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Is it wrong to adjust a new 'old stock' genuine TD5 chassis under a 110 300tdi? If not what changes?


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Opinions guys.

I have a 300tdi 110 Van, chassis is rough and finally this year needs replacing or lots of repairs.

I have been offered a 110 TD5 Original Land Rover Chassis that's sat in a shed for 20 years and never been fitted and never been stamped, its got the date stamped in as 02 (2002). Its the best I can find for the money I have available and I can transfer the brackets that are different over, so 2 questions really.....

1. Do you think I'm mad in taking away an opportunity for a TD5 owner that would like an original chassis that's never been under a vehicle to restore theirs to factory spec?

2. Otherwise if I get the all clear from you guys I think I'm correct in saying the bits I need to change are....

Rear cross member, Body support rails either side of tank, Front tank bracket on cross member, Exhaust bracket on front of A frame cross member, Cut off td5 gearbox mounts, Radiator mounts and Engine mounts. 

 

Many Thanks 

Wayne.

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5 hours ago, wayne1978trucks said:

Opinions guys.

I have a 300tdi 110 Van, chassis is rough and finally this year needs replacing or lots of repairs.

I have been offered a 110 TD5 Original Land Rover Chassis that's sat in a shed for 20 years and never been fitted and never been stamped, its got the date stamped in as 02 (2002). Its the best I can find for the money I have available and I can transfer the brackets that are different over, so 2 questions really.....

1. Do you think I'm mad in taking away an opportunity for a TD5 owner that would like an original chassis that's never been under a vehicle to restore theirs to factory spec?

2. Otherwise if I get the all clear from you guys I think I'm correct in saying the bits I need to change are....

Rear cross member, Body support rails either side of tank, Front tank bracket on cross member, Exhaust bracket on front of A frame cross member, Cut off td5 gearbox mounts, Radiator mounts and Engine mounts. 

 

Many Thanks 

Wayne.

Personally after checking the chassis is legitimate, I would take, it especially if you have the fabrication skills to make the modifications you need, whose to say if you let it go someone else won't modify it regards Stephen

 

Edited by Stellaghost
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Yes, I’d use it if it’s not been rotting away.

I’d also take the opportunity to go with the Td5’s rear plastic tanks - no more rust, 55litre capacity, and more under seat storage.

Im sure you don’t need a new rear crossmember too?, I think the Td5 just has the adjustable tabs for the rear body mount and other than that works fine.

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23 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Yes, I’d use it if it’s not been rotting away.

I’d also take the opportunity to go with the Td5’s rear plastic tanks - no more rust, 55litre capacity, and more under seat storage.

Im sure you don’t need a new rear crossmember too?, I think the Td5 just has the adjustable tabs for the rear body mount and other than that works fine.

It's a 110 so switching tanks isn't a huge leap but the TD5 item is plastic so I would.

The marsland chassis on mine has a TD5 cross member with older style tabs welded on. You should be able to use either the TD5 adjustable rail mount or add tabs. I'm not aware of any changes to the rear tub until puma so don't see why the rails either side of the tank need changing. Many have fitted TD5 tubs on earlier chassis.

I'm fairly sure the gearbox mounts are bolt on. The 300tdi and TD5 use the same gearbox and transfer box so the mounts should be the same (I'm using TD5 gearbox mounts on an lt77). The prop lengths are the same so I assume the gearbox is in the same place.

TD5 exhaust should mate to a 300 down pipe you may need to alter the length and flange (again I'm running a TD5 centre and rear coupled to a 200tdi discovery down pipe on my ibex). 

Overall if you have the skills to move the engine mounts then the rest is either buying a different part and/or some adaptions. Once the two chassis are side by side all becomes clear anyway.

Mike

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Thank you for your input chaps.

I will get it bought....

Im a bit of a nerd for originality and would like to make it as much a Tdi as possible and I've already got a new tank. Which is why I'm not buying a new Marsland chassis.  Apart from the cost, I would need to change so much to be happy, I know they will do all the changes for me but the price then got ridiculous.

I've got the original chassis that I can steal the rad mounts, engine mounts and gearbox crossmember off and I would get a Heavy duty (standard looking) rear crossmember from GDI, then I just need to make the other bits 

Its definitely Genuine and never been under a vehicle not even a nut or bolt scratch around any hole.

Its been dry stored but clearly in somewhere that's had condensation. I have a cheap endoscope and I noticed inside the chassis there is a light surface rust (where there has been no paint (and some snail shells). interestingly there is a hole corroded through in one spot on the top of the rear crossmember the size of a 5p where its welded to the chassis rails as though it was stored upside down and condensation had rested in that point, no where around it is corroded its as though the factory paint didnt reach up in that corner but moisture did.

After all the costs are added up I'm still £2000 below the price of a converted Marsland chassis.

Id better get the welder out.

 

All the best guys

Wayne.

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Totally agree with the galvanising route as an addition..... but time is against me. (the wifes not chuffed with me using her Transit to tow the trailer)

We do have an addition though.....

I have been offered another chassis that's popped up out of the woodwork..... A Galvanised one!!! It was purchased new from land rover 15 years ago for a 200tdi and galvanised, the owner of the vehicle now wants a new galvanised chassis under his 200tdi so it will 'see him out'. the guy doing the conversion said 'hey this will do you'..... so I've had a cheap camera type thing up it and inside its mint (there is the odd bit of surface rust because it was never painted or waxed) but that's the one I will stick under the 300tdi.

Will get some pics once I start and get a build thread going....... Don't hold your breath though, I'm renowned for buying another Land rover to run around in while I fix this one and before you know it there are 3 waiting to be fixed and I'm going work in the transit. 

This time its serious though as I've got one chassis on the greenhouse base and the other is going on the patio, the wife i fear will have an influence on progress ha ha.

So I've now bought 2 chassis (that I don't have enough money for)

To get the ball rolling on the 300tdi workhorse I'm going to use the Galv one (get it T washed/painted black and waxed inside) and then will convert the New 'old stock' chassis for my 17 year build of my old v8 (I will probably get that Galved then once I weld the bits on it.)

 

Thanks again for direction and input chaps.

All the best Wayne.

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There is a design for a funky 300tdi engine mount bracket on here somewhere to avoid the need to modify the chassis, and still give you filter access. On the other hand, even if you weld,  it's a Defender, any chassis near the engine is unlikely to rust much

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3 hours ago, reb78 said:

 

unfortunately many of the original pics have disappeared. I don't know if @foggy3061 is still active (although his profile says last visited 19 hours ago.... so hoping!)

Yep @reb78, still around! I stop by now and again for a catch up.

Yeah, sadly, thanks to Photof*cket getting greedy (imo) many useful images were lost. I'm pretty sure I still have the original drawing somewhere. I'll start looking for it! 👍

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