missingsid Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 At last a TD vs V8 topic with useful comments and observations. Western has good comparison comments that allow informed decisions to be made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rednaxela Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 (edited) Long may it continue? @western Referring back to the OP, I'll add that the exhaust valve head serving cylinder 5 was black in appearance unlike the other 7 exhaust valves which have the correct/normal light brown carbon appearance. It is also pretty hard to scrap clean (as well as the inlet valve) unlike the other 14 valves where the carbon could be easily removed with a slot head screwdriver. The cylinder 5 exhaust port in the head also has an oily/wet residue whereas the others are all 'dry' looking. Wonder how this relates to the possibility of water getting in to cylinder 5? Also another finding... When cleaning the pistons, no. 7 piston cleaned up pretty quickly whereas the others (excluding the already clean no. 5, obviously) took much more effort to remove the carbon. Edited August 23, 2021 by rednaxela Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 1 hour ago, rednaxela said: Wonder how this relates to the possibility of water getting in to cylinder 5? Very sticky black residue sounds more like oil being burnt in that cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 In my experience the exhaust valve is also cleaned both sides, and the inlet on the cylinder side. Back of inlet will still be dirty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rednaxela Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 The local engineering/machine shops I've contacted don't seem too interested in top hating a rover block.🤔 I'd rather use someone like ACR/Turners/V8 developments/John Eales anyway, but being on the other side of the Irish Sea, I'm now currently just not willing to get ripped off with delivery costs for works on an engine I haven't even used yet. So I'm hoping that this could still miraculously end up not being a cracked block; as mentioned I did like bowie/elbekko's suggestion that it could be oil/ or a problematic injector. After all, it seems to be a warranty replacement block/engine and the odometer reading from the vehicle of 113k will be more than the engine's done, surely it may have been assembled with a bit more thought in order to help prevent the issues which negated its fitting 🤣? The bottom of the head-bolt hole next to where smallfry suggested the 'crack' could be is a bit dirty, couldn't be that there could be a crack there, coolant getting in, working up the threads by capillary action and seeping under the gasket where the heavy varnishing is, and into the cylinder? The close up photo of the possible crack also shows a little ding and scores, but there are plenty of those all over the block surface. I'd probably reassemble with studs, rather than head bolts, as I've read that torquing the stretch bolts could also put huge strain on the block, causing cracks. The valves/springs/seals all look to be in similar condition, what should cause the ones pictured from cylinder 5 to be like this? Hopefully not the effects of steam? 😬 Also, the cam bearings haven't moved, have they? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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