MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 (edited) Any help on any questions appreciated!! First question.....we have just got out bulkhead back from being blasted and painted (new footwells welded in) and were in the process of fitting it when we realized the parts book shows a packing piece between the chassis mount and the firewall item 8, cant remember this during the destruction of the rusty mess that existed before. Is this packing necessary or is just a shim to help align the bulkhead vertical? if so what is it made of and how thick? should we worry about it or just bolt the bulkhead hard to the mount? Also...should the 2 main firewall mounting bolts be a higher grade of steel eg; high tensile or would just standard mild steel galv bolts be OK? thanks Edited July 16, 2023 by MacStu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 Welcome to the forum. They are indeed shims and would be fitted once the BH, doors and rear body are fitted and aligned correctly. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 21 minutes ago, MacStu said: Any help on any questions appreciated!! First question.....we have just got out bulkhead back from being blasted and painted (new footwells welded in) and were in the process of fitting it when we realized the parts book shows a packing piece between the chassis mount and the firewall item 8, cant remember this during the destruction of the rusty mess that existed before. Is this packing necessary or is just a shim to help align the bulkhead vertical? if so what is it made of and how thick? should we worry about it or just bolt the bulkhead hard to the mount? Looks good that.. Nice colour on the bulkhead! I think i would cut a gasket from a thick gasket paper sheet.. And start from the rear tub when setting it all up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 It's a alloy shim, they are about 1mm thick & usually fitted as required. Parts list shows qty 6 per vehicle so 3 on each side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 There are several Kiwi members on here - @Paul C and @deep are regular contributors , Paul has a 110 build thread including converting to 4.6 V8 Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ped Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 i have mine on the bench as i havent got to putting the doors on yet so i can take pics with measurements if you want later today 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 Shims to adjust the rake of the bulkhead as required. I made mine out of HDPE plastic sheet rather than sandwiching some aluminium between two pieces of steel (bad idea). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 24 minutes ago, Wytze said: Looks good that.. Nice colour on the bulkhead! I think i would cut a gasket from a thick gasket paper sheet.. And start from the rear tub when setting it all up thanks...at this stage probably going to keep the bulk of the body original paint...combination of stone chip and blue! but needed to get the bulkhead re-protected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 19 minutes ago, western said: It's a alloy shim, they are about 1mm thick & usually fitted as required. Parts list shows qty 6 per vehicle so 3 on each side. Thank...kind of figured that was going to be the case....was wondering if alliy was going to be an issue with dissimilar metals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 17 minutes ago, ped said: i have mine on the bench as i havent got to putting the doors on yet so i can take pics with measurements if you want later today That would be great thanks....there looks to be some adjustment from the chassis bracket but need a standard starting point, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 2 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said: Shims to adjust the rake of the bulkhead as required. I made mine out of HDPE plastic sheet rather than sandwiching some aluminium between two pieces of steel (bad idea). yeah though aluminium maybe not the best bet, just need a thickness before bolting it together, also some parts books show a nut plate and some just nuts and bolts, will just go nuts and bolts on this, thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 20 minutes ago, steve b said: There are several Kiwi members on here - @Paul C and @deep are regular contributors , Paul has a 110 build thread including converting to 4.6 V8 Steve Thx will look at them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 33 minutes ago, steve b said: Welcome to the forum. They are indeed shims and would be fitted once the BH, doors and rear body are fitted and aligned correctly. Steve Thx Steve...so no panic about installing now then I guess, might re visit in a few weeks!......also any thoughts on the bolts? just standard hardware and not high tensile ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 Standard 8.8 grade bolts will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 4 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said: Standard 8.8 grade bolts will be fine. Thx....might have to revisit the bolts we purchased as they were just local hardware shop galv bolts may not be up to 8.8 will look tomorrow at the heads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 I use M8 x (length to suit shim pack) screws with a pozi or torx pan head on the inside foot well face. All bodywork fasteners are 8.8, and getting the alignment and door gaps right is worth every minute of effort. The sill should not be bolted to BH foot until the door gap on vertical edges are correct - is it the Station Wagon in your pic that we are talking about? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 1 minute ago, steve b said: I use M8 x (length to suit shim pack) screws with a pozi or torx pan head on the inside foot well face. All bodywork fasteners are 8.8, and getting the alignment and door gaps right is worth every minute of effort. The sill should not be bolted to BH foot until the door gap on vertical edges are correct - is it the Station Wagon in your pic that we are talking about? Steve Yeah as per the photo attached......I guess setting everything up is a few steps away yet! this level of vehicle maintenance is new to me...just helping my son with this project and are starting to enjoy it, enjoying learning about the history of these trucks and the fact they kind of just bolt together is pretty cool...shame about the rust! this one came over from the UK around 1997 and was recently written off here due fresh water flood damage a year ago, if anything the flood just cleaned some of the rust off! anyway it needed a bunch of work to get re certified. I work as a avionic engineer for a airline here so are kind of frustrated by not just being able to order new spares for everything at no cost to me! thanks again 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 I found mine all fitted and lined up without needing the shims, there was enough movement in the boltholes of the brackets. Getting parts from the UK is much more expensive since the covid lock down, it is 60% dearer for freight, I must have spent $20- 30k in freight charges. Had a few small packages disappear, one of my dash trims I am waiting for hasn't moved from the UK in over a month according to the tracking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ped Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 i've replaced most nuts and bolts with a4 stainless so if i do ned to undo stuff in 10yrs it has a chance of coming undone if you use socket head caps in steel then the min grade is 12.9 due to how the head is forged some are 14.9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 20 hours ago, Paul C said: I found mine all fitted and lined up without needing the shims, there was enough movement in the boltholes of the brackets. Getting parts from the UK is much more expensive since the covid lock down, it is 60% dearer for freight, I must have spent $20- 30k in freight charges. Had a few small packages disappear, one of my dash trims I am waiting for hasn't moved from the UK in over a month according to the tracking. Thanks for that Paul, from your pic I have found the shims that would have been installed, may make a couple up out of some non metallic material as temporary fillers until we get to align everything. My son has been buying a few bits from the UK including the rear crossmember which got lost but luckily the supplier sent another. I'm still learning where the best places to get bits and pieces from here in NZ are. Just started looking at engine today (V8) and trying to decide how far to go with that, not really knowing the history makes it a bit tricky to know how far to go before fitting it but it doesnt look in too bad condition.....20k in shipping!!! guess you buy a few 'bits and pieces!' thanks for the reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 Best thing for the engine is a 3.9 upgrade, is a great improvement over the 3.5. Easy enough to swap over a shortblock and use all the existing bits, did mine about 12 years ago, though I swapped the complete engine and transmission, just fitted the original carb manifold instead of the injection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacStu Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 20 minutes ago, Paul C said: Best thing for the engine is a 3.9 upgrade, is a great improvement over the 3.5. Easy enough to swap over a shortblock and use all the existing bits, did mine about 12 years ago, though I swapped the complete engine and transmission, just fitted the original carb manifold instead of the injection. Probably would be good but due my boy not having a lot of spare money we thought at this stage just get it up and running, re certified and then think whats next. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 3.5 is plenty, check the carbs for a restrictor, it frees up a few more ponies, well, for free, by removing them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 1 hour ago, Paul C said: Best thing for the engine is a 3.9 upgrade, is a great improvement over the 3.5 The only thing better than a 3.9 upgrade is a 4.6 upgrade, also bolts in but does need a little more wiring. High-torque / stump puller cam is a good upgrade too whatever the lump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ped Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 Shim pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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