xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Did a nice 200di conversion on my 109 SIII (1979) only to find out that the front propshaft hits the oil pickup pipe/hose on the 200di. The rubber of the propshaft joint is leaking now so I took the propshaft out. I'm considering putting it back in the other way around (as the flanges arent the same I'd have to undo the uni joints and remake the shaft the other way around. Anyone else ever got this issue? possible solutions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 just noticed it's not the pickup pipe but sump breather pipe thats fouling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Can you put up some pics please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Do you mean the turbo oil drain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 The prop shaft should just turn round , both ends are the same mounting flange . Not seen anyone mention this before , remind me , did you use the 2.25 engine mount brackets on the Tdi ? As above , pic's might help Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 first of all a few pictures of the specific pipe. (will go back in a bit for the mountings.) I tried holding the shaft the other way around but got the idea the holes didn't line up properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 (edited) it is mounted on series brackets bolted to the 200di engine. no welding / cutting needed other than removing the battery tray and drilling the bellhousing. Edited January 1, 2022 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 This is the hose top end, runs behind the oilfilter. The top of this can still needs to be connected to airintake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 (edited) Had another good look. indeed the shaft van be mounted backwards. that might just be enough..... Edited January 1, 2022 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 I'll put it in the other way around and find a place to fully lift the right front wheel and drop the left front wheel. That should bring me in the 'danger zone' Likely that also where the gaiter got torn, did do some off-roading as part of my drive test trough deep holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citizen kane Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I moved the pipe forward on mine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Mine, easily one inch clearance: Buy new engine mounts from Richard Glencoyne. It's transformative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 thanks gazzar, you also have the propshaft 'the other way around'. Wil go that same route. Normally the Gaiter is towards the front of the propshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I do? I honestly can't recall moving mine, though it was 15 years ago when I did the conversion. Do you have the special socket for the bolts on the prop shaft? I can heartily recommend it, coupled with a battery impact wrench, it makes the job a joy to do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I'll get a better photo tomorrow. It's dark and damp outside at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 (edited) 44 minutes ago, Gazzar said: I do? I honestly can't recall moving mine, though it was 15 years ago when I did the conversion. Do you have the special socket for the bolts on the prop shaft? I can heartily recommend it, coupled with a battery impact wrench, it makes the job a joy to do. yes i have. propshaft was out under 5 minutes. Also got pictures from Arjan, he seems to have no gaitor, might wear a bit quicker and need more grease.. also 'bakwards' with the inner part of the propshaft gearbox side and the outerpart axle side. Oficially both propshafts (front and rear) have the inner part, and thereby the gaitor) towards the front of the vehicle afaik. Edited January 1, 2022 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I can't see how it would make much difference. I ran my rear prop shaft without a gaiter until last week. No wear in the splines, despite much on and off road use. I'm happier with, but the collar and seal on the end of the spines does most of the hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Personally, I'd prefer the gaiter higher up and less exposed to debris, rocks and branches, so, close to the gearbox. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 The Glencoyne mountings are excellent, as I said many times too. Also good, and far cheaper, are the specific Bearmach type sold by CharlieCCU (Charles Emberton) on eBay. Not much harder, but a quarter of the price. Much better than Gen Parts or Britpart, which are far too hard. On a related tangent, if either of you still have the front prop off the vehicle, would you mind measuring the length compressed and extended for me, please? HoSS is selling a DC 110 front shaft that would sort out the UJ angles on my 109 following its coiler axle conversion; I want to see if it’s modifiable. If the short section of the shaft has the male long, wider section being the female), could you also measure the length of that section exposed from drive flange to the beginning of the other section? Sorry to be a nuisance, but I’d prefer to avoid the cost of a custom shaft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 1 hour ago, Snagger said: ..... if either of you still have the front prop off the vehicle, would you mind measuring the length compressed and extended for me, please?..... will do, although extended length will be limited by the gaitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 62.5 cm streched to the max (*gaitor already removed) 57 cm push al the way in to hard lock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 placed it the other way around and drove the car up a pile of rocks with the right wheel until i was slipping front left and rear right. Seems to touch just about... might be just good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Thanks for the measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 3 hours ago, xychix said: placed it the other way around and drove the car up a pile of rocks with the right wheel until i was slipping front left and rear right. Seems to touch just about... might be just good enough. Sort out the engine rubbers and slide the engine over a bit on the mounts. That will eliminate the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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