monkey welder Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Hi all - I need to get a new fuel tank for my 1968 2A long wheelbase, but none of the tanks listed online look anything like the leaky one i have. The nearest seems to be a tank from a Series 3 or a Defender, but the rear fixings seem to protrude more and the pipe connections on the top are completely different (see pics). My suspicion is that they may have started fitting later tanks to my model and i may have to get one and adjust the pipe fittings and mounting holes accordingly. If someone could let me know that i am doing the right thing buying a Series 3 tank i would be really grateful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 I've got an original rear tank in the workshop store , not sure if it's 2a station wagon or the general S3 , but will take a pic tomorrow for you . Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 3, 2022 Share Posted September 3, 2022 The general dimensions look the same as the SIII, but the sender and unions are different. You could convert the pipework to fit a SIII pickup pipe (integrated in the sender), but I suspect the SIII sender and SII gauge are incompatible. You could fit a SIII gauge to get around that. Alternatively, you could cut the top panel from that old tank and have it brazed into the top of a new SIII tank to retain all the existing piping and sender. I’d probably go for the latter - it shouldn’t be costly and would be better for originality. if you are only getting a small leak and the tank is structurally sound, just porous in the seams as becomes common with age, you could try a tank lining compound. Frosts sell the POR15 cleaning and lining kit, which has a very good reputation. I intend to do mine with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 3, 2022 Share Posted September 3, 2022 Here's the one I have ...another variation Pick up in the sender and diesel return in the top . If the replacement has the 6 screw fitting for the sender then your early moving coil gauge sender will fit . The pic's of 599234 tank on Britcar look like a bayonet sender fitting though ? As Nick suggests cutting out the old top with all the fittings will keep it original looking - I've just done exactly this for two MOD under seat fill replacement tanks by starting with 2x external fill new tanks - the pattern under seat fill tanks first supplied did not accept the filler/filter tube and the cap did not fit well or tighten down. I welded these . Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey welder Posted September 3, 2022 Author Share Posted September 3, 2022 Thanks Nick and Steve - that helps me get my head around what to do. I've spent too much time already soldering up small pin holes so i want a tank now that i can trust. That's annoying that a S3 sender won't work with a S2 gauge so i think the best route will be to cut out the old bits and stick em in the new tank. I start a tig welding course next week so i guess this can be my first project when i feel confident enough. Steve, you mentioned welding yours up, what type of process did you use? I can mig weld fairly well but have never done it on anything less than 3mm..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 3, 2022 Share Posted September 3, 2022 MIG , 0.8mm wire with a feed of about 1.8m/min , power set accordingly . You'll need it on the hotter end of the range to ensure short runs ( to reduce heat warp ) fuse ok on the start of the next run - starting on top of the end of the section already welded helps . I cooled each weld with a wet towel to try to minimise warp . Clean , clean clean prep is worth the effort . Also all seams were lap with the sides at the edge of the tank - I cut 10mm inside the edge seam so there was two layers on the new tank , the original section was cut along the fusion weld joint and cleaned to the upper layer only . The front edge on mine was cut to the curve going down to front face and the rear across the top was lap jointed just over the top face lap seam ...needless to say once a plan was in place I just did it and forgot to take pic's . I'll try some pics but they are painted and fitted now Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey welder Posted September 4, 2022 Author Share Posted September 4, 2022 Good tip regarding the wet towel, i'll try that. Well, i have all the kit, i guess it's time to start practising on thinner steel and get it done. I like the idea of ending up with all the original fittings, just wondering now whether to buy a joggler and go for a really smooth finish.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 You can MIG or TIG or braze a tank, there's no right answer, they all glue metal together. It's just technique for thin pieces - go very gentle, avoid putting too much heat in, don't just run one long bead as it will all warp and/or blow holes. Urchfab has a pretty good video on thin panel welding: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.