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NATO tow hitch fitting help


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I'm a bit confused so reaching out in the hope that someone can help.

Before I start I should state my Defender isn't a military one. It's a 1997 civilian version. But I figured this might be the best group to ask.

I have just come to fit the NATO hitch and the holes in the cross member are threaded!!!!!

Is this normal?

I thought it was bolts that went all the way through with a flat plate either side as washers, but this obviously isn't the case on this one.

It is a very late 300tdi built on a TD5 chassis (not by me), so fuel tank is at the back, if that makes any difference.

I have tried to take a picture but not sure if it's come out very well.

IMG20220319125133.thumb.jpg.7ebda02c40cdef3738734b6057a6e291.jpg

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Ok after some time researching today I have been able to answer my own question, the TD5 cross member does have threaded bolt holes as standard and is much more difficult to add a NATO hitch to looks like you need part code: KNK100090K :( 

There is also some info here, 
see forum post: 

 

Edited by Defender
Added correct part code
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Sadly the Td5 onwards rear cross member is not suitable for direct fitting of a tow point such as a NATO hook. If you use the captive nuts it will just bend the crossmember as soon as you pull anything. And runs the risk of pulling through entirely. 
 

A lot of effort went into this for the ALRC regs. If you scroll down to the bottom of page 4 there is an example drop plate and attachment. You could then mount a nato hook on the drop plate. 
 

https://www.alrc.co.uk/stylesheets/downloads/2021-ALRC-Greenbook-Competition-Rules-and-Regulations.pdf

 

If you are into fabbing then you could remove or drill out the captive nuts and drop the tank and fit a spreader plate behind the crossmember as you would on an older model of course. 
 

Don’t forget to use high tensile (min 8.8) nuts and bolts for any tow points. 

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Probably the easiest way of fitting a NATO to a TD5 rear cross member is by using a 2 inch receiver because that will use all the available tow bar mounting pick up points. It does mean that the NATO mount ends up lower than a direct mount would be tough. That's what I used on mine although my chassis was aftermarket and didn't have the captive nuts so I also added a 6mm spreader plate with captive nuts behind the cross member. I only tow a Sankey with mine so having the NATO a bit lower than intended with +2 inch suspension on the 90 means it tows really nicely as they seem to like to be a bit nose down.

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I’m in no way disagreeing with the above - but I have had a recovery point screwed onto the Td5 crossmember and recovered some very stuck things with it - and been recovered with it too and it’s never resulted in any deformation or failure.

I wouldn’t want to encourage anyone into doing something that was not safe, but it’s interesting to me what it has coped with.

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On 3/20/2022 at 11:47 PM, Anderzander said:

I’m in no way disagreeing with the above - but I have had a recovery point screwed onto the Td5 crossmember and recovered some very stuck things with it - and been recovered with it too and it’s never resulted in any deformation or failure.

I wouldn’t want to encourage anyone into doing something that was not safe, but it’s interesting to me what it has coped with.

I would guess yours might be an exception to the rule. Is it an aftermarket chassis with thicker material?

I have in person seen several bent rear crossmembers when attached in this manner. As part of the ALRC regs above, we also contacted Land Rover directly, who confirmed that it isn't suitable to mount in that manner. I don't have the letter from them, but it is held by the ALRC.

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9 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

I would guess yours might be an exception to the rule. Is it an aftermarket chassis with thicker material?

Good question 🤔

It was on my last Td5 90 - and that was a standard chassis, but I did replace the crossmember and I ‘think’ the tough recoveries were on the replacement. 

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