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2016 Range Rover Sport random errors and no start


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I know this is a long shot because it's such a recent vehicle, but here goes.

I'm trying to help out a friend with a 2016 Sport TDV6. Last week he got a 'performance limited' error on the dash but the car kept driving normally, except for the cooling fan that came on and off at random. Even with the engine off and lowish temperature. Exterior temperature was also incorrectly displayed at 3°C instead of around 20°C. I read the fault codes, plenty there but none made much sense apart from 'fan control circuit short to ground' and 'fan control open circuit'. Others were for glow plugs, O2 sensors, fuel pump etc. I could clear most, some returned and others were added, so not much help. The other odd thing was that I could not reset the service interval, because 'conditions not met'. This had been the case after the service a couple of months ago as well but I didn't think much of it at the time.

He made it home, and then was no longer able to start the car. I brought over my Ctek just in case (battery was replaced a few months ago but you never know) and tried to read the fault codes again but this time I couldn't even access the engine ECU. Going through some other systems revealed a CANbus error and some other, seemingly random codes. I had read about problems with the earth points in the front wheel wells so cleaned all of those. They were in pretty good shape, no corrosion or any other signs of poor connections. Checked and cleaned the ones at the battery and in the engine bay as well. No improvement, still no start and no communication with the engine ECU. The dash shows seemingly random faults: parking brake (which luckily was in fact working, so we could move the car!), DSC, TPMS, ...

I really want to avoid taking his car to the stealer, but don't know what else to check. CANbus is a bit out of my league and I'm not about to tear down the dashboard to look for other earth points. Anyone know of similar problems and hopefully a solution?


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Earth points would have been my first conclusion - however, the more I read, the more I thought CANBUS.

Then you confirmed a CAN fault!

If you can access anything on a CAN network (even the OBDC connector), measure the resistance between CAN High & Low with the battery disconnected.  It should read 60 Ohms (or close to that).

You will easily see if the resistance is much higher (indicating a break), much lower (a short) or 120 Ohm, indicating one of the two terminations is disconnected.  If that is the case, try unplugging & re-plugging modules to see if you can get it back to 60 Ohm.  One termination is usually inside the ECU and the second inside the most important / biggest thing on that network (instrument display for example).  My suspicion would be a loose / dirty connector on something.

The seals in the connectors are often only rated waterproof for 3 years - after that, you may get water ingress.

If you find a dodgy connector, unplug it, spray contact cleaner liberally inside, pack it with petrollium jelly and reconnect.  That should fix it long term.  The jelly just keeps the water out.

I have a recurrent problem with the SRS warning light on my RRS.  Every few years I have to repeat the contact cleaner & Petrollium jelly trick. 

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Thanks Simon, that's very useful info. Unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram detailing the connector pins so don't know which pins to use to check resistance. I could unplug and clean the modules that are accessible, like the engine ECU, to start.

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Yellow/black and yellow/brown wires twisted together are what you are looking for.  You should be able to test from the diagnostics socket pin 6 and 14 I think?  Wiring diagrams available online for that age of RR sport, not sure what the protocol is here for linking to other sites but a quick search should bring a copy up.  

I had similar issues when I had left my handbrake ECU disconnected on my Discovery 3 and the lack of CANBUS communication with the dash faults/lack of computer diagnostics initially had me thinking I had a serious issue until I realised what it was.  I'd unplug every connection I could get to on the CANBUS high speed network and clean up as suggested.  The wiring diagram will give you a list of every high speed CAN connection and if you can unplug/replug them if the issue still isn't resolved try testing the CAN wiring one length at a time.

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I went back yesterday, armed with the info in this thread and a wiring diagram I managed to find online. Thanks again for the help!

The second connector I took off seems to be the culprit: full of green corrosion and rust. 😞 Well at least we've found the problem. I should have tried this earlier, but was a bit hesitant to rip things apart. The engine ECU is a snug fit and needs to come out to unplug. Unfortunately, both male and female connectors seem to far gone to fix with cleaning. One of the pins broke off, probably rusted half way through and stuck in the female side when I pulled the connectors apart.

To get the car running again we'll need a new ECU or get the broken pin fixed and ideally a new female connector to splice into the wiring loom. Not looking forward to that, it's a lot of wires and a very little space to work in. Apparently Bosch does offer a repair service for the ECU, the connector seems to be harder to find.

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