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Excessive brake pedal travel


monkie

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1988 110 with Defender spec 200Tdi fitted, discs on front, drums on rear. Had an MOT on Friday. The tester commented that the pedal travels a bit far on the first go but then the pedal feels firm on the second go. They then said I'm probably used to it.

They were right, I hadn't noticed, but now he's said I do notice it. There are no leaks, the fluid level isn't dropping, I adjusted the rear brakes in the summer (I will double check them). 

Beyond double checking the rear brake adjustment and maybe bleeding the system, is there anything else I should check?

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If the flexi's are rubber and you have the correct pipe clamps it's a worthwhile check - when all 3 are clamped there should be no travel, just the free-play at the top.

Rear shoe adjustment check would be my first thing after the above.

Steve  

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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Tried looking to see if there is any play in the wheelbearings? Not sure on the drum side of things....but with discs they can make the brakes need a couple of presses. First one aligns it all, second one puts the pressure on. 

I haven't thought of this. Don't they check for that in the MOT? Would this manifest itself with the vehicle stationary?

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If the rear shoes are adjusted up ok, and you still have a long pedal travel, it is possible that the shoes have been fitted the wrong way round. If you see my recent posts in a thread about Salisbury axle brake shoes, you will see what I mean. Common problem, and worth a check.

Regards, Diff.

Edited by Diff
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6 hours ago, Diff said:

If the rear shoes are adjusted up ok, and you still have a long pedal travel, it is possible that the shoes have been fitted the wrong way round. If you see my recent posts in a thread about Salisbury axle brake shoes, you will see what I mean. Common problem, and worth a check.

Regards, Diff.

Thank you, I shall have a look. I hadn't even considered this, one of the jobs I hate most on the entire vehicle is replacing brake shoes. They had better be the right way round!

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21 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Is it a tester that's used to land rovers or older vehicles? Parents XC60 and the Mrs' Puma both have very grabby brakes with little to no travel before it does something.

Yes he is. He knows I maintain it. This is a good point, when I first got my 110 I used to take it to a place for an MOT who didn't know anything about Land Rovers. I soon learned my lesson there. They have a nice little series 3 in the yard.

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Alas, I have just been to readjust the rear brakes. There was no real slack in the shoes to take up (I don't really do that much mileage). I will ask the MOT tester about any play in the bearings, he didn't mention anything. Maybe it is time to take the drums off an take a look at the shoes.

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I've got to be honest, I thought my 110s brake were good, I've recently jacked in driving hgvs for a living and started in the log trade, God knows why its killing me, never worked so hard in my life after sitting on my behind for the last 30 years, but I was all loaded up with my first load to deliver, honestly I got 300 yards down my lane to a T junction and it wasn't stopping, you know when you get that sweat on, frightened the life out of me, and I turned round and went home. brakes all done all round now all adjusted up, but like you or your MOT man said I think you do get use to your car what ever it maybe, its only when someone else brings it up that you start to notice, or your overloaded with logs of course 

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I must admit I"m struggling to see how wheel bearings can affect drums  Discs, yes, but drums no. Since the fluid is effectively incompressible I think I would suspect the beginning of master cylinder failure, where the seals aren't quite sealing initially  but then do as pressure builds. But I admit that's a pure guess.

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7 hours ago, fmmv said:

I must admit I"m struggling to see how wheel bearings can affect drums  Discs, yes, but drums no. Since the fluid is effectively incompressible I think I would suspect the beginning of master cylinder failure, where the seals aren't quite sealing initially  but then do as pressure builds. But I admit that's a pure guess.

I'm not sure, but it has the potential still I think. I like the master cylinder idea. 

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On 11/26/2023 at 11:22 AM, steve b said:

If the flexi's are rubber and you have the correct pipe clamps it's a worthwhile check - when all 3 are clamped there should be no travel, just the free-play at the top.

Can you do this test? 

It will give you the Facts as to just what is going on and will show if the M/C is the culprit or rear cylinders. 


 

Steve 

...

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40 minutes ago, steve b said:

Can you do this test? 

It will give you the Facts as to just what is going on and will show if the M/C is the culprit or rear cylinders. 


 

Steve 

...

Yes, this is something I want to do when I get a moment. 

1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

I'm not sure, but it has the potential still I think. I like the master cylinder idea. 

This is also a good thing to check. I replaced the master cylinder in 2019 (it wasn't a blue box part) the fluid in the reservoir is already starting to look dark like seals might be degrading.

I'm going to take a stepwise approach. I think the next thing to do is a fluid change, if nothing else it is good to have fresh fluid. 

Then I'll take the rear drums off and see what's going on in there (pads upside down?). 

I'll report back what I find.

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Presuming there is no G valve or similar involved? Incidentally , fluid darkens as it absorbs water, so it doesn't necessarily mean the seals are going. A fluid change is a good initial idea, might even be trapped air somewhere.

Edited by fmmv
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