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A frame ball joint - how to check OK?


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How do you check an A frame ball joint whilst off the vehicle?

I have a joint but the rubber gaiter is gone. The joint is not loose but I would not know how to check for signs of wear.  I don't want to replace it for the sake of it, but I certainly don't want to put a worn part back!

I was just considering fitting a Gwyn Lewis polyurethane gaiter,  but I will get a replacement if I am not sure it's OK.

As always   thanks for your help. 

Mick

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If its off I'd replace it. In my experience you need a good amount of force to even just check its tight, I chased a clunck for months as I couldn't manually see any play in the a frame ball joint,  but the force and load applied while driving obviously was enough to displace it. 

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Wow, that was quick - thanks Maverick!

If it is difficult to detect I will look at getting a new one. I have a friend that will let me use his 30t press so I will look at getting one on order. I know folks will say get a unit in the housing, but I have never done this kind of work before so I am enjoying (?) gaining the experience.

Are their other things that can be checked at the same time? I don't want to replace things for the sake of it as I am on a budget, but also don't want to miss doing something that is good practice to do when the axle is separated (well removed as I am replacing the axle casing) from the truck.

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Worth changing the bushes on the a frame and radius arms whilst axle off

If you have access to a press then changing the ball joint is easy enough. I cut the 'ears' off either side of the joint after taking out the bolts so that you have a decent area to press against. Be careful when pressing the new one in as the joint sits proud of the casting and you will crush it if you put it flat down on the surface you are pressing onto

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6 hours ago, Maverik said:

In my experience you need a good amount of force to even just check its tight

Exactly, I had a pretty nasty clunk coming from the back, changed the rear half shafts and was convinced it would solve the clunking because they were pretty worn but the clunk was still there! Removed the a frame ball joint, but thought it would not make a difference because it didn't looked worn or had any play but the clunk was completely gone after replacing. Like Maverik said, it's quite impossible to test the ball joint after removal, you need so much force to just make it move a little. If it's installed, you could use a pry bar to test and find any play, but still then it's pretty challenging.

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I had a problem getting one out even with a press, ended up putting into an electrolysis bath to clear the rust, then it came out quite easily. Expect a bang when it lets go. I also used some studs as a guide when putting the new one in, once it's started you can take them out (you could cut the heads off old bolts and slot the ends for a screwdriver)

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Many thanks for the help folks. I will look at getting a new ball joint. I am going to have to remove the axle so I will have to separate the trailing arm joints. I will have to hope they are OK, but I doubt that!! I think I will have to expect to do those too!

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There are A frame joints available which are pre fitted into the housing,  I am NOT suggesting you buy from the links below, its just to show what is available alongside the bare ball joint.

3 examples with & without the long bolts for the arms & a high angle version.

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-rear-suspension-a-frame-bracket-ball-joint-kit/

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/terrafirma-defender-discovery-1-a-frame-bracket-and-ball-joint/

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/range-rover-classic-high-articulation-rear-upper-a-frame-ball-joint-with-bracket/

 

 

 

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