Junglie Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 Actually...I'm getting there. Really. Engine is back together as you can see in the pics, I'm just trying to work some things out because the engine was second hand and came with no information... Basically, can you please tell me what is supposed to be connected to the marked bits in these pictures? I seem to remember reading in another thread that I can lose this, is that right? Now I know this is fuel, but what goes where? This (orange pipe) was blocked off when the engine came to me, Should it stay bl.ocked or does it need to go somewhere? And finally... is there a diagram somewhere that shows how the alternator and PAS pump actually go back on? (3 drive belts - crank/tensioner/water pump; crank/PAS pump, PAS pump/alternator)Being a complete plum I took everything off without really paying attention to where it went... I've looked in the manuals I have and there are plenty of things telling you about assembly but nothing showing. For example I have a random piece of metal that is obviously an adjuster. But from where I have no idea... Cheers as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 - Pic 1: that is a manifold pressure port, what it connect to will depend on the ancillaries and engine management fitted. The 2 other ports to the left are identical, but blocked off in this particular engine because not needed in the previous install. - Pic 2: crank case ventilation, should connect to a similar port on the RH rocker cover, with an L-shaped tube - Pic 3: throttle body heater, only needed to prevent icing up after a cold start in properly cold circumstances. Not needed in most cases (deleted on mine as well) - Pic 4: fuel pressure regulator, yellow threaded connection goes to the filter and fuel pump (supply side), red is the return connection back to the tank, blue is a vacuum connections and need to go the plenum somewhere. The port in pic 1 will do, but usually there is one in the upper plenum that is closer by. - Pic 5: does ring any bells, looks like another manifold connection. As for the V-belts, this picture shows the most common layout (in a pre-serpentine Land Rover): I feel your pain, I've had the same problem when too much time had passed between taking an engine apart and trying to refit everything. Especially if other things have come up in the time between... Greetz, Filip 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 @Escape Thanks Filip, that pretty well covers it all I think... I also found a massive bracket which suddenly explained where the alternator went (or more accurately, how). In my Pic 2, directly above the crankcase vent there's a mushroom connector pointing straight up. That'd be about right for the vacuum takeoff if I don't use the one on the side? ECU is the original CUX 1 (I think that's what it's called) Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 One last question. In the gearbox pic above there's my shiny new R380 with a stumpy gear lever. Does the knob go straight on the end of that, which seems remarkably short throw, or is there something else I need to get? Cheers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92a Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 The one nearest the bellhousing gets the gear stick bolted to it and the other one is the diff lock / high low and just gets the knob straight on it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 2 minutes ago, 92a said: The one nearest the bellhousing gets the gear stick bolted to it and the other one is the diff lock / high low and just gets the knob straight on it Thanks - I knew which was which just hadn't realised there was an additional gear lever to go on. Presumably the one from my LT77 won't do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92a Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 I’m sure your one will fit , and the lt77 knob will confuse any inexperienced thief as Reverse will be in the wrong place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 25 minutes ago, 92a said: I’m sure your one will fit , and the lt77 knob will confuse any inexperienced thief as Reverse will be in the wrong place Love your thinking! My old Alfasud caught out a joyriding scrote as well - handbrake on the front wheels... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlWorms Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 The orange pipe should go to a Tee, with a restrictor in the orange pipe side. The other (bigger) pipes go to the port in pic 2 and the flame trap on the right side rocker, as already mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 You could use the top connection, but as it sits right above the butterfly it will be prone to pressure fluctuations so probably not ideal. Usually the FPR is connected to a plenum pick up at the rear. I think the top one is used for the distributor vacuum advance bu I don't have a standard RRC nearby to have a look and verify... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 1 hour ago, Escape said: You could use the top connection, but as it sits right above the butterfly it will be prone to pressure fluctuations so probably not ideal. Usually the FPR is connected to a plenum pick up at the rear. I think the top one is used for the distributor vacuum advance bu I don't have a standard RRC nearby to have a look and verify... Ah, that makes a lot of sense, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 On 6/10/2023 at 6:32 PM, Junglie said: I seem to remember reading in another thread that I can lose this, is that right? Yew, you can lose the plate, but plug the two holes that actually go through all the way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 On 6/11/2023 at 9:18 AM, AlWorms said: The orange pipe should go to a Tee, with a restrictor in the orange pipe side. The other (bigger) pipes go to the port in pic 2 and the flame trap on the right side rocker, as already mentioned. Check the plenum connection nipple, as on the later engines it had the 4mm restrictor in the nipple, rather than the tee-piece. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 A few pics of my 3.9 installation that might help you along the way: The vacuum port to the left fed the brake servo on the original Disco 1 fit, the middle one the evap canister, and the third one blanked off. I have them all terminated at the moment following the initial engine run up. You can see that the heater pipes are a different config to yours - mine is a '97 serpentine engine. Also you'll see the fuel pipes are a little different. A general view of the vacuum pipework on the engine LHS - looks like yours is the same: The intake hot spot is fed from this pipe - front LHS of the inlet manifold: I have that blanked off as I'm not using the hotspot, so it'll probly stay as it is.... The fuel lines seen from the rear RHS - yours will be different, but maybe helpful to see the general layout: Notice the hose under the stepper motor, which connects vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator like so: A few days more before stuff starts to get buried behind all the other gubbins, so holler if there's anything more that might be useful. You have the earlier oil pump driven from the distributor, so if not done already, and maybe you know already, there's a tool you can buy to drive the oil pump using an electric drill to circulate fresh oil around the engine. Well worth doing IMHO. Also helps to align the pump drive when you're trying to get the distributor in 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 Thanks Phill - already got all your build threads bookmarked as you're going to hav ehit almost every snag I do... The Dizzy drive tool is on the way. I wasn't going to bother but the more I think of it the better an idea it seems to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 Yeah - the pipework can get a little confusing though. If you whip the rocker covers off and spin the oil pump up (don't lean too heavy on it) you'll know the job's done when the oil comes dripping out of the rocker shafts. A dollop of assembly lube on the dizzy gear as it goes in can be a good idea too, the gear on the end of the camshaft takes quite a lot of load and isn't all that well lubricated, especially on an engine that's been standing for a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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