JeffR Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 (edited) OK so found a few "minor" problems that need addressed. Drivers footwell is rusted out, not bad for a genuine parts bulkhead that has never seen the road, but easy to fix. Gearbox crossmember had the correct bolts, but no nuts... Steering wheel was missing its nut Accelerator cable held to pedal with a wood screw Seatbox had been replaced with a 300 tdi one that didn't match the tunnel. Looked at buying second hand one (most are cattle trucked) or even a YRM front panel (too spendy) so made my own, not pretty but will hide under sound proofing: Sills n bits removed de-rusted, I really recommend Neutrarust 661, damn stuff really works, not cheap, but very effective. primed and ready to paint . Will be painted nice shiny black, cos I have a gallon of nice shiny black paint taking up space in the garage: Now for the dash. Yesterday little job was to remove the amazing mix of philips, hex and posidrive screws "holding" dash sort of in place... Thats another day of my life I'll never get back. So stripped the vinyl and foam off (remarkably easy) and rust killed , well wounded the rust, cos its a landrover and rust is immortal. Main dash bottom wasn't too bad, although it took 3 hours to remove heater flap cable nipple thing (have you seen how much a new trunnion costs from LR, £25!!!!!!!), if you try this, its a 3 BA hex... So todays little job was to be soundproofing the bulkhead, but someone appears to have stolen Hermes winged sandals cos he's nowhere to be found, so todays "little job" is to resurrect this: Why resurrect? Well to buy new would require selling at least 3 of my internal organs for a deposit, and secondly, secondhand ones require at least one internal organ and are just as rusty... I also solved why the windscreen wipers didn't work. Motor turned and made satisfying noises, but wipers were on strike. Evidently they require one of these to function properly: Never mind two steps forward, one step back. The garden store looks quite fetching in green and red lead don't you think... Edited March 27, 2022 by JeffR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Good progress Jeff. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 Most of dash metal bits have decided to return back to the earth as ferric/ferrous oxide. Given time I will repair them, welding gas would be useful too.... Trying to weld very thin metal with fluxed wire is akin to emptying the Atlantic with a sieve. So off later today to collect a complete Td5 dash, everything including main loom.... Only cost me two of my favourite fishing reels, a nice little 1950's Hardy Elarex (keeping the earlier late 40's better one...) and a very uncommon Abu Ultramag XL6 (keeping the boxed, unused one). In terms of time and effort, replacing was the only way. I will repair/resurrect the other two dashes ("borrowed" some bits from the V8 station wagon next year when I start on that restoration. The not so fun bit will be sorting out/Frankensteining the electrickery. ROW 300 Tdi main loom, 200Tdi engine loom and now TD5 instruments and switches, grafting in a Golf GtTdi radiator cooling fan pack (fits a Defender Radiator/Intercooler frame like it was designed for the job, so do Passat B5.5 illuminated sun visors if I can work out the electrickery side... Gotta crack on with the Tdi as my Golf spectacularly failed its pre MOT..... Emissions (well its only done 358K...) , needs rings and a clutch, and the sills have more holes than a Tory Party election manifesto, but its got lovely heated leather Recaros......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Just incase you haven’t seen it, our very own Retroanaconda has a great guide for the td5 clocks on his website retroanaconda.com 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Cannot recommend that enough, it helped for my own TD5 conversion. My speedo now reads bang-on so well worth the upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 5 hours ago, landroversforever said: Just incase you haven’t seen it, our very own Retroanaconda has a great guide for the td5 clocks on his website retroanaconda.com 4 hours ago, ThreePointFive said: Cannot recommend that enough, it helped for my own TD5 conversion. My speedo now reads bang-on so well worth the upgrade. Just found it, two things will make my life easier, Retroanacondas guide and the fact that my main loom is genuine ROW 300 Tdi so lots are plug n play. Collected it today, even came with original main loom (complete with fuse box and relays) , everything had been taken apart carefully and all fasteners boxed and included. Only 4 bits missing - wiper motor (got one of them) , grab handle end of dash )also got one of them and ignition switch. All the column stalks are there and so is the steering column...Its basically all the bits off of a bulkhead . Even better, it aint been butchered, not a single wire cut. Oh one of the heater cables is kinked... all the blanking grommets were included too. Dash panels are almost perfect, not a single extra screw hole or split in the vinyl. I'll even have some bits left over. Well chuffed Prepare for lots of questions..........I hate electrickery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Jeff, it's all quite straightforward 👍 The dash harness is the spine of the vehicles electrical system, get a TD5 rear harness and wing harnesses for full plug and play. You will need a 300tdi temp sender and an adapter for your 200tdi. When testing your built up dash, a single power supply to the satellite fuse box will operate everything on the bulkhead. HTH Mo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 Stripped out the air filter housing so as to take heater out and found this carnage How on earth did they get in there! Useless bit of info, decomposing birds WILL dissolve a 200 tdi air filter housing, now I need to find another housing.....will this never end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 32 minutes ago, JeffR said: Stripped out the air filter housing so as to take heater out and found this carnage How on earth did they get in there! Useless bit of info, decomposing birds WILL dissolve a 200 tdi air filter housing, now I need to find another housing.....will this never end I have this if its any good too you don't know what it's off but has filter with it but no legs, ripe for adaption lol My usual terms of business apply.......... regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 That shows promise ...... and it aint full of dead things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 Channelling my inner Ralph: NRC9238 | Air Filter - 4 Cylinder Pre Tdi | Defender I once found a whole bird in mine, completely dried and preserved. Made no sense as the intake had a grille it could never have fit through. You've made a good find with that dash, not too many good quality ones still about. I wish mine had been that tidy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 20 hours ago, JeffR said: --SNIP-- I'll even have some bits left over. Well chuffed --SNIP Isn't that always the case ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said: Channelling my inner Ralph: NRC9238 | Air Filter - 4 Cylinder Pre Tdi | Defender I once found a whole bird in mine, completely dried and preserved. Made no sense as the intake had a grille it could never have fit through. You've made a good find with that dash, not too many good quality ones still about. I wish mine had been that tidy. Reminds me of when I found a very decomposed rodent in the windscreen washer bottle of my old Disco, we'd been smelling the delicious aroma of dead thing for weeks but couldn't find the source, washer pump expired and when I pulled it out, well I got covered in decomposed mouse gravy.... Bought a new washer bottle cos you NEVER get rid of that stink. Never. 1 hour ago, CwazyWabbit said: Isn't that always the case ? Yeah thats a sad truism.... Mind you what am I gonna do with a Td5 bulkhead loom thats not been messed about with the spare steering column will no doubt take up semi-permanent residence in the "could be useful" box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 Timed things perfectly, removed passenger side wing n snorkel, removed old nest from said snorkel. Removed heater for a quick spruce up and removed newly started nest from heater...Birdlife in my garden is not happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 A question: why does paint dry quicker on the brush than it does on whatever you've just painted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 2 hours ago, JeffR said: A question: why does paint dry quicker on the brush than it does on whatever you've just painted? You must be stiring it the wrong way. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 6, 2022 Author Share Posted April 6, 2022 Paint also dries quicker on the cats than it does on the panel.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 3 hours ago, JeffR said: Paint also dries quicker on the cats than it does on the panel.... Shame oil doesn't. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 6, 2022 Author Share Posted April 6, 2022 Dont suppose anyone has seen the courier who was supposed to deliver my pop rivets and self tappers yesterday.... I would like to start putting my heater back together now that it, the cats and the freezer are painted 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 (edited) Well managed to get the heater box refurbed and assembled, just a couple of minor issues. When one rivets (Hermes found his sandals...) a heater box back together, just make sure you put the spacer collars back on the flap spindles....Oh and when you paint stuff , if its taking forever to dry do not pop it in the oven to speed things up, cos everything will taste of of paint for a few days and the wife will have a serious hissy fit. Today I get to put some bits back on the vehicle, woo hooo Edited April 8, 2022 by JeffR 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Happy days, 20kg assorted M6,M8 and M10 nuts n bolts n washers just arrived! No more raking around looking for an M6x20 , strangely, the wife is completely disinterested whilst I'm like a kid in a sweet shop 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 Unhappy days..... OK so progress on 110 has been somewhat patchy (when did Royal Mail revert to carrier pigeons and horse drawn transport - 9 bloody days to deliver a letter sized package first class, 9. To put this in perspective, a friend posted me a small vial of water beetles from Berlin, they arrived in 3 days). So decided to replace (well swap) the doors and replace the window channels. Nice easy job. Rather than mortgage my internal organs and buy genuine, I thought I'd save a bob or 30 and use pattern parts (not I may add in a blue box). So nice big package arrives from SP Panels. Sets to on thursday to remove the old channels (read rust enclosed in rubber) ten minute job. Thats ten minutes per screw and there's a lot of them. Installs new channels, in a fashion. Met with a few problems...... 1. The felt lining is awful, I mean awful and unstable and not really attached. 2. They are about the correct dimensions (they get the benefit of the doubt as , well, its a landrover...) 3. No holes for the screws, drill ya own. So eventually gets the buggers to fit. Installs window. Then the fun starts. The window would not wind all the way up. Was binding. Ha, says I , just remove the shims for a bit more clearance, so out everything comes. Shims removed, everything reinstalled, window back in and things improved. Window goes 2/3 of the way up before binding instead of 1/2. Everything comes out, again, I'm getting good at this by now. Noticed that some of the (new, supplied with the channels) countersunk self tappers were beginning to look very sorry for themselves, they are made of Philadelphia cheese, not even a hard cheese such as Parmesan.... So has a root around in my junk spares pile and finds a couple or three . The screws supplied with channels turn out to be way too big, one requires Countersunk No.6 X 3/8" (or 1/2") not some random bloody metric things that "look" about the correct size... Throws tools around garden and retires in a fit of bad temper. Orders 50 new stainless screws of the correct size. Waiting for the Carrier Pigeon to arrive... Before anyone asks why I didn't re-use the old ones, well I tried, but most had to be drilled out (they're bloody hard metal, ask my cobalt drills if you don't believe me), and the remainder were well on their way to being nothing but rust. Moral of the story is mortgage your internal organs and either buy OEM or Genuine. I've wasted three days of my life making stuff fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 I agree. I’ve done that. The so called correct part number screws are not. Somehow I managed with my salvaged old ones. Not sure if needed any new ones once I had chucked the first correct part new ones away. If your carrier pigeon arrives and they fit, please confirm that size for the masses. Just a point though, I think the ones along the top door rail need to be shorter otherwise they might poke thru but that is perhaps your reference to 3/8”. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 3 minutes ago, Peaklander said: I agree. I’ve done that. The so called correct part number screws are not. Somehow I managed with my salvaged old ones. Not sure if needed any new ones once I had chucked the first correct part new ones away. If your carrier pigeon arrives and they fit, please confirm that size for the masses. Just a point though, I think the ones along the top door rail need to be shorter otherwise they might poke thru but that is perhaps your reference to 3/8”. The original screws were all Countersunk No6 x 3/8. On one door....The other door had a mix of No6X 3/8 and 1/2 (but I have a vague recollection of re doing that door in the very late 90's). Both would work fine on the top cos if you shove a measuring wire (OK so it was a pop rivet stem) you have almost 3/4" gap. Got 50 of the buggers (3/8") in stainless from Kayfast ebay shop. A shameless plug for them as I have never got carp from them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 What’s happened with the binding window then Jeff - I thought you were telling us it was something to do with the screws at first … Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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