Mossberg Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 I am trying to remove my brake caliper so that I can replace my wheel bearing. This is on an old "bitsa" defender and I believe the axle (front) is a 10 spline from a 200tdi disco. This has the hub locking washer with the tab that goes in a slot in the stub axle, rather than the flat on one side - I an not sure if this indicates the age. I need to remove the caliper but the bolts have rounded and I am struggling to remove them. They look like they have been fitted since Adam was a lad. Obviously I don't want to snap the bolt in there so I am looking at suggestions at how to attempt this. I am hoping to pick up some of the damaged nut extractors tomorrow from screwfix. I am also hoping to have some mapp gas in the next couple of days. I am also looking to change the calipers and discs at the same time. Hopefully your own experiences on this could help me from cocking this up as I have very limited experience. Thanks as always for your help. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 My '89 110 has the same hub bearing nut lock washers, jack both front wheels off the ground & turn the steering so you can get better access for the removal, the bolts are 12 point bi-hex head a 13mm socket fits well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Irwin-5pc-Bolt-Grip-Expansion-Base-Set-/184905025450?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 These are quite possibly one of the most useful tools in the world!... You get the one closed to the rounded head and tap it on quite hard with a hammer, then work it with a ratchet then hammer on a bit harder and it will get them out no bother. Used many times in rounded caliper bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 (edited) remember to use a 12 point 13mm socket , a normal 6 point/flange socket will round off the little points on the bolt head , and have no grip at all ! and use a hammer to set the socket really good on the bolt ! Edited January 27, 2022 by hurbie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 Yep, used a 12mm 12 point, hammered on but no joy. I could see there was not really a lot of shape to it and I presume someone has tried before. I will get a set of the nut removers tomorrow and see how I go on. Would anyone recommend using heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 only if you confine the heat to the bolt heads, BUT remember the caliper piston seals could be trashed with heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 10 minutes ago, western said: only if you confine the heat to the bolt heads, BUT remember the caliper piston seals could be trashed with heat I have new calipers to fit so hopefully I won't have to worry about the seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 Get it to cherry then! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharp Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 The bolts should have loctite on them, so even a little bit of heat will help. I can't remember the size, but a 12 point imperial socket sometimes fits better than a 13mm. Perhaps a 1/2 inch? Good luck with the irwin extrators, they've saved my bacon a few times but when I took the old calipers off my 110 for the first time I had to resort to the angle grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 I use 12 point 1/2" socket on the caliper bolts. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 If you heat bolt and calliper lug as hot as possible then sluice it with cold water it will help to unlock them . If you use the Irwin hammer on socket on a cherry red head there is every possibility the head will shear off. Those Irwin hammer on's are very , very good Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 I do quite a few of these - it can be a bit of a one shot deal depending how rusted, stuck & rounded the bolt so I normally dump plenty of heat around the bolt (I rarely heat bolts as it seems counter-productive) let it cool slightly then squirt plenty release oil round the bolt, give it half hour then back on the heat, hammer an Irwin socket on nice & tight and they normally give up. On occasion I've had to unbolt the axle flange and take the whole swivel assembly & hub to the bench.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 Thanks Eightpot, shared experience is exactly what I need. Got the knock on nut removers- the screwfix Erbaur ones as they were local for me to collect. Picked up the mapp gas at the same time and my torch should be ready for collection before 5. The bolts look quite bad and I did think about what would be the next step. I did think I may have to remove the swivel housing so I have tried the fixings and they do move. I will add an update to let you kind folks know how I have faired. My fingers are well and truly crossed! M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 (edited) Split the caliper first, then jou can take the hub with the disk off. will make it less heavy. Edited January 28, 2022 by Wytze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 10 minutes ago, Wytze said: Split the caliper first, then jou can take the hub with the disk off. will make it less heavy. I have also thought of this, but those bolts look as bad. That would definitely be worth doing if you can get to the back of the bolt . Do you know if the hole that the caliper bolts go into is straight through or blind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 3 minutes ago, Mossberg said: I have also thought of this, but those bolts look as bad. That would definitely be worth doing if you can get to the back of the bolt . Do you know if the hole that the caliper bolts go into is straight through or blind? The bolt's are 12.9 you do not want to drill those out. splitting the caliper can't be very hard to do. After that you can just take off the swivel with the rest of the caliper. Grind the heads off , take the caliper off and tap the thread loose , while you support the ears on the swivel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 I had this issue a while ago! The bolt head started to round off, I bought the Irwin bolt removers and the bolt was still tight enough that it didn't want to be move at all and the Irwin socket promptly machined the bolt head perfectly round! What I did next was to take the whole hub off the vehicle and set it up on my pillar drill where I drilled out the bolt and helicoiled it! I hope you have success with whatever method you are using! Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 Does anyone know the thread size of the brake caliper bolts. I have a feeling that if I manage to get these out they may benefit from having a tap through them. Many thanks. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 If all the above fail, my 'get out of jail' solution, which has not failed yet is to weld a short length of tube to the top of the bolt, then weld a larger nut to the tube (actually, weld the nut to the tube first). The combination of the heat from the welder and significantly more torque through the larger nut has freed everything I've tried it on. It can also work when the bolt has snapped in a hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 It may be different on yours but as I recall the holes in the hub go right through, you can apply plusgas to the bottom of the thread as well. Heat has to be you friend. Try also some sharp taps on the the head of the bolts, that can help break corrosion bonds. An impact wrench can also help sometimes but sometimes not 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 Many thanks folks. I will try this over the weekend and let you know how I get on. If anyone knows the thread size of the caliper bolts then please let me know and I will try to source one tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 1 hour ago, Mossberg said: Does anyone know the thread size of the brake caliper bolts. I have a feeling that if I manage to get these out they may benefit from having a tap through them. Many thanks. Mick Mine was a fine thread....M12 x 1.25 as written here when I did mine. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 At a pinch, you can put cuts in the threads of one of the old bolts, with a hacksaw or grinder, like a tap. Not a tap, but should let you clean out debris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 Many thanks Steve. I will get one on order tomorrow if I can't find one local. I also need to grab some pipe and fittings. I can see me having an interesting weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 2 hours ago, simonr said: If all the above fail, my 'get out of jail' solution, which has not failed yet is to weld a short length of tube to the top of the bolt, then weld a larger nut to the tube (actually, weld the nut to the tube first). The combination of the heat from the welder and significantly more torque through the larger nut has freed everything I've tried it on. It can also work when the bolt has snapped in a hole. I think this method has failed me every time i have used it! The irwin extractors have never failed though. Make sure they are on enough to really bite in. Use a looong breaker bar to move the bolt in one swoop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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