Tyre inflators

[Anderzander]

Can anyone tell me where I could get a short air hose male 1/8” to male 1/4” NPT please?

I’ve become rather fond of My tyre inflator, that fits on my compressor, over the years. Recently I needed something a bit more accurate though - so swapped on a digital gauge. Smashing.

Then I ended up thinking that I would like a clamp on fitting rather than a press on type - so I got one of those - now the flexible pipe seems to have started to leak around the rotating fitting on the end.

So I need a new pipe .. or should I just buy a new one ? 

 

[landroversforever]

My local hydraulic place would knock something like that up for a fiver most likely (everything seems to be a fiver). 

This reminds me, I need to pop down and get my hose replaced as its perishing. 

[Anderzander]

Thanks Ross. 

[Nonimouse]

As an aside, Dirt Lifestyle on You Tube have a couple of very interesting clips on improving 12volt compressors

[Anderzander]

I watched those - not sure how the porting will go, but I really liked the manifold and bypassing all of the wiring. 

[TSD]

I watched as far as removing the pcb to improve reliability, after admitting he didn't know why it was there or what it did.

Sometimes I wonder if Darwin got it wrong and it's all just a lottery.

[muddy]

You can buy a full range of spares from PCL. I would also argue you won't find a much better gauge than the PCL mk 3 or 4.

[Nonimouse]

11 hours ago, TSD said:

I watched as far as removing the pcb to improve reliability, after admitting he didn't know why it was there or what it did.

Sometimes I wonder if Darwin got it wrong and it's all just a lottery.

I must admit I did question that....  

My twin pumper doesn't have a pcb, from new (Tmax 18 years of abuse), it's just switched feed with a fuse

[Anderzander]

I thought his principal was fair -  cheap pcb replaced with a simple set up you’d have on any basic large compressor? 

[TSD]

I have no problem with removing the pcb, if you have reason to think it's going to improve reliability.

But how can you have an opinion if you don't know what the PCB does?

The problem is that even very smart people sometimes do epically stupid things, but dumb people almost never do unexpectedly smart things, so the game is rigged from the start

[Nonimouse]

22 minutes ago, TSD said:

I have no problem with removing the pcb, if you have reason to think it's going to improve reliability.

But how can you have an opinion if you don't know what the PCB does?

The problem is that even very smart people sometimes do epically stupid things, but dumb people almost never do unexpectedly smart things, so the game is rigged from the start

What would the PCP do  in this situation?

[TSD]

I don't know either! I can think of a few possibles, but my guess would be it's an overtemperature shutdown. As you know, overheat a permanent magnet motor once and it's game over. D3 (and I imagine other carswith similar compressors for air suspension) takes note of compressor run and idle times to keep the motor temperature under control, presumably for the same reason.

Might be even more important when you've shut it in a fairly sealed box (as the D3 does also of course), and fitted fat power leads so there's no element of current limiting.

I did quite like the other mods, more or less. My compressor in 1Bex has a similar-ish setup. It's plumbed to a small (1L?) pressure tank and manifold, with pressure switch and blowoff valve. It's remote to the compressor though, under one of the storage lockers, with airline fitting on the rear panel above the number plate. Pretty sure the compressor itself (Some name I've forgotten, from Oz) has a pad air filter as per the video, from the factory. I've never tinkered with the insides though, despite all the powdercoat falling off it still works fine after 16 years, best left alone at this point,  in my opinion 

[Nonimouse]

4 minutes ago, TSD said:

I don't know either! I can think of a few possibles, but my guess would be it's an overtemperature shutdown. As you know, overheat a permanent magnet motor once and it's game over. D3 (and I imagine other carswith similar compressors for air suspension) takes note of compressor run and idle times to keep the motor temperature under control, presumably for the same reason.

Might be even more important when you've shut it in a fairly sealed box (as the D3 does also of course), and fitted fat power leads so there's no element of current limiting.

I did quite like the other mods, more or less. My compressor in 1Bex has a similar-ish setup. It's plumbed to a small (1L?) pressure tank and manifold, with pressure switch and blowoff valve. It's remote to the compressor though, under one of the storage lockers, with airline fitting on the rear panel above the number plate. Pretty sure the compressor itself (Some name I've forgotten, from Oz) has a pad air filter as per the video, from the factory. I've never tinkered with the insides though, despite all the powdercoat falling off it still works fine after 16 years, best left alone at this point,  in my opinion 

D3 was a lesson learnt from L322 - overheating fuel and air pumps were a big problem in the first year or so

My double pumper has a thermal fuse in the control box.  They aren't cheap so I expect the PCP was the cheaper way to go. The Dirt Lifestyle type is a generic version made by T-max for everyone from Vair to Harbour freight