Snagger Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 20 hours ago, landroversforever said: Depending on what you're doing.... a 110 could always be turned on some wheel skates. Meh… I think he should go the whole hog and fit a turntable like so many Tokyo garages have! Have it as a lifting turntable, fit a sliding roof and have the trees outside fold out of the way - anything can happen in the next 30 minutes! 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 The 6m is the external length too, so it’s actually closer to 5.7m by the time the wall thickness is taken into account. If I can squeeze a few more inches in I will, but the boundary is a bank that will need supporting and a drain at the bottom. Discussions with the council have flagged a few building standards issues but hopefully nothing insurmountable. I will likely have to remove the windows from the rear wall though, or change the cladding to a non-combustible type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 Today has seen the temporary shed get a floor and a door, so I have started moving stuff across in preparation for the big one coming down. I also re-purposed the old hot tub power supply to give me a couple of sockets in there, for use on the build. Once everything is moved across it’s on with dismantling the big garage. Current plan is roof off first, then cladding/insulation and finally the frame. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 Silly suggestion but do you have enough space to reverse a vehicle long the front of the shed so you can drive in at the gable end (hot tub)? Might give you the headroom for a lift then? You could still keep the double doors on the front because you could drive over the middle of the lift to park a vehicle there normally (unless you fancied sinking it into the slab like an MOT test bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 1 hour ago, Ed Poore said: Silly suggestion but do you have enough space to reverse a vehicle long the front of the shed so you can drive in at the gable end (hot tub)? Might give you the headroom for a lift then? You could still keep the double doors on the front because you could drive over the middle of the lift to park a vehicle there normally (unless you fancied sinking it into the slab like an MOT test bay. Could be a two-poster mounted between the doors then so it’s not in the way of using the doors normally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 Yes I would have space but I won’t be going down the lift route so no benefit to rearranging things like that. It would also mean I couldn’t use the space to the side of the workshop for lean-to storage and garden shed etc. which is the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Retroanaconda Posted July 27 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 27 Busy day, but dismantling is going well. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Good progress! Has the removed wood been processed into good to keep and good for the bin?! And electronically cataloged for the new shed build? Hope the weather stays dry for you! Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 You keep moving well with the project ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 I'm jealous of the old garage, never mind the new one 😕 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 1 hour ago, geoffbeaumont said: I'm jealous of the old garage, never mind the new one 😕 Second that..... Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 29 Author Share Posted July 29 Yes there’s a good pile of reusable bits appearing. Most of the OSB roof deck will go again, and theres a selection of various framing/roofing sections which could find a new purpose in the replacement building. Won’t be much going in the bin with a log burner to feed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 2 Author Share Posted August 2 Planning permission came through so that’s good news. Not so good is exposure to the weather has revealed that the existing slab is not as flat as I had thought. I do not think that it is going to be enough of an issue to be worth digging it up and relaying it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 I wonder how much the industrial self levelling compound stuff is? Normal stuff probably wouldn’t be up to jacks etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 You can do a self levelling screed but would add an inch or two to the height to be of decent strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 @FridgeFreezer used some screed in his garage that's held up well. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 The screed would just be a "special" watery mix of concrete - at least that's the guys who poured my workshop floor used but they were doing an 8" pour straight off. Therefore didn't cost anymore than the necessary volume of concrete mix. The skill bit is in the tamping not to let too much water flow up to the top. They only did it once in 6ft sections as they poured then sprayed a hardener over the top. It's not perfectly flat - probably a 1mm depression in one spot (and that might be down to the paint to be honest). The chaps who poured it actually advised strongly against getting them to powerfloat it because they'd get such a smooth finish it'd be lethal as a workshop floor if oil got on it. They polish it if they're after a marble like finish. It's bad enough as it is with their "rough" finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 May be a trick of photos but it doesn't look very non-flat at all. Could it be a good thing to have a known spot where spills are likely to collect? Supremely jealous of either building as others have said. I have just measured my potential new garage and I wish it had a few more meters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 7 hours ago, miketomcat said: @FridgeFreezer used some screed in his garage that's held up well. Honestly the smooth screed + epoxy floor paint has been worth every penny, makes the place so much smarter, makes sweeping up or wiping up spills easy, stuff rolls across it easily, spills don't stain it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 7 hours ago, miketomcat said: @FridgeFreezer used some screed in his garage that's held up well. Mike I used a self leveling screed in my last garage - can't remember exactly what it was, but it was a product designed specifically for high load areas. Stood up fine to jacks and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 3 Author Share Posted August 3 We discussed the screed in the thread for my last garage (as linked above). To be strong enough for workshop use it would need to be of a thickness where I would be raising the floor height enough to be an issue. It’s not going to be a problem, it’s probably only a 5-10mm dip at its worst and so is flat enough for a workshop floor. The existing slab will get a pressure wash to remove the old loose paint and will then get a coat of new paint once the building is up around it, so should give me a nice finish just like the other one had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 I didn't have that issue - the builders had done such a terrible job of the concrete that I had a lot more than that to make up... In fact I used regular concrete first to get it most of the way there. Can't remember the actual measurements, it's probably on here somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 45 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said: I didn't have that issue - the builders had done such a terrible job of the concrete that I had a lot more than that to make up... In fact I used regular concrete first to get it most of the way there. Can't remember the actual measurements, it's probably on here somewhere. The Sika one is 4-30mm and is rated for forklifts etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 20 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: To be strong enough for workshop use it would need to be of a thickness where I would be raising the floor height enough to be an issue. As Anderzander says, the HD stuff can be pretty thin (mine is only a few mm in most places) and still tough, as long as you prepare the surface first it will stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 We will see how the joining of the new bits onto the existing slab goes. If I can’t get a nice flat joint then I might need something to smooth it off. I’m hoping though that I’ll be able to get something that’s flat enough that with a coat of paint it will be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.