Mossberg Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 Personally I would try without the rubber to start with as I presume it could be fitted later? Try it for a few weeks in different driving conditions, in particular faster driving in the wet. If it can cope with that then the other test would be driving heavy rain. If it can cope with those then I think you can say you have cracked it! Well done with the development. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 4 hours ago, PolarBlair said: That would be cheeky. Maybe still have defender but with Grenadier font? 😁 Now that the handle surface is flat adding letter and logo is a doddle (within reason) So yes, definitely an option to personalise to individual request. Will need to run it for a while fitted to see how it holds up before I dare inflict this on others! If only I had a tormach.... Haha. Clever! They probably own the exact word/font combo. They cant own the word or a dont though so i am not sure how they could force someone not to write Defender in the font used by ineos?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 4 hours ago, PolarBlair said: That would be cheeky. Maybe still have defender but with Grenadier font? 😁 Now that the handle surface is flat adding letter and logo is a doddle (within reason) So yes, definitely an option to personalise to individual request. Will need to run it for a while fitted to see how it holds up before I dare inflict this on others! If only I had a tormach.... Haha. Clever! They probably own the exact word/font combo. They cant own the word or a dont though so i am not sure how they could force someone not to write Defender in the font used by ineos?! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Mossberg said: Personally I would try without the rubber to start with as I presume it could be fitted later? Try it for a few weeks in different driving conditions, in particular faster driving in the wet. If it can cope with that then the other test would be driving heavy rain. If it can cope with those then I think you can say you have cracked it! Well done with the development. M Cheers! I'll see what clearance is like after a little paint. If all goes well I'm tempted to look at casting. More labour on the one hand for initial setup - on the other, better materials for this application, if blank has been sanded before casting, no sanding required in duplicates, eliminate the 24+hrs of printing required. Also colours cast right in. I've been looking for an excuse for some time to get a vacuum chamber 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy_SP Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 (edited) Well done on all your efforts thus far - I'm keen to see the final stage! I've just read through all four pages - it's a current subject for me as I'm having a sit down after spending the evening making a cabinet to go around my 3D printer (JG Aurora). The idea is to be able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the print. I've already made a load of other mods to it - mostly to stiffen up the bed support and main frames. Edited December 12, 2021 by Paddy_SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 14 hours ago, Paddy_SP said: Well done on all your efforts thus far - I'm keen to see the final stage! I've just read through all four pages - it's a current subject for me as I'm having a sit down after spending the evening making a cabinet to go around my 3D printer (JG Aurora). The idea is to be able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the print. I've already made a load of other mods to it - mostly to stiffen up the bed support and main frames. I would also recommend screwing the table to the studs in the walls and sitting the printer on a rubber mat. Mine is on a 20mm heavy duty rubber gym mat. Further improvement would be to put a paving slab under the mat too. My printer isn't enclosed but the cupboard it's in is tiny so stays warm. It also houses the boiler. This shouldn't impact humidity but does keep the room toasty. I use an Eibos filament dryer to house the reels as it has space for two, is automated and keeps everything dry. Roller bearings drastically reduces friction too so the stepper and filament are under less strain. Also if I go for a while without printing, it keeps dust off. There's a pic in this thread: I just tend to turn it on during prints now and the quality has improved quite a bit. No more pop or fizzle from the nozzle indicating moisture in the filament. I doubt I'll ever get into ABS as technology has moved on and there are more modern filaments available now with better properties. Also it's in the house and I would need an enclosure with a HEPA filter from what I've read to keep kids and wifey happy. Currently keeping my eye on the new prusa printer. That puppy looks like incredible value for money (in the realms of professional printers anyway). Will have to see what a fully specced machine would cost with all the trimmings like the multi head tool changer and enclosed chamber. Just need to figure out how to sell the idea to the financial controller (she who must be obeyed) 😜 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 Final part is here and fitment feels a lot better. Just need to prep for paint. However, sun is shining and I need to get a coat of paint on the rear door. Already seeing bumps in the filler again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Looking forward to seeing this fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 14, 2021 Author Share Posted December 14, 2021 Running low on paint. Primed and had a can of white lying around so I'm using that to seal the print. Will overcoat with black once paint has time to dry. Without a heat chamber, how long does paint take to fully harden? Really don't want to screw this up at the final hurdle by being too hasty now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 This should have been obvious from the start, but the skin around the latch isn't flat. Not by a long shot. The metal is also too flexible. I didn't want to make any holes but considering the state of my rear door, I'm calling it sacrificial. I don't think I could get the cover glued in place without the flex in the panel pulling itself away from the cover mount. Looks like plenty of options for fixing. I'll need to put a spacer block into the cavity so the bolt can go straight through to the steel inner plate and clamp everything together without just crushing the outer doorskin. The holes in the latch mechanism may just be the ticket. Top hole is perfectly placed and bottom will work with a little redesign. Loads of space above for two fixings, and plenty below too. Not what I wanted to do but could work out quite well and possibly even strengthen the part of the door I usually push to slam it shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 Did a little test to get better fitment for the countersunk screws. If the screw sits flush, it's set up to be painted over. However, I've read that stainless steel shouldn't be painted which creates a few problems. Currently the model doesn't allow the thickness of paint buildup under the fastener. Do I increase the depth of the countersink to make allowance for paint, or just use a countersink drill after painting? (That doesn't sound like it would leave the best finish and would compromise the coating) Ideally I'd like to use black fasteners but blackening stainless is difficult. Also couldn't find off the shelf M4x6. Does anyone know of blackening solution that won't break the bank? Smaller quantities would be good too. I don't really want to buy £60 worth just for testing. I should point out that these screws hold together parts that are permanently bonded. You would never need to remove them once they are in. I will likely add super glue to the threads. Even then, mild steel seems like a bad idea. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 Will zinc plated screws not suffice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 2 hours ago, Mossberg said: Will zinc plated screws not suffice? I think zinc plated screws have similar problems when it comes to paint. Realised I was missing a trick. I wanted to reinforce the connection between the handle and the lid anyway so killed two birds with one stone and moved all the screws inside. No holes externally so better protection against the elements. I'll stick to stainless and leave them unpainted. Have adjusted the countersunk holes to allow for paint buildup while keeping the head flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 Welp, I'm an idiot. Turns out magnets have this cool thing called polarity. I may have had to drill the baseplate from the back to push out and refit them. Pure genius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 All very creative, but wouldn’t it have been easier to make a void filler on the printer that would sit inside the aperture bottom to make it level with the bottom edge of the skin, perhaps with a slope for drainage like a shower tray, and then bond it in the void bottom with PU adhesive of RTV silicone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 24 minutes ago, Snagger said: All very creative, but wouldn’t it have been easier to make a void filler on the printer that would sit inside the aperture bottom to make it level with the bottom edge of the skin, perhaps with a slope for drainage like a shower tray, and then bond it in the void bottom with PU adhesive of RTV silicone? Possibly. I looked into the void filler option but that has plenty of problems too. The metal rib that sits behind the skin slopes down and in. The skin also curves up and over the internal rib making sliding something into the recess a bit more tricky. There's also the space to the inside left and right I would want to keep water from collecting in. I exaggerated the slope to help illustrate. Unless the sides pitch inwards too, it seems that water would just collect against the skin in the side recesses. Just filling in the channel in the bottom with an insert pitched in only one direction wouldn't help. Having just had a go at making a block to fit into the recess, it looks like getting the insert fitted without removing the skin would be difficult. The junction moves a fair bit too as the skin and the ribs move freely. Getting a seal to hold there would be difficult. There's not a lot of surface area to bond against. Bonding something in place only to find out later that the seal didn't hold would trap moisture under the insert. At least at the moment the skin does occasionally dry out. I could see that gap filling with crud staying permanently wet. I want to try and stop water ingress in the first place. But it has just occurred to me that a flanged silicone plug that fits the opening could also do the job. Maybe I'll explore that next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 Filling the void could have worked, though you never know until you try. However, having a 3D printer and wanting to learn and use it is a great reason to address a project like this. I think your design is great and look forward to seeing it finished. You will learn from this and what you learn will make future projects better. I make things from steel and sometimes its because I can and not because I need it! Looking forward to seeing this project finished. It is pushing me to order the 3D printer that I have been threatening to do since 2017. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 I think a filler of expanded polystyrene (less messy than the aerosol yellow expanding foam, with a plastic top for protection sealed in around the edges with PU adhesive would do well. Failing that, a resilient vinyl flap secured with a bead of sealant above the handle and secured down each side with Velcro, just like the filler aperture covers for MoD winterised Defenders would be a very simple fit, but not as pretty as this. I’m impressed by your CAD work, though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy_SP Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 The only reason not to paint stainless is due to the difficulty of getting decent adhesion - if you talk to your local auto paint supplier though, you should be able to find an adhesion promoter that will work well - I use one by Mipa; although I usually use it through a spray gun, in my experience the can version works equally well: 1K-HaftpromoterSpray.pdf (mipa-paints.com) Good luck with it all! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 (edited) Definitely not the neatest of installs - thrown caution to the wind and went straight to the tigerseal option. Ignore the terrible paintjob. Too much humidity so the clear coat wrinkled on the lid and for some reason went really hazy on the base. Turns out I'm not a very good paintist. But working perfectly so far. Sleeting down a bit last night and perfectly dry inside this morning. Will have to wait for a road test. Fuel connector assembly gasket gave up so turning ignition on results in a torrential downpour of diesel onto my drive. Haven't installed the o-ring for the moment. Will run for a few months and see how I get on. Edited December 27, 2021 by PolarBlair 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted December 27, 2021 Share Posted December 27, 2021 That looks like a nice result! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted December 27, 2021 Share Posted December 27, 2021 Looks really looked, well done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 Proof is in the pudding. Winter hasn't fully arrived up in the Highlands so it will get a good test below zero as well as next year in the "summer" months up here. By then I may just make another version either cast in resin or printed in ABS or ASA. One partial downside is that the spare had to be brought forward for clearance but no more than you would to clear a wiper blade. Not tested clearance with the wheel cover installed yet. I'll let you all know if it turns into a failure. Fingers crossed! 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 27, 2021 Share Posted December 27, 2021 If you really want to sell stuff, make one for the fuel filler Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 36 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said: If you really want to sell stuff, make one for the fuel filler Mo I thought they were all angled forward to drain? Depending on how well this works out I'm sure it could be done. Have seen lots of bolt on bits like hinged locking fold down doors for 110 filler: Just making sure I fully understand. Is there something options like this are lacking? Or is it the fuel filler on the 90 that's the problem? I know mine was a tad on the corroded side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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