defender dinky Posted August 27, 2021 Share Posted August 27, 2021 Hi all, this is all new to me, but it seems I have a positive earth on my range rover classic, live from battery goes to starter motor live, then another live cable from there to bulkhead bolt,which is connected to a load of brown wires, on the inside, so if I disconnect the positive earth I lose all electrics, battery negative cable goes to chassis, this is so confusing to me, because I can't get the range to start, any info on this, could I change it to negative earth somehow, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted August 27, 2021 Share Posted August 27, 2021 Are you sure it’s not just an insulated bulkhead post that passes through the bulkhead. Description, plus brown wires would suggest this and the fact that I’ve never heard of a positive earth range rover classic so it wouldn’t have been factory. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 It was bought has a barn find, it all connects to a bolt which passes through bulkhead positive cable in the engine bay, and bunch of brown cables on the other, this is how I bought it, I was thinking of removing bolt bigger hole with grommet and connecting up otherwise, need to get it back to negative earth somehow, does this setup alter wiring elsewhere because truck won't start fuel pump relay won't kick in, headlight come on when wipers move its a nightmare,dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 27, 2021 Share Posted August 27, 2021 No rangies were positive earth, what you are describing is an insulated bulkhead post as above - it allows power to the interior of the car without running the battery cable through the bulkhead, and works as a distribution point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 6 hours ago, defender dinky said: battery negative cable goes to chassis All metalwork is at battery negative: ‘negative earth’. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 So do I leave it as it is, and my problem lies elsewhere, I think there must be an immobiliser on it somewhere, how can I find it or bypass it, range rover efi flapper 1989, read somewhere they didn't put inertia switches on this model, range rover was a barn find hadn't been used since 2008, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Yes, leave as is. Immobilised in what way? No crank, start, fuel....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 It'll crank for ever, no start, can't get fuel up, investigated yesterday and and took pipe off filter inlet by tank, and had blow back, going to take it off outlet today to see if fuel is coming through and work me way up to engine, my fuel relay won't switch, but switches when used in the other one by it, noticed in fuel mount relay there's no connector in the middle but have prong on relay, the relay by AFm does that one connect to coil - or + side, when ignition on can open flap by hand then hear fuel pump start up,dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 What's this, it was unplugged when I found it, mounted photo 3 on the inside, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 That's a headlamp dim/dip unit I think. For a non-starting flapper EFi rangie there's a load of common stuff to check and avoid fooling yourself - and there's a full step-by-step fault finding guide in the technical archive section. The ECU won't do anything* until it sees the AFM flap open (airflow) and a TACh signal from the coil -ve (white/black wire sometimes via white/blue wire and relay near resistor pack. So, first check you've got spark and go from there. *= Fuel pump won't turn on, injectors won't fire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 Yes, Old dim dip unit, unplug it & throw it away, a unreliable system & no longer needed. it doesn't affect any other system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 Hi, up date, I have something dragging battery down, a brand new one very quick, that's why question about positive earth, I have positive battery feed to starter motor terminal, from there to bulkhead,should this be insolated, 2, ignition on, friend opens flap can hear fuel pump, I get fuel,but no start, 3, ignition on have power at relay mount by AFM, and power at relay drivers seat brown wires, 4, ignition on have power at fuel pump relay mount but only on the white wires, nothing on white/purple or white/green which I believe is the switch wire I just altered timing, incase it was out 180 degrees, but waiting for battery to charge again, can't get to ecu because electric seat not working , dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 The bulkhead fitting IS isolated, it is a plastic bushing, with a bolt through the middle, making the electrical connection. As above, check the tech archive for the flapper diagnostics and run through step by step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 Sounds like this vehicle has a factory fitted split charge system fitted, these have 2 insulated terminal post that pass through the body metal but don't touch it as they are held in place by nylon bushes, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 No, this is standard on an RRC, Ralph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 OK, something I'm not overly familiar with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norseman Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 6 hours ago, western said: Yes, Old dim dip unit, unplug it & throw it away, a unreliable system & no longer needed. it doesn't affect any other system. Just out of interest(?) I still have one of these fitted to my '87 & it works 😏 Probably original, it's certainly not been replaced in my 13 years of ownership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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