Madcowz Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Hi, I removed the seat belt brackets from my rear tub and ended up sweeping a fair bit of my wheel box off the drive as it had magically turned to dust. What's my best option for repair? I had a look at YRM to see if they do a panel but couldn't find anything. Should I just get a sheet cut to size and rivet it over the top or is there are more elegant repair? Thanks, Heds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 1, 2021 Share Posted August 1, 2021 I bonded 3mm marine grade alloy over mine. They didn’t have the corrosion, being a Birmabrite on a 109, but did have bolt holes and spare wheel well apertures to cover. I used PU adhesive (specifically Tiger Seal), which binds astonishingly strongly. That’d be more than strong enough, and will give a neat and smooth finish as long as you do the edges neatly. It’ll also keep any moisture out to prevent further corrosion between the layers. Just clean off the flaking paint and as much of the powder as possible first, and use a rust converter to kill the oxidisation before adding the layer, and apply plenty of thin beads of adhesive rather than a few thick ones as it doesn’t spread as easily under pressure as silicone sealants do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted August 1, 2021 Author Share Posted August 1, 2021 6 hours ago, Snagger said: I bonded 3mm marine grade alloy over mine. They didn’t have the corrosion, being a Birmabrite on a 109, but did have bolt holes and spare wheel well apertures to cover. I used PU adhesive (specifically Tiger Seal), which binds astonishingly strongly. That’d be more than strong enough, and will give a neat and smooth finish as long as you do the edges neatly. It’ll also keep any moisture out to prevent further corrosion between the layers. Just clean off the flaking paint and as much of the powder as possible first, and use a rust converter to kill the oxidisation before adding the layer, and apply plenty of thin beads of adhesive rather than a few thick ones as it doesn’t spread as easily under pressure as silicone sealants do. Thanks Snagger. I'm busy fixing the holes with Isopon P40 and mesh after using a rust converter and will see if I can find someone local to supply the sheet. Good call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 On 8/1/2021 at 3:20 PM, Madcowz said: I'm busy fixing the holes with Isopon P40 and mesh after using a rust converter and will see if I can find someone local to supply the sheet. Good call. Hate to say it but P40 and mesh isn't a repair, it's a cosmetic cover-up job at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 20 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Hate to say it but P40 and mesh isn't a repair, it's a cosmetic cover-up job at best. What would you suggest instead? Can't weld anything in so it would it be a new tub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 Remove the rot and bond in a new piece of aluminium, like snagger suggested. Bonding with tiger seal is good enough for a non structural piece of body work, in fact it's used in a lot of automotive situations for semi structural work. I'd clean it, treat it, then bond a full size piece on top, and then bond a second piece, full size of the panel, underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 47 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Remove the rot and bond in a new piece of aluminium, like snagger suggested. Bonding with tiger seal is good enough for a non structural piece of body work, in fact it's used in a lot of automotive situations for semi structural work. I'd clean it, treat it, then bond a full size piece on top, and then bond a second piece, full size of the panel, underneath. Thanks, that's great as that's what I said I was doing. I like the idea of another sheet underneath although the ribs will get in the way but i can bond in several seperate sheets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 Would riveting through the sheet, rib and top sheet be a good idea? It depends, I suppose, on how much damage is above the rib. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 I'll get a better look at the weekend. Def going to plate it on the top and may cut sections to fit between the ribs below for a proper job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 PU adhesive is used for bonding aircraft structures and skins. It’s used on airliners and fast jet aircraft that pull 9g+ with heavy ordnance hanging from the wings. It’s more than strong enough for Land Rover body panels, as long as you clean the contact surfaces first. No need for rivets, especially in the location being discussed here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 20 minutes ago, Snagger said: PU adhesive is used for bonding aircraft structures and skins. It’s used on airliners and fast jet aircraft that pull 9g+ with heavy ordnance hanging from the wings. It’s more than strong enough for Land Rover body panels, as long as you clean the contact surfaces first. No need for rivets, especially in the location being discussed here. Have you seen me drive? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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