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Immobiliser bypass for P38, L322 and TD5


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I just saw this on another forum: https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/imobiliser-fix-for-bosch-never-be-stranded-again.349421/#post-2348622

Apparently someone has designed and built a board to bypass the immobiliser in the engine ECU for P38 Bosch, GEMS and diesel, L322 BMW V8 & TD6 and the TD5. Could be interesting for someone wanting to do an engine swap (and not fitting MS) or just for peace of mind if the security features are acting up.

I don't know the guy who designed and sells the board, I do know the OP is one of the regulars on RRnet and he seems like a a nice chap trying to help other.

As an aside, the BECM bypass that is mentioned is the same trick I use with MS in the P38. If the BECM doesn't get a response from the engine ECU it will no longer relay the signal to the starter motor after a couple of attempts. All that is needed is bridging the output from the ignition switch directly to the input for the starter relay, so the BECM can't cut the signal.


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I saw that too, ... probably put the insurance up though if you admit to bypassing it. Can't decide whether I am for or against, I have had trouble a couple of times when the key seems to lose sync, but generally mine seems OK. Nice to know it's available if I start to get trouble I guess.

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I have no real need for it, as my current Rangie is behaving, but I've had to use the EKA a couple of times on a previous one when the alarm would act up (for some reason, never really dug into it as it was only a spares car). If that had been my daily, I would have considered a bypass, depending on the price.

Back in its day the security system of the P38 was very advanced, and rightfully so. At current price levels I see very little risk of the car being stolen. Same with the security bolts on alloy wheels, not worth it unless you've got gold plated wheels IMHO. More likely to get a window bashed in to search the glovebox etc for a GPS or phone. My insurance doesn't cover theft anyway.

This does open up possibilities to run the engine stand-alone. The bypass should be a lot cheaper than an aftermarket ECU, so all you need is donor vehicle for engine, loom and ECU.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi all. Just found this topic via google when I was looking for something completely different in all honesty.
Thanks for finding the stuff I do and more importantly liking it as well.
I do most LR stuff up to about 2006 when they went to the Ford era. Not looked into anything Ford-ish... Yet!
I also do the BMW Diesels From the Early 1997 M51 (P38 2.5) through the  2000's M47 / M57 (L322) right through to the 2016 N47 / N47 as well as the BMW M62 fitted to the early L322 4.4 V8.
My roots are in electronics and off road racing which is where most of the standalone ECU stuff came from.
With the race community always building vehicles with some very cool engine setups I'd often get asked, "Fancy a challenge? Can you make this ECU work on my setup please?" and, well it's rude not to even have a look at it.
I have a basic website up with some of the stuff I do, but I'll await confirmation before linking to it. Some sites don't like that kind of thing.
Anyhow, if there's anything I can be of assistance with, drop me a line and I'll have a look about here.
Thanks all.

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  • 6 months later...


I would very much like a 

Electric Bypass Module to disarm warning messages on dash. For a L322 2002

I.ve fitted coil spring suspension but did not get the override module

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  • 4 months later...

I have a L322 Range Rover 2004 V8 gasoline that shuts down before it reaches the starter. B4 this happened I was starting by removing the positive battery terminal and starting right after I put the positive battery terminal back. I replaced the battery and now a total shut out. 

  I guess my question is Will an immobilizer bypass work for my situation? 

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