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New potential RR owner


paime

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Hi folks,

As much as I love my defender, a longer commute looms and I'm finding myself looking at circa 2006 TDV8s, primarily for comfort. I'm used to the daft defender prices but these RRs seem cheap - too cheap. Is a 70-90k mileage vehicle a sensible choice for a daily 45 miles each way or do these vehicles now prefer the quieter life like my defender?

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Funny,  as I've watched LR vehicle prices, it's crazy for a mid priced defender you can get a plethora of other much higher newer spec land rovers.

I guess you just need to take into account they will have some expensive problems/ service costs and the running costs are going to be pricey as they're not know for there fuel economy. - a bit of a sweeping statement I know, but I'd agree the price of 2nd hand other LR's you get a lot of car for the cash now.

I know some disco 3's did have some corrosion issues and I should imagine cheap cheap trucks are probably right on the nose for a big body off service that owners don't want to foot the bill for, so they just sell them.

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My brain tells me sub £10k vehicles shouldn't come with sat nav, heated steering wheels and electric seats but yet there are plenty of RRs for sale who prove me wrong.

As an average mechanic but shocking (geddit??) electrician I'm also worried how much work I could do myself versus how much I'd have to get the garage to do. Are they known for electrical gremlins?

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Any vehicle of any brand newer than about 2005 that isn't Japanese is known for electrical gremlins, and LR are somewhere at the bottom of that heap.

That said, I would still like a supercharged RRS, though suspect they are rare as hens teeth now, and a price to match.

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7 hours ago, paime said:

My brain tells me sub £10k vehicles shouldn't come with sat nav, heated steering wheels and electric seats but yet there are plenty of RRs for sale who prove me wrong.

As an average mechanic but shocking (geddit??) electrician I'm also worried how much work I could do myself versus how much I'd have to get the garage to do. Are they known for electrical gremlins?

The issue I have found with Range Rover Sports are ACE pumps going, Turbos, and Speedo Head Issues. The ACE pumps can be a pain to get to the turbos are a nightmare and the speedo heads are very simple but very annoying. Vogue L322s are plagued with rust on the subframes and on the bodywork. All are very nice until they go wrong. 

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I recently bought a 2012 4.4 TDV8. It's the best evolution of the L322 after all, so why not make one of those your target. 

The prices are 'cheap' because of factors like the luxury car cachet that it may need expensive repairs, government's mission to make us drive 'green' vehicles, perceived running costs, stories on forums where people complain about issues but rarely logging into to sing the vehicle's praises, the fact that fixing things and sorting rust may require more effort and planning than doing similar on a Defender...  

Edited by rednaxela
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Just looked up the 2012s and the prices are a bit of a stretch for me to justify to the missus. A sub £10k example is what I was thinking might be achievable given what's on autotrader.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 2008 l322 tdv8. I’ve now had it for 5 years and 50k (bought on 57k)
Overall I’ve found it to be an excellent vehicle.

The only major issue I’ve had was a turbo failure. My local lr specialist quoted £3775 for two brand new genuine turbos. 
 

Not wanting to spend that I did the work myself and fitted replacement cores to both turbos total cost under £700. 
 

I’d suggest taking one for a test drive. I think you’ll be impressed.

Also quite good on fuel. I average 24mpg which only drops by about 2mpg towing a 2.5 ton trailer, due I believe to the huge amount of torque.

Also an extremely good tow vehicle.

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  • 3 months later...

Hello again!

After much deliberation I managed to buy a 2011 TDV8 the other day. It's like driving a sofa sitting on treacle - an absolute peach of an experience. It's a high miler at 150k but full service history and fairly clean MOTs so hopefully it'll last a while before I need to do anything serious. Is there any preventative work i should do immediately? It had it's fluid and filters changed before I bought it. 

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23 hours ago, paime said:

Hello again!

After much deliberation I managed to buy a 2011 TDV8 the other day. It's like driving a sofa sitting on treacle - an absolute peach of an experience. It's a high miler at 150k but full service history and fairly clean MOTs so hopefully it'll last a while before I need to do anything serious. Is there any preventative work i should do immediately? It had it's fluid and filters changed before I bought it. 

Photos!!!

Have the gearbox sump and oil been changed? Normally a 100k service item but mine went at 72k so worth doing asap.

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I'd change all fluids - diffs, gear and t-box, engine, brakes etc if you don't have evidence they have been done recently. Other than that, check for rust on the underside of the top tailgate bottom lip and the leading edge of the rear wheel arches.

 

Other than that, just enjoy the ride as they are epic vehicles. :)

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Drive it like you stole it fairly often :D. No - I'm serious - the big diesels don't like ticking over all the time, give them a good blast regularly and they'll thank you for it.

Keep the air bags (suspension ones) clean from grit - they get grit trapped in the folds of the suspension bag and it does abrade eventually. As is testament to the fact that mine have just this morning developed a small leak at off-road height, ^_^. Normal driving doesn't seem to leak but enthusiastic left-hand cornering causes a little bit of air to leak. To be honest at 150k it's about the distance I'd be expecting them to need replacing in the not too distant future.

If you haven't already get an IID tool - they're not the cheapest but there is very little to compare it to as a diagnostics tool and being able to change the car configuration and settings.

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Here she is! Still really enjoying driving something so smooth on my daily commute although I have to admit I'm a bit worried it's going to explode at any moment.

Is a full fluid change including gearbox and transfer something that can be done on the drive? I've had a good poke about for rust and haven't found anything too drastic yet. A bit of very slight surface corrosion on the rear arches that'll be worth sorting before it causes a problem but otherwise it seems fairly straight. It's had new brake pads and all new brake lines as well. The rear window washers appear to be blocked so I'll need to sort that and and the front heated window doesn't work in places. Other than that I can't find any issues but I've got a 3 month warranty with it so was going to book her into a garage for a proper checkup to be sure. 

20220925_211756.jpg

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38 minutes ago, paime said:

Is a full fluid change including gearbox and transfer something that can be done on the drive

Yes but it's a messy job. The engine has two sump plugs, one which is situated above a cross member so oil tends to go everywhere.

Gearbox is doable as well but if I recall it's better done with a diagnostics tool to monitor temperatures (as the level is temperature dependent). Transfer box is fairly simple if I recall.

Although this was based on the 3.6, I think the 4.4 is basically the same.

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3.6 has two plugs on the engine. 4.4 has none!!

When they removed the proper dipstick they replaced it with a tube for sucking the oil out. You can remove this at the sump but not advised as it is not designed to keep coming off.

The first one I sucked the oil out I then took it off to see how much oil was left, pleasantly surprised to only get and egg cup full out  

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1 minute ago, Ed Poore said:

I knew they'd removed dipstick but I'm pretty sure last time I was under the Range Rover it still had the sump plugs on the bottom.

normal_mini%20sump%20plug.jpg

That's the back one isn't it? Possibly just the front one that went. You do not want to undo the back one until the oil is almost completely out (either by suction or sump plug) as it is in an awful place above the sub frame

 

Have a 3.6 and a 4.4 to service in the next week or two so will take a look and report back

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Never worked with an engine that needs it's oil sucked out before! Does that mean it's a relatively easy job to change oil and filters if you don't have to crawl under it to get the sump plugs off?

Had a bit of a concerning rattle when under heavy acceleration today. I'm hoping it's a heat shield.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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