monkie Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 All this discussion about magnets has taken us away from the big question... Is the oil black yet? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 13 hours ago, Peaklander said: That’s what @Maveriksaid he does - a few posts further up the thread. It would be if I had some decently strong magnets to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 29, 2022 Author Share Posted September 29, 2022 2 hours ago, monkie said: the big question... Is the oil black yet? We are at roughly 300 miles now and it is finally visible on the stick. If I was paranoid though I’d be worried about the oil at the bottom of the dip not being as dark as that at the top. 😳 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 On 9/29/2022 at 12:23 AM, landroversforever said: Rather than buying the filter guard..... would it not work just as well (and cheaper?) to just put a ring of strong magnets around the outside? That is what the FilterMag is - a row of strong magnets in a curved rubber casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 8 minutes ago, Snagger said: That is what the FilterMag is - a row of strong magnets in a curved rubber casing. But you could do it for way cheaper than the £70ish it seems to be for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 16 hours ago, landroversforever said: But you could do it for way cheaper than the £70ish it seems to be for them. I think I paid around £15 many years ago. A few individual strong magnets spread around the circumference would be cheaper and just as effective. It’s the idea that is so much better than magnetic sump plugs or magnets on the sump as it catches all the rubbish in the disposable filter. That Britpart filter sandwich is stupid - how do they think people will clean the particles off permanent strong magnets inside a cage? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 I would have thought 10 of these would do the trick. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115163640269?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4RlvwTOPQXu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9yXbXNDuQSq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 Three or four would do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 On 9/29/2022 at 8:52 AM, Peaklander said: We are at roughly 300 miles now and it is finally visible on the stick. If I was paranoid though I’d be worried about the oil at the bottom of the dip not being as dark as that at the top. 😳 I wouldn't worry about that, it's probably just dirty water ! Seriously though, that IS a bit odd. What oil did you use BTW ? My oils in the older stuff always turn black in a couple of hundred miles or so, even though I tend to change it at no more than 6k miles (I dont believe in this 20k plus nonsense) But this is probably because it is what you did back in the day, and learned behaviour that I cannot get out of ! For those too young to remember the pre late 70s, early 80s, engine oils did not have the detergents/dispersants in them that modern oils have, and it was very common to find your sump had an inch or so of almost rock hard sludge in the bottom, that had to be almost chiselled out. Removing the sump and cleaning it was a regular maintenance feature. Modern oils, especially diesel oils, are supposed to hold the "dirt" in suspension, hence it turns black quickly after a change. However, it is important not to "over spec" your oil, because very modern engines have very different requirements to older ones. As an example, I have a ten year old Renault Trafic which has a DPF and cat, and the oil spec for this is to Ren 720 and C4, with threats of dire consequences if anything else is used. This does not seem inclined to turn black, even after a few thousand miles. It is slightly darker now, but nowhere near black. I cant help wondering if the sump will have sludge in the bottom ! Must have the chat with the tech peeps at Smith and Allan about this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 I have used Smith & Allan's SHPD 15W-40 for a number of years although the most recent 20 litres is Endura T3 15W-40 which they say is a just re-brand. I think that 'water' is just a thinner film at that part of the dipstick, possibly caused by pulling of the oil by the dipstick end / bulb thing, as it moves up the tube. Not sure but it can't be suspicious as I only drained the sump three weeks ago. I'm a 5/6,000 mile oil & filter change person too. I ran an Audi 2.5TDi / 140bhp to nearly 270,000 miles from the 90,000 it had done in its first three years. What a great car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 8 hours ago, Peaklander said: I have used Smith & Allan's SHPD 15W-40 for a number of years although the most recent 20 litres is Endura T3 15W-40 which they say is a just re-brand. I think that 'water' is just a thinner film at that part of the dipstick, possibly caused by pulling of the oil by the dipstick end / bulb thing, as it moves up the tube. Not sure but it can't be suspicious as I only drained the sump three weeks ago. Thats interesting. ISTR reading something about their "Ultra" range being the new SHPD oil, which I use in my old Astra (260K) and Combo, two old Ford Tractors, and a mini digger, all with no problems. Well, not oil related anyway! Also used it in all the Rover V8s I have had too. A while ago I thought I would upgrade to a fully synthetic 5W40 because it was "better", and on offer, but went back to the mineral oil because the Vauxhalls and the mini digger engines started to burn oil, which they did not before. You could even smell it burning. Changed back, and all back to normal ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 Since my 200tdi rebuild nearly 5 years ago I use this semi synth 10W/40 Fuchs Titan MC, changed at 6000 mile intervals with a new Mahle filter, it goes black but still translucent within a few days, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Ok, so this is what the oil looks like after 500 miles. Less black than I seem to remember at other oil changes, so there may be something cleaner in the cooler and the new pipes. On the trip back (A55 & M56) the oil pressure stayed at 1.5 Bar but most of the time, on other roads, it sits at 2 Bar. So I am happy that all appears to be ok. Once we got back home I had to nip-up the unions at the block end of the new pipes and I hope that's cured a minor leak. We have one more short trip planned; nothing else unless the weather surprises us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Just done a oil change on mine Tim, so I'll have a look after 500 miles, then we can compare results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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