of stainless, unless you like having to cut them off somewhere down the line.

Not if its stainless onto another material. It's Stainless on Stainless that can gall up (and not every time). We use stainless on everything at work because we have to have items that are non magnetic near the machine. It doesn't take anything more than a light coating of graphite to stop the galling either.

I'm not a fan of stainless through ali on Land rovers for the corrosion reasons (without a lot of thought on isolation), but see no issue with 316 wheel nuts.

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You can’t mix UNF and metric threads - you need the correct ones.

The steel wheels will rust anyway where the nuts destroy the paint as they’re done up - there’s no way to avoid this, so I would just use normal wheel nuts. However the Wrington link above would be the solution if you’re really keen.

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Unless the studs are stainless (which they won't be - that's a really bad idea) then you risk making the corrosion worse by putting stainless nuts on carbon steel studs. If you want to minimise any corrosion, use standard steel nuts on standard steel studs and spray everything with anti-sieze grease as you assemble it. 

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53 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Get some Galv or zinc plated wheel nuts.

Mo

Thanks. I'm still confused at to whether they're 5/8' for M16. I'll have a look for some zinc coated one or anti sieze some standard ones and change them when they go off

 

Hammers

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30 minutes ago, Hammers said:

Thanks. I'm still confused at to whether they're 5/8' for M16. I'll have a look for some zinc coated one or anti sieze some standard ones and change them when they go off

 

Hammers

They will definitely be M16 and not imperial at that age. 1.5mm pitch if I remember correctly. 

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