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Handbrake: sloppier than a sloppy thing


fearofweapons
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Hi,

the hand brake on the 1974 88" SIII is very sloppy. While this is true of all the linkages ( due to wear ) the majority of slop would appear to come from the relay lever. It is loose in the chassis mounting bracket allowing it to flex and move when the lever is pulled; resulting in very little movement of the actuator in the handbrake drum itself (regardless of the adjustment at the drum)

I have tightened it up as much as possible, but it would appear it there is still a good 2-3mm of play between the face of the shaft and the mounting bracket. Looking at the diagram below I appear to have at least two extra 3299s and a raft of assorted washers between the nut and the mounting plate. Also when tightening the nut then 577137, the shaft, rotates - should it? I would expect this to be locked (but how?) and 238180 to rotate on the shaft?

Apart from replacing the whole lot ( wow that's expensive!) any other suggestions?

 

cheers,

Rich


image.png.5c46f42ff890eb6949bc7d4081959cf8.png

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577137 should have a pair of flats between the flange and the threaded section

577354 is a collar that fits over the bigger dia. section with the flats to ensure it all clamps solidly to the chassis bracket which should have a corresponding slot. 

Steve

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Also, several army Series had a mod where the engine / gearbox was laterally fixed to make the handbrake more effective.

It is also possible to create an hybrid handbrake that uses the Seriesdrum but is cable operated and very effective.

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1 hour ago, Arjan said:

Also, several army Series had a mod where the engine / gearbox was laterally longitudinally fixed to make the handbrake more effective. ...

The fix was a steel rod bolted (with rubber bushes) to a bracket mounted on a cross member. The engine tie bar 504606 was part of the kit associated with the fitment of an eight bladed fan, commonally installed to increase air flow in hot climates, or while the vehicle was stationary with the engine running to charge batteries used by radio equipment.

080_engine-tie-rod-26-litre-petrol.png

Regards.

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All many thanks for the replies and the options on fitting the bar or changing to a cable operated configuration.

I will, when work/weather/other commitments allow, get back under and take a look at 577137 to see if the flats are still there or have been worn away over the years by it not being done up correctly.

Hopefully it's just a question of realigning everything and making sure the flats fit into the slot and when tightened up they stay there! 🙂 If not I'm hoping it's just a question of a new shaft ( and maybe bush 218386) to get things working properly again.

I did notice there are two holes in the mounting bracket. The relay lever is currently situated in the upper hole. Should ( could ) it be in the lower one?

regards,

Richard

 

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The stub shaft should be in whichever bracket hole gives the longitudinal link to the brake actuator the most horizontal axis.

It’s possible that the slot on the bracket has become rounded.  You might be able to weld and file it back into shape.  The stub shaft can wear a pronounced taper, and the bush inside the relay wears out.  Replacing any worn parts will be transformative.  

As for the longitudinal tie rod to the bell housing, it’s an option rather than a mod, so nothing to affect the legality, history, legitimacy or insurance of the vehicle, but it too has an enormous impact on hand brake efficacy, and also helps preserve the engine and transmission mountings.  It should have been standard.

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Thanks guys.

@David Sparkes - the photo is pretty much my setup - although, as intimated above, my relay is in the upper of the two holes in that bracket. Also interesting to see that the handbrake gaiter is mounted that way on - the one we have points into the cab.

 

@Snagger - once I get the relay off and check the state of that and the hole I'll know just how much spending of money  / welding and filing I need to do! 😉 

 

many thanks all for your insights and assistance.

 

Richard

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8 minutes ago, fearofweapons said:

Also interesting to see that the handbrake gaiter is mounted that way on - the one we have points into the cab.

Photo above is correct :)

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Yep, hand brake lever gaiter is correct in the photo - it should be hidden from view in the cab.  Fit it the wrong way and it’ll be even more prone to tearing.  It’s a common mistake, especially when people compare to the Defender version.

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