nornir Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Hey guys new to the forum and defenders in general, looking to buy my first one and these are the pictures I have to work with The model is a 1997 defender 90 300tdi and was wondering if you guys see any glaring faults The guy is asking 16500 euros which is fairly pricy, let me know what you guys think. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy996 Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 From the pictures you have provided, it looks pretty good, but Defenders can be tarted up very easily, so bitter experience suggests being cautious. The cost seems huge, but I guess that is local market issues. Is the front bulkhead perfect and is it steel? Test with a magnet. What state is the rear crossmember in? Test with a magnet. Is it dripping oil anywhere? From where and how much? Does it start easily and does it smoke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 (edited) I would say that looks to be in pretty good nick for a 1997 vehicle. The price might be quite fair if there's evidence of work done, for example the shock turrets look surprisingly good for a 24 year old vehicle. If it's been well looked after (as it seems to have) then it looks like a good buy - whether the price is fair will depend on your own thoughts and the local market. Edited July 13, 2021 by Northwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 I bought a 1996 110 for a bit too much money as it was supposed to have been overhauled by the guy running a business that did that sort of thing, then selling on. I should have known better but I was crazy busy working and living away. I didn’t have time or enough knowledge to ‘go through it’, even though I had restored an 88”. That vehicle was a total basket case so my £250 (in 2003) was money spent ok. This is a list of the essentials that I did in the first year: New shocks as it bounced all over Front discs. They were worn below the minimum thickness. New calipers and pads because the pistons were stuck and it was easy to do Front hockystick bushes were loose but this took some time to find. Ended up replacing all bushes. The internal lights and alarm didn’t work properly. That took some sorting Tub cappings looked ok until I drilled for a swing away carrier (spare wheel) then I found they were rusty under the paint Chassis was ok for a few years but I did replace Eventually I had to do the footwells and repairs higher up on driver’s side bulkhead The engine was in good nick but even so I bought it without a full history What’s my message? Look at the vehicle as much as you can but be prepared for repairs (costs) that you can’t see at purchase and try to factor that in to the price if you are at all unsure of maintenance history. If the seller can show you invoices for maintenance then that would be brilliant I can do so for my vehicle now and if I ever sell it will be useful I feel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 For the mileage recorded that looks in remarkably good condition , is it from a warm , dry region that never sees road salt in the winter ? Things to look for (apart from listed above ) Chassis pull the rubber bungs from the front jacking holes under the bumper at the front of each chassis rail and check for internal rust check the bulkhead outriggers ( mud inside on your pic) for rust on lower and upper faces check around the crossmember forward of the rear axle that holds the rear axle A frame for rust at chassis rail joints check rear crossmember around the inside lower edges near tow bracket and both outer ends Bulkhead Lift the mats and check the footwellls for rust Check the top corners inside at edges of dash and outside for filler or rust check the top rail between vents and screen for rust Doors check the steel inner frames - mainly the lower sections bodywork check the lower rear corners of the seat box for aluminium corrosion and also the lower edge that bolts to the sill bar - also check the sill bar for rust check the rear tub (body lower half) for ally corrosion around forward mounts on the tube outriggers check the rear body cappings for rust - mainly the rear corners and the short sections across the rear Transmission check for crunchy gear changes 2nd often shows signs of wear in the syncro hub check for excessive clunks or slack between 1st movement and reverse movement check low range selects easily and the difflock works with warning light function Engine Don't be put off by the mileage - a good service history adds confidence but not essential . It should happily get up to 70 mph when warm and return around 28-30 mpg . Also - welcome to the forum and Land Rovers , once you have been bitten there is little chance of recovery Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Consider your absolute top budget for a land rover. Save some back for repairs (brakes, bushes, suspension). Save a bit more back for a good service (oils, filters, cam belt if not sure when it was last done, coolant, brake fluid). Save some more back for any modications you might want to do. Then decide what you have left to spend for buying the vehicle. An older one in good condition is a better buy than a newer one in okay condition. Don't overlook the tyres. A full set of tyres worth having can set you back a lot of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red110 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 On 7/13/2021 at 8:51 PM, steve b said: For the mileage recorded that looks in remarkably good condition , is it from a warm , dry region that never sees road salt in the winter ? Things to look for (apart from listed above ) Chassis pull the rubber bungs from the front jacking holes under the bumper at the front of each chassis rail and check for internal rust check the bulkhead outriggers ( mud inside on your pic) for rust on lower and upper faces check around the crossmember forward of the rear axle that holds the rear axle A frame for rust at chassis rail joints check rear crossmember around the inside lower edges near tow bracket and both outer ends Bulkhead Lift the mats and check the footwellls for rust Check the top corners inside at edges of dash and outside for filler or rust check the top rail between vents and screen for rust Doors check the steel inner frames - mainly the lower sections bodywork check the lower rear corners of the seat box for aluminium corrosion and also the lower edge that bolts to the sill bar - also check the sill bar for rust check the rear tub (body lower half) for ally corrosion around forward mounts on the tube outriggers check the rear body cappings for rust - mainly the rear corners and the short sections across the rear Transmission check for crunchy gear changes 2nd often shows signs of wear in the syncro hub check for excessive clunks or slack between 1st movement and reverse movement check low range selects easily and the difflock works with warning light function Engine Don't be put off by the mileage - a good service history adds confidence but not essential . It should happily get up to 70 mph when warm and return around 28-30 mpg . Also - welcome to the forum and Land Rovers , once you have been bitten there is little chance of recovery Steve The plates are from Jaen, in Andalusia, Southern Spain and far away from the sea. Very dry place and not cold in the winter. If the Defender has spent its life there, the odds are it is totally rust-free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightning Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 So, have you bought the Land Rover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymarsden Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 (edited) It seems to be in good condition but have you tried to check online about its history reports because looks can be deceiving. Just saying. It’s always better to be one step ahead when buying a second hand vehicle. There’s rapidcarcheck.co.uk to check everything out about that vehicle. to be of more help, I have a spare code from a bulk pack I bought from them. Pm me if you want? Edited August 12, 2021 by jaymarsden wrong spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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