hurbie Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 hello all , my daily driver (1987 110) is fitted with a discovery 200TDI , the local MOT man noticed a engine leak and decided to let the car fail inspection. the leak was supposed to be "a leaking injector" , after some investigation it turned out to be a blown headgasket (very good fault finding of the brave man). so it's head of .... not to bad a job (i luckily can have a dry workshop space at a friend (the weather at the moment is really bad with rain...). the head is of at the moment , and i cleaned it and sanded the head , there are some minor scratches around the cilinder (not so much it wil get your nail caught) . now i have to decide to get the head skimmed , or just clean it using a straight block and some sandpaper , the picture is when i just took it off , the leak is at the back off number 4 cylinder , the scratches can be seen at the edge where the cilinder is. i also decided to see the state of the cambelt (i have not done a cambelt since owning this one , so it's about time) , that was just in time , the cambelt is worn on the front side of the timingcover (i tought that was only happening on 300tdi's ....) so i will see if the fuelpump has some tension on its rear mounting, and have a look if i can find something wrong with the pulleys. i now need some parts to fix it , but LRcat seem to mix up partnumbers between 200 and 300tdi ...so i hope someone can help me get the right parts . it's a Discovery 200tdi , and i have no idea how old the engine is (does the engine number be of any help for this ?) so i need : cranckshaft seal ETC5065 key cranckshaft ERR3987 tensioner timing belt ERR1972 idler pulley ETC8560 timingbelt ETC8550 valvestem cap (i will take that of a old engine, replacements seem to be carp) pushrod 546799 valvecover ERR2409 rubber half moon seals ERR765 seakl rocker cover ERR663 gasket thermostat housing ETC8007 waterpump RTC6395 waterpump gasket ERR388 are these correct for my engine ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted October 3, 2021 Author Share Posted October 3, 2021 tensioner seems to be the wrong one , so ordered ERR2530 , and have the head checked first thing tommorow (since it's my daily drive i need it working as soon as possible) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 You can check the part numbers with this Section 3 200tdi http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/02/land-rover-defender-110-parts-book/ Or online with this http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228/13789/16348 Defender 200tdi http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1231/29584/29833 Discovery 200tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted October 3, 2021 Author Share Posted October 3, 2021 thanks western , the top link is for a defender engine (seems to have some differences) and the LRcat page seems to mix 200 and 300tdi on the discovery 1 page .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Hi @hurb that kind of belt damage I would suggest is from a worn tensioner or idler pulley. I had this recently on my Defender 200tdi, there was noticeable slack in the tensioner bearing. In my opinion I would get the head skimmed, I'd also take the opportunity to give the head a bit of an overhaul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 It looks to me like you have hot gas erosion on the head. If so, it’d need a skim, but there is only so much they can do, especially on 300 heads, as they’re pretty thin to begin with. You may have caught it early enough, though. If the head is skimmed, rather than just cleaned, the valve seats will need cutting back a matching amount to prevent valve protrusion and piston contact. I agree with the belt tensioner theory, probably just a worn bearing on the idler pulley allowing the pulley to skew and thus misalign the belt. 300s had an alignment problem initially and needed a retrofit kit, but 200s were fine, so the standard parts should do the job. Unfortunately, a lot of people only replace the belt on the replacement schedule to avoid costs, but the tension idler (or at least its bearings) should also be replaced for this very reason. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 If I take a head off , I get it true tested, skimmed if required and crack tested, as well as getting the valve seats re-cut. It's worth doing. Last time I took a head in, it was only another £70 to get the ports opened up to match the gaskets - this made a huge difference to power delivery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 thanks for the reply's . little to late , went to the machine shop early this morning , they skimmed the head (made no comments on regrinding the valveseats) and it's back on ..... i now have to wait for the mailman to deliver the remaining parts (i do change the idler en tensioner) the fuelpump pulley was not exactly lined up with the cambelt pulley , so i loossend the rear bracket and had to put some tension on it to get it in line , when tightening the bracket back up. so i hope this will cure the belt issue . (i have a spare head (bought for the Eurover project) , so i can get that propperly looked at , so i can use it the next time ..) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 2 hours ago, hurbie said: thanks for the reply's . little to late , went to the machine shop early this morning , they skimmed the head (made no comments on regrinding the valveseats) and it's back on ..... i now have to wait for the mailman to deliver the remaining parts (i do change the idler en tensioner) the fuelpump pulley was not exactly lined up with the cambelt pulley , so i loossend the rear bracket and had to put some tension on it to get it in line , when tightening the bracket back up. so i hope this will cure the belt issue . (i have a spare head (bought for the Eurover project) , so i can get that propperly looked at , so i can use it the next time ..) If they didn't do the valve seats they probably didn't need it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Nonimouse said: If they didn't do the valve seats they probably didn't need it that's good news 👍 Edited October 4, 2021 by hurbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 13 hours ago, hurbie said: that's good news 👍 And if it did need them doing, you can probably argue a good case with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 (edited) so , another day spannering and waiting for parts , most of it arrived early this morning so i could get something done , made a giant cockup repairing a stripped thread ... the M10 stud the static idler mounts to , didn't quite make the 40NM torque , it felt the stud was torn out of the housing . so decided to put a helicoil in it , just to be sure .... in a moment of brainshortage i put in a M12 helicoil ..... the hole in the idler is only 10,5mm so that is not going to fit . after about 1 hour grinding with a dremel tool i got the hole opened up to 12mm ..... i think i need to find a replacement front cover for the next cambelt change .... another thing i noticed , the timing belt is really tight (if you put a torque wrench on the tensioner , i don't see any movement from the "loose" position) , i had to remove the tensioner to get the belt on . is this normal on discovery 200TDI ? the good news : it's running , tommorrow the final pieces Edited October 5, 2021 by hurbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Yes, the belts tend to be quite hard to slip over the pulleys, with very little slack. I believe the Defender 200 timing case is not just similar to the 12J and 19J, but identical. If that can be confirmed, it opens up another source for a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 13 minutes ago, Snagger said: Yes, the belts tend to be quite hard to slip over the pulleys, with very little slack. I believe the Defender 200 timing case is not just similar to the 12J and 19J, but identical. If that can be confirmed, it opens up another source for a replacement. Pretty sure it isnt the same as the 19j? If it is, i should have kept my old one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Externally, they are very similar. I remember some people have used them to convert Discovery engines to Defender spec, but I don’t know if they had to alter anything. It is possible the fuel pump bore and mounting studs differ, being a different brand let alone spec pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 @Stellaghost might know - https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108566-disco-200tdi-defender-turbo-diesel-defender-200tdi/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted November 14, 2022 Author Share Posted November 14, 2022 On 10/5/2021 at 6:16 PM, hurbie said: another thing i noticed , the timing belt is really tight (if you put a torque wrench on the tensioner , i don't see any movement from the "loose" position) , i had to remove the tensioner to get the belt on . is this normal on discovery 200TDI ? was helping a friend do his timing belt (this time a genuine defender spec 200tdi) , and noticed the same "tight" timing belt , again had to remove the tensioner to get the belt on , the tensioner is almost on the start (or loose) position when torqued to the right spec . (forgot to take a picture ...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 The tensioner is a replacement item when the belt is changed (ideally) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted November 14, 2022 Author Share Posted November 14, 2022 3 hours ago, Nonimouse said: The tensioner is a replacement item when the belt is changed (ideally) i know , i just put the new tensioner on only to find that the belt wouldn't fit , so had to take it off again . (no idea why they made it this way , the tensioner has more then 1 cm of travel left with the belt tightend ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 1 minute ago, hurbie said: i know , i just put the new tensioner on only to find that the belt wouldn't fit , so had to take it off again . (no idea why they made it this way , the tensioner has more then 1 cm of travel left with the belt tightend ) Land Rover technicians spent years developing that little annoyance 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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