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Soldering station recommendations


daveturnbull

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I've been tinkering with some vintage audio stuff recently, which obviously involves a bit of soldering. I have a rather terrible set of aldi soldering irons, which have been a right struggle to use. One of them doesn't even get hot enough to melt solder.

I know of Weller as being a good brand, but they are fortunes and everything else seems to be chinesium.

Any recommendations on a half decent good value soldering station kit?

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I bought a Weller station secondhand after looking and waiting for a long time for one to come up. Good things - iron is on a nice length of rubber cable so it is easy to handle. The heat comes up really quickly (less than a minute) and the temperature is adjustable on this one, although I tend to use it near the high end.

The tip is a pencil tip rather than chisel so it's limited in use. I keep meaning to see if there are bigger tips.

So you might drop lucky secondhand.

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Another vote for Weller, I've got a Lidl station at the moment, utter carp.

Most cheap irons eat their own bits rather than melt solder as they are just made of copper or other brown metal.

I have a 40 year old Weller iron which is brill but I can't find bits for it now.

As for chisel or pin, as an electronics lab tech I always used pin or pin with a diagonal flat on the end at most but old audio kit (and electric guitars even now) have huge solder tabs and globs of stinky solder!

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I have one of these: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/7998941

In fact, I now have two of them with one to use at work - I was so impressed with the first one!

It's a lot cheaper than an equivalent Weller station (such as https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1227916) (which I've used plenty of) and I honestly think this is better, for one main reason - the iron itself has better ergonomics.  I find it easier to hold for long periods.

The cheaper Weller soldering stations just feel a bit Chinese to me - I've used  a few of them too.

The above will heat up to 500C (very quickly).  While that might not seem all that useful when solder melts at half that temperature - it's good for soldering things like bigger copper terminals or PCB ground planes that sink the heat really fast.  It can dump a load of heat energy into the terminal fast & the solder will melt where an iron that starts at a lower temperature cools below the melting point initially - then takes ages to heat the whole thing up.  It gives you more localised heating.

I also agree with Fridge - Metcal make really nice irons, probably with the best ergonomics of all, but they were too expensive for me at home (or work)

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Mine's an Atten - can't remember the model number for sure, might be an ST-80. I'm no soldering pro, but it was picked out for me by a friend who's an electronics tech, as a good budget buy (upgrading from a more basic iron like you). Bought a selection of tips with it. I've been really pleased with it.

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I've been looking around a bit today, and I think Atten are the Maplin branded ones.

I'm also pretty sure that their most basic model is exactly the same as what RS are selling with a different sticker for almost twice the price. They even have the same model number.

https://www.maplin.co.uk/atten-at-937-soldering-station-5055189030893

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1611962

@simonr that RS one does look nice, tad over budget tho considering it won't be something I use all the time.

@FridgeFreezer I've added Metcal to my ebay search in case one pops up for a good price.

Infact @geoffbeaumont's ST-80 looks very similar to @simonr's RS one. 10w difference in power and less than half the price.

https://www.maplin.co.uk/atten-st-80-soldering-iron-station-with-stand-80w-6972142390117

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/7998941

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JBC do some very nice soldering irons but they're in a slightly difference price bracket to everything else listed so far :blush:

This is what I have in the way of my everyday soldering iron but then again it's all usually surface mount stuff.

JBC NASE-2C Nano Rework station

@daveturnbull I literally have a crate of the Metcal soldering irons I've been meaning to sort through and see if any are working. Might be able to cobble something together for you. They might be a bit overkill for what you want (as in physical size).

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No idea what condition they're in - they came out of a slightly damp shipping container and they're not aesthetically the best (powder coating is peeling off and the aluminium cases are oxidising). Will see whether they work first.

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Soldering stations are expensive due to the accuracy required by the electronics industry. Truthfully this is a level never seen during the manufacture of vintage audio equipment which in my experience is massive blobs of lead on copper tabs the si,e of a washer.

Do you really need a station? Personally I would buy a good quality stand alone soldering iron and stand, much cheaper, more comfortable and far less bulky.

I'm not trying to be condescending as there are far cleverer people on this site than me, however a soldering station isn't a desk tidy with everything in one place which is how they are sold in the hobby use sector, it was created to meet exacting industry standards for electronics manufacture where staff stay static all day.

To qualfy my comment, I worked as a Prototype Wireman in R&D in the military communications industry, the quality of my work was such that QA stopped inspecting my work and and only came to me to ask for advice on others.  During that time I never even saw a soldering station in my department. For the work I did it was far better using a light weight soldering iron all day.

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I could probably get away with a decent iron, but I like the idea of having some control over the temperature, and it's not exclusively vintage equipment I'll be tinkering with. I have a modern receiver with a blown centre channel that needs a load of components replacing, and that's a lot more intricate and tightly packaged. 

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22 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Metcal SP200 all day long.

Not cheap, but luvverly.

That looks nice. Little bit spendy for the occasional use.

My main gripe with my Velleman station is how far away the tip is from where you hold it - I'm way too shaky for that.

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Watching this with interest- I've been contemplating options soledering myself. I had a job where I needed to de-solder a load of 2.5sqmm wire. My 15W Antex was way underpowered, and a cheapy 50W iron had a terrible tip that refused to tin. In the past I had an oppurtuniy to borrow a metcal from work whenever I needed a good iron, but no longer work at that company so not an option. The secondhand Weller stations seem overpriced for secondhand to me. Might well therefore try the atten one from Maplin unless you might have a metcal available @Ed Poore?

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I've been a Weller "fan" ever since I started soldering, about 50 years ago, scarily !

A couple of years ago though I started to find myself dealing more and more with SMT stuff and struggling with my old school setup, so decided to try out a soldering station. As it was only really an experiment and I still had the trusty Weller to fall back on I went for a cheap 2 in 1 soldering station like this one...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384460906311?hash=item5983a7df47:g:MiQAAOSwuxRhS-OQ

At that price, I'll be honest, I wasn't expecting much BUT I don't think I've used my old Weller since this arrived. It's been really good, the iron heats up quickly and has a "sleep" mode so the it detects it's been in the holder for a while it reduces the temperature to save the bit. The selection of bits that came with it are a good selection from the very finest needle bit to a large flat bit, all of which have been fine and changing bits is quick and easy.

The hot air gun is also a real bonus, as well as easily replacing SMT ICs and discrete components it's great for heat shrink too and, again, the range of nozzles for the gun mean that the heat is very localised. I was replacing some 8 pin SMT ICs on some boards last week (Cheap Chinese CAN BUS boards that didn't work due to the dodgy ICs fitted that I replaced with genuine items), the ICs are surrounded by discrete components but I manage to replace the ICs on all 5 boards without disturbing any of the surrounding components.

As I said, for £60 I wasn't expecting much but I've been very impressed with it.

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I’ve had one of these for years and years…

Weller 9200UDK) 100 Watt/240 Volt Standard Soldering Gun

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JFY1LZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_AV702ZD4Y1GQQ35MV1P8
 

I like that the longer you hold the trigger the hotter it gets and the tips seem to last a good while too.

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3 hours ago, Anderzander said:

I’ve had one of these for years and years…

Weller 9200UDK) 100 Watt/240 Volt Standard Soldering Gun

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JFY1LZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_AV702ZD4Y1GQQ35MV1P8
 

I like that the longer you hold the trigger the hotter it gets and the tips seem to last a good while too.

They are essentially a transformer with a short circuited single turn secondary. They are very effective, but be warned if you keep on the trigger too long the bit melts. Don't ask me how I know ..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ooh, look at this I've just picked up for free from Facebook marketplace. 

DSC_4571.thumb.JPG.d24a9525bc06a9339d31118f5c304473.JPG

It needs a little bit of fixing, fuse has blown, cause unknown, but definitely worth rescuing. I've had a look inside already, all there is is a transformer and a switch, so I guess if not just an old fuse it could only really be a short in the iron. Fuses on order so will lob one of those in and see what happens. 

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Fuses arrived. The power supply is fine, but as soon as I plug the iron in the fuse pops. On investigation, the insulation around the individual strands inside the cord was flaky. I had a go at shortening it, hoping that it was just the exposed bit inside the iron that was bad, but no...

DSC_4617.thumb.JPG.0a3e67f81db39f48de0d313fc21e30db.JPG

The other bits inside the iron check out ok. The switch switches when you attach the magnetic tip and the heating element has the correct resistance. Because the 3 pin plug is moulded, I'll need to buy the correct cord for it, can't use just any old bit of wire unfortunately.

The irony of the fact the wires are soldered on inside the iron is not lost on me. 🙄

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DSC_4618.thumb.JPG.ec647ef02e2fcad0b61d5d11b48ad1b6.JPG

Fixed. For £0. I sacrificed an old USB cable. USB is 4 core, 2x 20awg, 2x 28awg. The 20awg's I used for the main power (plenty man enough for the 2 amps they will carry), and combined the 28awg's for the earth (ESD protection). I removed the socket from the front of the power supply and just hard wired the cable in through a grommet with a hole melted in it. Bits inside the PSU are on easy crimp terminals. It's only the other ends inside the iron that I had to solder on with the aldi soldering bat. Not pretty, but stuck. Lets hope it lasts. Being a PVC wire, it's not as nice and floppydoodilus as the original silicone one, but at least none of the cores are touching inside.

It's first job will be to replace the neon strobe jobbie on a Garrard DD75.

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