eds Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 A couple of years ago I did my timing belt on my late 1993 110 200tdi. I used the special tool to lock the damper/pully which slid into the crank pulley and used the four bolts to secure. Tool external diameter is 95mm. Now I have started a mid 1992 90 200tdi timing belt and got ready to slip my special tool into the pulley centre only to find the pulley is of a smaller inner diameter. I want to order a replacement pulley which will be of the larger kind i.e. over 95mm inner diameter but there seems to be a lot of confusion over part numbers. I can confirm that this is the 2 belt pully. Can anyone shed light on the correct part number, my normal ways of checking have led to too many inconsistencies and I can no longer access Mircrocat as using windows 10. Thank you as always 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 I think generally the pulley is meant to be removed from the damper (the four bolts you mention) before the tool is then used to pull the damper off the end of the crankshaft? Often I’ve found that when removing the pulley (with a large external puller) the damper comes off the crank with it and then has to be separated on the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 20 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said: I think generally the pulley is meant to be removed from the damper (the four bolts you mention) before the tool is then used to pull the damper off the end of the crankshaft? Often I’ve found that when removing the pulley (with a large external puller) the damper comes off the crank with it and then has to be separated on the bench. I agree. It's much easier with the pulley removed. This is a picture from my 19J engine showing the crankshaft holding tool fitted to the damper whilst I undo the crank bolt. Far better access/visability with the pulley out the way. (Why I only used 2 bolts to hold the tool in place, I don't know - young and foolish?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted August 4, 2021 Author Share Posted August 4, 2021 This all makes perfect sense, I feel pretty stupid again for not being able to remember what I did before and for not working it out myself. I have just been out to the workshop to try to separate the damper from the pulley but they are pretty stuck together. I will have to get the pullers out again tomorrow. Thank you both for taking the time to help. Ed 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 Go easy with the pullers. Have you tried a bit of heat and gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet? I think I got my 200Tdi pulley off by carefully using a decorators scraper to separate from the damper. It was much easier than the 19J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted August 4, 2021 Author Share Posted August 4, 2021 I did try using a metal wedge and hammer to tap the two apart but nothing moved much. I have soaked in wd40 so will look again tomorrow. I do have a puller plate that might slide behind the pulley a bit but good call on the heat, always forget heat being so good. I'll try a paint scraper too..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 A Stanley blade is quite hard and may be able to be tapped in to free them from each other? Once the rust glue is broken, it will likely come easily. Eye protection of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Managed to separate the pulley from the damper using a combination of heat, hydraulic pullers and a metal wedge, took a couple of hours as following the advice not to go mental with the force. I have broken a cast pulley before doing just that so thanks for the reminder monkie. So the timing belt was on and was inspecting the key of the crank shaft for refittment of the damper and saw this.... I Any ideas as to what has happened here? Is it a definite sprocket off and new key job or will the damper bolt have enough friction to stop the damper from spinning. It has not spun in the past. I guess I know the answer already to that question, I just wanted to share this weird finding and see if anyone knows what could have happened. Ed 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 Well here is the culprit...... Looks like the last time the timing belt was done the person did not line the keyway up and forced the damper on in the wrong position and cracked the damper. Also it looks like the wrong key or upside down key was used......? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 I would guess they put the pulley on but failed to correctly align with the key (as you say), and then took Land Rover special tool number 1 to apply force to push it on which has totally deformed the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 Ouch, nasty, hope you get it sorted easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 2 hours ago, monkie said: I would guess they put the pulley on but failed to correctly align with the key (as you say), and then took Land Rover special tool number 1 to apply force to push it on which has totally deformed the key. What an absolute idiot - they must have hammered on the pulley to the crank - its a sliding fit, and then jammed the nut on. I would gently file away the remains of the Woodruff key so its flush with the crank, then remove the timing gear. Then you maybe able to grip the undamaged part of the key beneath the timing gear and wiggle the remains out. If that fails, then drill a series of small holes in the bit you have filled flush, that should release the pressure enough on the sides of the key to get it out. Probably needs a new pulley as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 That's horrific ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 Possible someone yammered it on with a big windy gun....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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