Rear door handle Rain Shedder - Advice needed.

[PolarBlair]

I was looking at the back of my 130 and noticed the door must have had an impact at some point. Bottom hinge is bent inwards with the mounting point on the tub deformed. It will need some bodywork but that will have to wait.

For my idea to work, the spare wheel will need to move slightly to the right. I'm also thinking about a version which will work with the wheel in its stock position but its a fair bit more complicated as my wheel overlaps the recess for the rear door handle as I suspect it does on most defenders. Obviously made tighter if a wheel cover is fitted to the spare.

 

Masai Spare Wheel Carrier

Plan is to fit the Masai wheel carrier which would give me the clearance I need:

https://www.masai-lights.com/Spare-Wheel-Carrier-Extra-Heavy-Duty-Chassis-Mounted-for-Land-Rover-Defender-Series-3-p50047130

 

I know the offset position of the spare won't be to everyones tastes but I've always looked at defenders as function over form.

 

Rear Handle

 

Took a rubbing of the latch recess and transferred to CAD.

 

Design

On my older style door, there is quite a deep upstand lip so water just sits in the trough of the door handle recess. From what I can see, the only place for water to go, is to drain into the door skin. Surely that can't be a good thing? I notice that more modern versions dont have this lip and so water can drain more freely out, and down the outside of the door.

It wouldn't be an anti-theft feature exactly, but it would prevent direct access to the lock cyclinder. If it was CNC aluminium and bolted through the door, I imagine it could hamper a direct screwdriver attack. But for my purposes, I'm just interested in keeping rain and muck out of my door so 3D printed PLA is the plan. Then filled, sanded and painted to match the door.

I increased the overall surface area where it mounts around the recess so I'm considering just fixing it in place with CT1 to avoid making any extra holes in the door. I guess I'm relying on the bond of the paintwork, but at the end of the day, it shouldn't be under any direct load or impact.

 

Opinions Please

So is there a reason why this would be a bad idea? Fully accept there may be a perfectly obvious reason I'm missing. Also - thoughts on fixing method?

 

[reb78]

Its a good idea but I think it will be a right pain to unlock and open.... ?

Might be better filling the lip where the water gathers so it doesnt?

[PolarBlair]

Not sure what I would fill the gap with. It's pretty deep and my worry would be water getting between whatever is used to fill the gap and the door skin.

Should be plenty of clearance for the key and I open the latch like this:

So shouldn't really get in the way of me opening the door. Could always do a cardboard mockup for testing before committing to the print.

[reb78]

41 minutes ago, PolarBlair said:

Not sure what I would fill the gap with. It's pretty deep and my worry would be water getting between whatever is used to fill the gap and the door skin.

Should be plenty of clearance for the key and I open the latch like this:

So shouldn't really get in the way of me opening the door. Could always do a cardboard mockup for testing before committing to the print.

Yes, maybe try a card mockup. I just think the key hole is quite high up inside the cover so it might not be that easy - especially if in a hurry on a windy rainy night! If you had central locking it would be better. My door handle needs more pressure so i dont tend to push it up from underneath but rather pull from above!

I was thinking body filler for the gap, but you are right it is quite deep. What about a piece of plastic to fill it and seal around that?

[PolarBlair]

Central locking is also on the list!

But maybe I'm missing something obvious here. I could always make it a completely closed off flip up cover. Or even a flat blank plate that could be slid/rotated aside. It would provide even better weather protection and could be low profile enough to fit behind the spare wheel. Good excuse to get into flexible filaments for whatever weather seal I'll need too.

Probably not explaining it very well. I'll do another model.

[muddy]

Surley you could fill with resin?

[PolarBlair]

16 minutes ago, muddy said:

Surley you could fill with resin?

I'm not very experienced with casting resin but from what I've read the reaction is exothermic and a known characteristic is that it shrinks as it cures. If it doesn't go to plan and I needed to remove it, I'm not sure how I would go about it without potentially causing a lot of damage.

Another concern I would have is longevity. Is it UV stable? Does it expand and contract with temperature once cured? If it's rigid once cured, what happens when the door skin flexes?

I think I'd probably like to see someone that's successfuly done it so I could get some advice. Not sure I want to be the first one to try it!

[smallfry]

I can see locking and unlocking with a key will be a problem, especially in the dark if you have your hands full.

How about parking the vehicle facing downhill a bit, or a lot (your choice) then levelling it up side to side. This will leave the compound sloping outward when the vehicle is on the flat.

Fill with polyurethane electrical potting compound (black) TLC electrical sell it and its not at all expensive. Its self levelling and obviously waterproof, and does not shrink like polyester resin. It is exothermic, but the quantity you will use will not produce much heat. 

Bodyfiller absorbs moisture is left unpainted.

There are epoxy fillers that cure slowly and self level producing little or no heat, but if it goes wrong, likely you will have to ruin the door to get it out.

[western]

Or just drill a hole at each end to allow any trapped water to drain out.

[Mo Murphy]

14 minutes ago, western said:

Or just drill a hole at each end to allow any trapped water to drain out.

Surely it couldn't be that simple ?

Mo

[Bowie69]

Solution looking for a problem!

[PolarBlair]

4 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Surely it couldn't be that simple ?

Mo

Thought about holes but the flat bottom of the handle recess slopes backwards towards the inside. Holes would help a little, but won't shed water away from the join there.

[PolarBlair]

16 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Solution looking for a problem!

Yes and no. It's a very common area for rust. Plenty of examples out there with holes right through along that seam. It also appears that more modern doors don't have the same recess that the earlier doors do and the flat area no longer slopes in to the back.

[Mo Murphy]

6 minutes ago, PolarBlair said:

Thought about holes but the flat bottom of the handle recess slopes backwards towards the inside. Holes would help a little, but won't shed water away from the join there.

Seal the joint in the bottom of the recess with tigerseal ? In conjuction with drainage holes that ought to resolve it.

You need to drain it if you don't want water in there because even with a cover over the handle airflow around the back will get water into the recess on a rainy motorway run.

Mo

 

[PolarBlair]

1 hour ago, smallfry said:

Fill with polyurethane electrical potting compound (black) TLC electrical sell it and its not at all expensive. Its self levelling and obviously waterproof, and does not shrink like polyester resin. It is exothermic, but the quantity you will use will not produce much heat. 

22 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Solution looking for a problem!

Yes and no. It's a very common area for rust. Plenty of examples out there with holes right through along that seam. It also appears that more modern doors don't have the same recess that the earlier doors do and the flat area no longer slopes in to the back.

Potting compound is a good shout and sounds like it would fit the bill well. That stuffs pretty much designed to flow into little nooks and crannies like on motor windings isn't it?

Had a mate who used to rewind armatures and if I recall correctly it's available in black too - bonus!

[PolarBlair]

2 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Seal the joint in the bottom of the recess with tigerseal ? In conjuction with drainage holes that ought to resolve it.

You need to drain it if you don't want water in there because even with a cover over the handle airflow around the back will get water into the recess on a rainy motorway run.

Mo

 

Good point. Of course spray would make it up and in. I guess drain holes properly painted wouldn't rust. Part of me just hates putting more holes in what's already a leaky ship!

So far potting compound to fill in the recess feels like the best option. Albeit a messy mistake if I screw it up.

[Mo Murphy]

Just now, PolarBlair said:

Good point. Of course spray would make it up and in. I guess drain holes properly painted wouldn't rust. Part of me just hates putting more holes in what's already a leaky ship!

So far potting compound to fill in the recess feels like the best option. Albeit a messy mistake if I screw it up.

Or get a galvanised rear door like me, I don't like rusty doors either 😉

Mo

 

[PolarBlair]

Just now, Mo Murphy said:

Or get a galvanised rear door like me, I don't like rusty doors either 😉

Mo

 

It's definitely on the list.....one day. Creature comforts like a rear wiper would be nice too!

[Bowie69]

Design yourself a new stainless plate with a new handle that operates the existing latch, and just bonds into place on the door skin.

[PolarBlair]

3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Design yourself a new stainless plate with a new handle that operates the existing latch, and just bonds into place on the door skin.

Is it silly I already gave that some serious thought? Rejected it as I don't think my fab skills are up to it. Possible the idea in my head was overly complicated though. Fancy doing a little sketch of what you had in mind?

[Bowie69]

I don't have a defender to even look at to see what is possible! 

[PolarBlair]

24 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

I don't have a defender to even look at to see what is possible! 

Now what person in their right mind wouldn't own a vehicle they spend more time fixing than driving. You're clearly missing out 

You'll laugh, but the choice for the new family wagon was between the 130 that's on my drive and something sensible like a VW bus.

I stand by my poor life choices. No ragrets.

[PolarBlair]

Quick stab at V2. Last chance to see if this idea has any merit.

I havent designed it in yet but could easily recess in a gasket. The sliding mechanism should stop rain and road spray making it anyway. I have some neodymium magnets that would fit in the flat face along the bottom edge of the mount and into the lid too.

This coupled with the drain holes and a bit of tiger seal would keep it dry and let any water that did make it in somehow back out.

Low profile so would fit nicely behind the spare wheel.

This is a lot less work than it looks. Just send to the printer and hit go. Tollerance to make it a snug fit without locking up designed in.

 

 

[smallfry]

12 hours ago, western said:

Or just drill a hole at each end to allow any trapped water to drain out.

Then the whole rear tub will fill with water 😄 Remember that Land Rovers only let water in, not out ! 

[miketomcat]

Or you could just rivet a rubber flap over the whole lot. Job done.

Mike