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Milwaukee Mid Torque v's High Torque


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Hi guys

I'm looking at buying a Milwaukee torque battery gun / wrench but not sure which one either a mid torque or a high torque, I already have a Milwaukee 3/8" stubby which I use in my series 2a and don't have a problem with as the stubby will undo every single nut and bolt I can get to on the 2a except for the crank damper bolt ( 200tdi ) but just recently my son has bought a Disco 2 td5 and we have been doing a few jobs on it and the stubby either struggled or failed trying to undo hub nuts and top and bottom ball joint nuts and had to resort to using a strong arm with a tube for leverage or my 3/4" socket set so I quite like the high torque wrench but worried it will be to powerfull and cause more problems or do I go for a mid torque wrench, what would you suggest :)

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Personally for the amount of use you've suggested and the cost of even the skin alone.... I'd be considering other things like a better welding mask or other specialist tools to spend the money on.... that said I still do site mechanics with hand ratchets I only use battery rattle guns if they are supplied, simple deal my hand tools have never let me down lol and they get what the rattle gun can't 

But if you are going to get one, then the high torque 1, you can dial it back when doing stuff up but its there when you need it... you get a crank bolt that the mid one wont crack your left doing a dodgy that could bend valves, damage starter gear teeth or damage the crank pulley lol or throwing heat at something your don't want to heat 
 

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Is the stubby one only available in 12v?

I’m perpetually confused with these, as there are so many!

I have an impact driver - and have used that, not for cracking big fasteners, but for speeding up assembly and disassembly.

So I’d want 18v, to match my existing tools, but there are still tons of them!

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/brands/milwaukee/impact-wrenches/filter/18v

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The Hi Torque one is a monster both in capability and in size (relatively speaking). I've yet to meet a bolt on a Land Rover that it's failed to undo (or even struggle to be honest). The closest it came to failing was on some M24 bolts I think they were where it was hammering away and hammering away and eventually the bolt snapped (incidentally one of the few that it has snapped). Did the same on the other side. About half an hour later I realised I'd been tightening them rather than undoing them :blush:

The downside is that it is physically quite long, so for example won't get in to tighten the radius or trailing arm bolts because there's not enough space to the next gusset.

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On 8/30/2021 at 2:03 PM, Ed Poore said:

The Hi Torque one is a monster both in capability and in size (relatively speaking). I've yet to meet a bolt on a Land Rover that it's failed to undo (or even struggle to be honest). The closest it came to failing was on some M24 bolts I think they were where it was hammering away and hammering away and eventually the bolt snapped (incidentally one of the few that it has snapped). Did the same on the other side. About half an hour later I realised I'd been tightening them rather than undoing them :blush:

The downside is that it is physically quite long, so for example won't get in to tighten the radius or trailing arm bolts because there's not enough space to the next gusset.

Yeah i get that with trailing arms but hopfully should get in woth the stubby if not to tight and or tightening up, snapping stuff is my main worry but i supose i could snap stuff using a 3/4 socket set as well so would have to see 🙂

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I've snapped far less stuff using the hi torque compared to a 1/2" breaker. The crucial thing is the torque is delivered very quickly so serves to break any bonds. If you apply the same torque with a bar you tend to twist and apply it slowly so don't break any rust bonds etc.

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9 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

I've snapped far less stuff using the hi torque compared to a 1/2" breaker. The crucial thing is the torque is delivered very quickly so serves to break any bonds. If you apply the same torque with a bar you tend to twist and apply it slowly so don't break any rust bonds etc.

Aww right i didn't know that as i always thought it would be the other way round 👍

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9 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

I've snapped far less stuff using the hi torque compared to a 1/2" breaker. The crucial thing is the torque is delivered very quickly so serves to break any bonds. If you apply the same torque with a bar you tend to twist and apply it slowly so don't break any rust bonds etc.

Exactly this, only trouble is that using a breaker bar you get a feel for when you are going to snap it off and can stop/apply more heat etc but with the big impact wrenches you don't get that opportunity 

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