tuko Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 (edited) I'm about to start making 2 sets of seat Risers for the Defender and I've already have questions. Typical me 😜 I dug out 2 pieces of square stock, one being 30 x 30 steel and the other 35 x 35 aluminum. Googling I've found many different variations of risers which lead my to ask, what is the preferred height for a seat lift? Then I thought how far do I move the seat back? Because of the many different variations of risers I'm wondering if there is a common or preferred height and distance back which is generally a good all-rounder? Thanks in advance, Todd. Edited March 3, 2022 by tuko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 I made mine from 40x40x3 steel box section. I can take some photos and dimensions but it will be in the morning. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 I'd say the 'preferred' rise depends on what 'you' want to achieve. On a Series 2 I wanted to lift the seat runners so they could slide back without hitting the raised flange at the rear of the seat box. I don't know if a Defender has the same seat box design. Regards. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 The Mudstuff rails I have are 30mm high. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 (edited) These photos are of mine which are from 40x40 box. I thought I had dimensions of the holes but I can't find them. I can measure up tomorrow if you want. I used Euroserts into the box sect. I put three positions in expecting to use the furthest back but did not need it. The main thing is the removal of the upper part of the bulkhead or the seat can't recline so defeats moving it back. I am 6' 3 1/2" Edited March 3, 2022 by Mossberg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 @mossberg, thanks for the diagram. I can now see that either Square section that I have, it'll be ok. I was concerned that they may be too high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 You should probably check the clearance between the steering wheel and your thighs before fixing your seat lift. I retro fitted non-LR seats and found that there was no gap between the wheel and me! I subsequently fitted a smaller diameter wheel and I'm well pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 4 hours ago, tuko said: @mossberg, thanks for the diagram. I can now see that either Square section that I have, it'll be ok. I was concerned that they may be too high. I was looking at making the risers out of smaller material but I wanted the strength in what was left after I cut the material out. I also already had some 40x40 box section and 30x30, but felt the 30 would not be strong enough. I agree with the steering wheel comment, however whilst I am tall I am not too hefty (though not slim!) And I cope OK. I have considered a smaller wheel but have not been using the truck enough for it to be an issue. Also I would look at a removable one but that puts it further back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 On mine I wasn’t bothered about moving the rails further back - just lifting them. So I have just been using nylon / HDPE spacers. they must have been in 10 years and work fine. With the bulkhead removed they slide easily far enough back for me on the standard mounting positions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 I first fitted Exmoor trim rails that I picked up on a forum, or eBay. Easy to fit etc, but in use, I found I didn’t like the whole seat being lifted. Probably psychological but I felt I was getting a better view of my sun visor, and not so much of the outside world. Where I live and drive (Scottish Highlands) a lot of the scenery is “up there” - above the top of the windscreen. I switched to using a tubular spacer/riser on the back fixings only. These still lift the back of the seat above the seatbox rail, so the seat can be pushed back, but seem to still allow more vision out the front. Bonus is that a pack of 4 does both seats. I know it’s a bit OT, but thought I’d just throw it in there. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 I made some 30x30s last year, which was perfect for me - years of long distance land rovering have hurt my hip muscles and having a dipped seat leaves me in agony now - 30mm gets the hip angle right and lowers the steering wheel a touch which is nicer for long distances. I'm fairly tall but didn't really need much extra back rake but added 30mm. One of the best mods I've ever made . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 On 3/3/2022 at 9:55 PM, David Sparkes said: I'd say the 'preferred' rise depends on what 'you' want to achieve. On a Series 2 I wanted to lift the seat runners so they could slide back without hitting the raised flange at the rear of the seat box. I don't know if a Defender has the same seat box design. Regards. The seat base and tub “shelf” are identical between 109s and Defenders. 88s have the same shape seat base but no tub shelf, so seat raisers can only raise the seat, not allow extra aft travel over the base/tub joint. The ideal dimensions are going to depend entirely on the driver’s measurements. I’d like a bit more thigh support and leg room, but minimum height gain, so in my case the back ends would need to be as low as possible for the seat rails to clear the base/tub flange but perhaps 1/2”-1” thicker at the front, with bolt holes for the rails about 2” aft of the base positions. For someone with shorter legs (shins, at least), they may prefer to raise the seat more at the back than the front, not needing to lift their thighs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 5 hours ago, Snagger said: For someone with shorter legs (shins, at least), they may prefer to raise the seat more at the back than the front, not needing to lift their thighs. I saw a set of risers in Germany that do exactly that, something like 6mm rise in the front but 30mm at the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 I did see some that were adjustable in rake, a U channel lower with a bigger inverted channel upper, pivoting on a bolt at the back end with a lever fixing on the front ends akin to the quick release fixings for bicycle wheels or saddles. That’d be the ideal set to have, but obviously more costly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted March 8, 2022 Author Share Posted March 8, 2022 I made 2 sets over the weekend using the 30mm steel profile. With the wife sitting in the Defender we decided that moving the seat back 60 mm which gave her all the leg room she could ever need plus with the seat forward a bit, she gets the full rake of the seat before it comes in contact with the rear bulkhead and still has more leg room that she'll ever need. Since taking these pictures the risers have been sanded and painted black. Thanks for the help guys. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 A little late to the party but these are mine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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