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TDV8 Turbo failure


88inchthing

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Unfortunately the left turbo has failed on my L322.

 I have now dropped the sub frame etc and removed the down pipe. I can now spin the shaft by hand and it feels and sounds very rough.

Was just looking for some advice/insight on the following 

Turbo failure on these engines is quite common around 100k. Does anyone know exactly why?

There are a number of horror stories about rapid failure of replacement turbos. Is it just folks not checking oil feed, poor cleanliness, bad quality parts ect? 
 

What suppliers would you recommend. My local Specialist will only fit brand new Garret units. I can find cheap recons on eBay but a quick Google search shows very poor quality and reputation.

Tia

Bill

 

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You can get a new core and reuse the housing (if no damage) to keep the cost down.

What exactly failed? If the compressor wheel is damaged there is a very real risk of debris making it into the engine...

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14 hours ago, Escape said:

You can get a new core and reuse the housing (if no damage) to keep the cost down.

What exactly failed? If the compressor wheel is damaged there is a very real risk of debris making it into the engine...

Unfortunately it is the compressor wheel. The securing nut is missing as is part of the shat which appears to have sheared!

Worse still I can’t find the missing bits. 
I think my only option is to remove the inter cooler and take it to someone who can dismantle and check it for debris.

Thank for suggesting cores, they are indeed a lot cheaper.694924AE-E5F9-4296-8C57-6EDD2073977E.thumb.jpeg.77d7e81eb135dea5060027683a13fce4.jpeg694924AE-E5F9-4296-8C57-6EDD2073977E.thumb.jpeg.77d7e81eb135dea5060027683a13fce4.jpeg51CAC928-00D7-4BC6-8382-109C8DF0B4E0.thumb.jpeg.b039c6e17d0d0dce563b5fed5b382c9b.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was speaking to someone the other day who advised removing the sump and cleaning out the oil pick up pipe and gauze. It is apparently part of the LR advice for turbo replacements.

I have a Sport to do this summer summer so will be interested in the outcome.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well the rangie is now back up and running.

In case it’s of use to anyone in the future here’s how it went.

Removed subframe, drive shafts, diff. Unbolted steering rack from subframe cable tied in place. Pulled back rack boots and removed steering arms from rack.

with subframe out the way removed left engine mount. This is when I found out they have a block drain bung. It’s right next to an engine mount bolt which you can only feel lol. 
Yep I unknowingly undid it and got showered in red coolant 🌨.

on the right side I removed the starter motor and at this point I was able to remove both exhaust manifolds complete with turbos .

I Fitted replacement cores from a British company called Mellet supplied by Bearmach.

Total cost including gaskets and oil and filter was under £700

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