Battery/Starter cable ?

[smallfry]

I need to replace some battery to starter cable on this useless Unimog. Why anyone loves them is beyond me. Everything is a PIA.

Anyway, the cable runs stupidly close to the exhaust downpipe, and there is no real way to re route it, bearing in mind the cab tips.

The cable is hefty at 95mm2 and the fifty year old original is very stiff. It seems most cable you can buy now at "sensible" money, is multi strand flexible stuff.

You can get either PVC or rubber coated, but what will be best ? Most cable suppliers list rubber covered cables for pond, tools, and outdoor use.

What do you guys think ?

[FridgeFreezer]

If it's close to the exhaust I'd sleeve it with something - even just a length of old heater hose - or clamp a little strip of something over the exhaust as a heat shield to knock the worst of it down.

[smallfry]

14 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

If it's close to the exhaust I'd sleeve it with something - even just a length of old heater hose - or clamp a little strip of something over the exhaust as a heat shield to knock the worst of it down.

The original has a woven, probably asbestos sleeve around it next to the downpipe I am going to get something similar or use the left over header binding tape I have, but I am more concerned about the cable insulation material for now.

[TSD]

Welding cable should be rated for (I think) at least 105deg continuous, and higher temp versions are available for a price.

Like Fridge, I'd sleeve it. I bought a metre of this heat sleeve years ago, but since you don't usually need much I've just used the last piece, which I think is the 4th vehicle I've put it on.

[fmmv]

Years back building buses, hypalon sheathed cable was the thing for engine bay wiring. It supposedly was able to resist higher temps. These days, maybe marine stockists? I'd cover whatever you use with high temp sleeving anyway, eg glass fibre,so even if the insulation melts the electricity can't escape  

[miketomcat]

Most marine industry cable is welding cable. You can get a double insulated version which has thicker bicolour insulation.

Mike

[smallfry]

19 hours ago, TSD said:

Welding cable should be rated for (I think) at least 105deg continuous, and higher temp versions are available for a price.

Like Fridge, I'd sleeve it. I bought a metre of this heat sleeve years ago, but since you don't usually need much I've just used the last piece, which I think is the 4th vehicle I've put it on.

I have just bought some "High Temp" welding cable, and had a flash of perspiration for the sleeving ! The stuff they do for Webasto/ Eberspacher exhausts . Supposed to be good for 500 degrees C. Cable runs about 2 1/2 inches from the exhaust downpipe, and its non turbo, so hopefully will be enough.

Now for the next challenge. Soldering the terminals on without melting the PVC jacket  !

[miketomcat]

Crimp the terminals on, buy or borrow a crimper, make a crimp tool for a vice (its only a hexagonal hole in two pieces) or cold chisel it down the length and squash it in on itself. Then heat shrink it.

Mike

[FridgeFreezer]

I got a pretty decent hydraulic crimper from eBay for under 50 quid, they're very affordable these days. That said, the £10 Durite hammer-down one gives very good results too.

And as Mike says - heat shrink it, preferably the glue-lined stuff to keep moisture out of the ends.

[TSD]

After we've had 'crimp vs solder' for the n-th time, can we have a rerun of 'grease or oil for the swivels'. Haven't seen that one for a while

Vaseline on the wire tails before you crimp!

[smallfry]

7 hours ago, TSD said:

Vaseline on the wire tails before you crimp!

Is that so the terminals slip off easier ?

[smallfry]

Sawdust or banana skins for the gearbox ?

I have soldered them now ! But might get one of those crimps for good measure.

Got to get some advesive lined heat shrink sleeving now. Is there some sort of formula to get the correct size ?

[TSD]

Banana skins only for early 2CV I believe?

Heatshrink is sized unshrunk, and the shrink ratio is usually 2:1 or 3:1 (almost always 2:1 for glue lined). The larger size you use, the thicker the 'boot' you end up with (and the easier it is to fit it).

Vaseline keeps air and moisture away from the junction where the two different metals meet, and will stay there for decades if not heated too much. It also tends to stop moisture wicking up the insulation jacket and corroding the copper further up.

[muddy]

After sawdust can we get onto teflon chassis coatings please.

 

You can't mention the 'U' word without pictures, it must be an early square cab?

[smallfry]

Good tip about the Vaseline. I will mask the terminal and the PVC jacket, so it just goes into the join, then apply the heat shrink.

[smallfry]

10 minutes ago, muddy said:

After sawdust can we get onto teflon chassis coatings please.

 

You can't mention the 'U' word without pictures, it must be an early square cab?

Would that be hard or softwood ?

Its a 1972 406. I dont know what the "U" model is. It all works OK, apart from oil smoke, but needs a lot of work on the cab as its battered and rusty.

Its got the HIAB obviously, and rear PTO with three point linkage. Front and rear hydraulics and three way tipping. However, its needs a lot of tidying, but I just don't have the time.

 

[Anderzander]

Gosh I’d love one of those 

[smallfry]

54 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Gosh I’d love one of those 

Not if you have to do any work on it. Everything is a nightmare to get at, unless you are a midget contortionist with a three year old child size hands with superhuman grip. Absolutely everything weighs a LOT and will easily do your back if you are not careful. You would not want to drive it any distance either, although Father in Law used to drive it to Hull from Kent occasionally.

It is a useful thing though. When its working, but I just don't make a lot of use of it.

[Anderzander]

I’m sure you’re right … but it is the classic unimog ! It’s a thing of beauty.

 

I could put a flail mower behind it, use the hiab to lift the round bales that are in a deep ditch, and use the access track however bad it got … not many vehicles could do all of that 😊

[Gazzar]

It would fit in around here, parked in Tescos. 

[elbekko]

I'll give you £500 for it if you're sick of it?

[muddy]

Doesn't look terrible, the cab is probably better than mine. I'd give you a £1000 for it, don't insult the man @elbekko !

 

Softwood man myself, hardwood can baulk the synchros too much in my opinion.

[smallfry]

1 hour ago, elbekko said:

I'll give you £500 for it if you're sick of it?

I couldn't. I would never be able to sleep at night, knowing the hassle and expense it would give you. Besides, the cost of importing it would make it up to £750.

[smallfry]

1 hour ago, muddy said:

Doesn't look terrible, the cab is probably better than mine. I'd give you a £1000 for it, don't insult the man @elbekko !

 

Softwood man myself, hardwood can baulk the synchros too much in my opinion.

I am being asked to sell it at least once a month. Best offer yet has been £4000.

If you look carefully, you will see the broom handle holding the RH door shut. The A post is rotten and will fall off as its only held by the bottom hinge. For now.

Floor is non existent in the rear tipping body, but thats no real problem. I really need to be able to tip the cab, but something will have to be made. I suppose when its running, it can lift its own cab off. 

I am only doing the battery leads because the originals have been cut, when the Caravan Utilising Nomadic TypeS helped themselves to the battery yet again. So they are now too short. Have to make another battery carrier too, as that was destroyed in the process.

[elbekko]

1 hour ago, smallfry said:

I would never be able to sleep at night, knowing the hassle and expense it would give you.

I think I'd survive it. I have a P38, remember?

1 hour ago, smallfry said:

I am being asked to sell it at least once a month. Best offer yet has been £4000.

Even crusty ones seem to be going for more than that.