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110 drum to disc

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I'm doing a drum to disc conversion.

All parts in, but I'm having an align and clearance issue with the caliper.

The caliper mounting bracket (FTC3306) needed tweaking/ trimming the internal radial to clear the axle welds. But the caliper is rubbing/ wedged to the disc.

Has anyone had this issue?

Where the mounting brackets meets the caliper need machining to allow the caliper to clear the outside of the disc?


Advise would be greatly appreciated 

Edited by western
part number corrected.
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Disc and calliper alignment is an issue with this conversion, though the nature of the misalignment varies with the choice in replacement parts you make.  If you have replaced the entire hub, stub and shaft system for a later disc brakes spec too, then I suspect the calliper brackets may have dimensional errors, as most seem to be made by Britpart, who just can’t be trusted with anything.  It is not uncommon for people to shave a small amount off the bracket or, if they have other parts solutions, to add bracket spacers.

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Caliper bracket is FTC3306 not 3406

I had to fit a 10mm thick spacer between axle & caliper bracket to get the calipers cenral with disc [mine are FRC7329] later rear disc have a lower centre bell section. so my problem was the bigger bell on my FRC7329 disc which are actually 110 solid front disc but can be used as rear disc. others who have done this conversion have used a 6mm spacer. with the FTC3846 rear discs

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Thanks for the replies. It's sadly nice that others have had issues with the mounting bracket.

I wish my problem could be solved with a spacer. But mine need material taking of taking the caliper out. Which is more difficult to do ie ensuring the face is flat and true.

Why can't britpart make better parts...especially as these mounts aren't cheap

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I used a Discovery brake system on my axles (109 has a similar MGVW as a Discovery), and the bolt lugs on the rear callipers have a significantly different lateral displacement than those for a 110.  I think my solution is quite a common one, using the original axle stubs and early 90/110 front hubs with 90 front or 110 rear discs.  It might be underrated for a 110, so I wouldn’t recommend it to you, but the point is that different callipers and different discs have different offsets.  Ralph’s solution used a spacer, like mine, which would save you removing material from the bracket.  If the skim is small, then that is a good solution, but you don’t want to remove much material as it could significantly weaken the parts.

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  • 1 month later...

When i did both my 110's i used front stubs and hubs td5 discs bolt on brackets and calipers meant to fit the brackets 

The front hubs were machined to fit the rear axle

Only reason i used front stubs and hubs is i had them spare, the disks bolted straight on so i didn't have to mess about drilling and tapping the old hubs to take the disks

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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

What machining did you require I used front hubs but didn't do any machining.


i machined the front stubs so they sat over the rear flange like the oruginal rear ones i had
got my stubs and hubs mixed up lol


Edited by ped
missed a bit out
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